Do you already have that oven, or would an oven that is 240-volt-only be of interest? That would have two hots and a ground.
Upgrading 220V wiring - need professional advice!
- Thread starter Opifex
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
We don't have the oven yet. Everything has been set back due to electrical and other issues. With so many newer ovens with useless screens and gadgets, seems I'd be hard-pressed to find a straight 240 volt double oven.
But I'm not sure what that would solve? Wouldn't the oven chassis still be grounded to the existing neutral?
Last edited:
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
Very interesting. AI is a scary thing.
Almost as scary as electricity!I would think you could connect the wire at the breaker box to a place appropriate to the ground. I don't know if it would need to move to do that.
Standard voltage in Korea is 220. So I would start by checking Samsung or LG units to see if they need a neutral. If there is a 120 volt outlet on the unit, then I would expect you to need a neutral. Otherwise, I see no need for a neutral.
So what kind of device were you thinking of? Like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung...-Duo-in-Stainless-Steel-NE63A6751SS/318200100 ? I am not saying that unit does or does not need a neutral, but is it the form factor you were looking for?
A straight 240 appliance doesn't need a neutral so the "neutral" in the SEU becomes a EGC. Since it originates in the main panel it does not need to be moved there because the neutral (grounded) conductor and the grounding conductor are one in the same at that point.
But good luck in finding one, let alone one that you and the wife will like.
But good luck in finding one, let alone one that you and the wife will like.
We're in our sixth month, kitchen and laundry. Backsplashes are going in right now, then all that's left is cabinet pulls. I did all the framing, plumbing, electrical, appliance installation and painting. I hired out the drywall, tile, cabinets and countertops. I'll put up a few pics later
Alright, the power company has scheduled a temporary shutoff in a few weeks so I can install my GFCI breaker. In the meantime, I have a few loose ends I'm trying to figure out. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
The cabinet manufacturer recommends installing the electrical box near the ground, below the platform for the oven. That's fine with me because there won't be room at the top given the height of the oven. To do this, I will need to push most of the SEU cable back down into the crawl space. My questions are:
1. How should I attach the loose cable to the floor joists so it's secure, neat and tidy?
2. Same question but inside the cabinet, which is 1/2" plywood. I will need to secure the SEU cable to the back of the carcass, so it's out of the way of the sliding cabinet drawer.
3. Finally, what do you recommend for joining the aluminum wire to the copper conduit in the new oven?
The cabinet manufacturer recommends installing the electrical box near the ground, below the platform for the oven. That's fine with me because there won't be room at the top given the height of the oven. To do this, I will need to push most of the SEU cable back down into the crawl space. My questions are:
1. How should I attach the loose cable to the floor joists so it's secure, neat and tidy?
2. Same question but inside the cabinet, which is 1/2" plywood. I will need to secure the SEU cable to the back of the carcass, so it's out of the way of the sliding cabinet drawer.
3. Finally, what do you recommend for joining the aluminum wire to the copper conduit in the new oven?
Why would you have the power company do a temporary shutoff so you can install your 40 amp GFCI breaker?
Just turn off the main breaker if you are concerned about changing a breaker hot.
There are many choices of straps for the cable, see pic below. There are also many choices for connecting aluminum to copper, see pic below. I like to use set screw connectors as the wires do not come into direct contact with each other. Polaris is what we use, they are pricey but the best. The Polaris in the bottom pic is rated 14-4 AWG.
Do yourself a favor and make the junction in a deep 4-11/16" box at the minimum, and use a box clamp made for SEU cable, other designs are not flat and will dig into the cable. Tighten it snug till you can no longer move the cable in the clamp and stop there.
Do yourself a favor and make the junction in a deep 4-11/16" box at the minimum, and use a box clamp made for SEU cable, other designs are not flat and will dig into the cable. Tighten it snug till you can no longer move the cable in the clamp and stop there.
Oh and new ovens come with a metal flexible conduit or FMC (which some electrician's call "Greenfield" just like we call NM cable "Romex") but they don't give you a box connector on the end so you'll need one of those too. I like the one that screws right into the end of the Greenfield (like the Morris one in the pic below). You'll have to know if yours is 1/2" or 3/4". They also come in 90 degree style. The FMC on the new oven will probably have a red plastic bushing inside and some friction tape wrapped around the outside which you can throw away if using the screw in connector.
You got me looking around. I wondered if Wago connectors would work with aluminum wires. They say
So some will, but Menards carries only the cheaper series 221 connectors, but not the others and not the paste. https://www.wagoproducts.com/terminal-block-accessories/series-249/wago-249-130/
I did not follow the part about connecting to copper conduit.
Last edited:
Thanks to you both. My local hardwire store sells the purple wire nuts, but I would strongly prefer to use the Polaris connectors with a bigger box. I hope everything fits, as I have minimal clearance with the cabinet drawer fully closed. We shall see....
If using Polaris connectors, is there any need for anti-oxidant compound?
If using Polaris connectors, is there any need for anti-oxidant compound?
They come with a compound already applied inside which covers both types of metal. It's a translucent brown looking substance similar to what you see on a new circuit breaker.
Oh, as an aside, not to hijack my own thread ( ), I discovered over the weekend that we have only three accessible studs to hang two wall cabinets -- a 33 inch wide cabinet and a 21 inch wide cabinet. I will be hanging the bigger cabinet on two studs, of course, and joining the face frames, but I am still concerned about the weight of the cabinets (which will be holding large plates, cups, etc.) Is this a legitimate concern or do you think 3 studs will be secure enough? I removed our soffits so we can install tall cabinets, but I could, if necessary, screw into the ceiling joists to add additional support. My wife will not let me remove drywall to add blocking, and I don't blame her. Lol.
), I discovered over the weekend that we have only three accessible studs to hang two wall cabinets -- a 33 inch wide cabinet and a 21 inch wide cabinet. I will be hanging the bigger cabinet on two studs, of course, and joining the face frames, but I am still concerned about the weight of the cabinets (which will be holding large plates, cups, etc.) Is this a legitimate concern or do you think 3 studs will be secure enough? I removed our soffits so we can install tall cabinets, but I could, if necessary, screw into the ceiling joists to add additional support. My wife will not let me remove drywall to add blocking, and I don't blame her. Lol.Oh, as an aside, not to hijack my own thread (
That will work fine, once you fasten the two together it's just like one big cabinet attached to 3 studs. Use GRK cabinet screws, not drywall screws which are brittle and can snap, and make sure they are in the cleats, not just the back skin. Make sure you know where the wires and pipes are before screwing them in!
Last edited:
That's good hearing! These are semi-custom KraftMaid cabinets, all plywood construction. Unbelievably, the printed installation instructions that came with the cabinets (and posted on the Kraft Maid website) say to drill 7/32" pilot holes into the studs to mount the wall cabinets using the supplied #9 cabinet screws, which are very similar to GRKs but have a larger head. Looking at the size of the drill bit, I was immediately skeptical, and I'm glad I drilled a test hole because the holes are way too big, and there is ZERO bite from the threads! The screw just falls into the hole.
Similar threads
