Dumb question: is the last measurement for the hub? The point where the horizontal connection (center bend) is made?
Tub floods into shower
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wwhitney
In the Trades
For a 3 connection fitting with a straight path, the nomenclature order is: outlet, straight inlet, side inlet.
So 2x2x1.5 san-tee is 1.5" for the side inlet, for a 1.5" trap arm.
Cheers, Wayne
John Gayewski
In the Trades
It's as water would flow in a pressurized system (kind of). So a 2x2x1.5 would have a 1.5 side inlet, and two 2" openings, as water would take the straight path first.
It can get tricky with odd tees that have many ins and outs.
Heh heh, the Home Depot plumbing guy just talked me out of buying any new drain parts.
His argument is that if the shower pan was filling up, it’s not the unusual plumbing my contractor designed but an obstruction in the main line.
His argument is that if the shower pan was filling up, it’s not the unusual plumbing my contractor designed but an obstruction in the main line.
wwhitney
In the Trades
While that has a good chance of being true, the plumbing in the OP photo is still wrong and needs changing.
Cheers, Wayne
Tuttles Revenge
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Eliminate the combi that goes up to the existing single trap / vent.. Long sweep horizontally away from the wall to the centerline between both fixtures, Long sweep up to a 2x2x2x1.5 fixture cross - 2" to the shower, bush down to 1.5 to the tub. 90 over to the existing vent.
A new wrinkle, as I may have stated earlier, I capped off the tub and disconnected the shower pan drain. So the tub is in service.
I ran one of those consumer grade 25' pipe snakes through the lower waste line that connects to the main iron pipe. No problem getting it through the entire 25'. But tonight after I used the tub and drained it I went downstairs to make sure I had no leaks at the clean out plug, I noticed further down the line there was some moisture and drips soaking into the foundation. I wrapped a piece of paper towel around the pipe and it came back with wet spot. Apparently that plastic pipe has a hole or a crack in it.
So I guess I will be replacing a bit more ABS than I had originally thought.
I ran one of those consumer grade 25' pipe snakes through the lower waste line that connects to the main iron pipe. No problem getting it through the entire 25'. But tonight after I used the tub and drained it I went downstairs to make sure I had no leaks at the clean out plug, I noticed further down the line there was some moisture and drips soaking into the foundation. I wrapped a piece of paper towel around the pipe and it came back with wet spot. Apparently that plastic pipe has a hole or a crack in it.
So I guess I will be replacing a bit more ABS than I had originally thought.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
Yep well I can't say I never filled a leak with glue. evidently when it fills with water due to your stoppage it leaks .
The repair is "wrong" but sometimes a guy cheats a little , There are a few ways to go about it the only proper way is cut out a section and put sound pipe in, any sort of patch isn't legal including glue but sometimes a plumber will consider risks for example a minor drip under house vs inside a wall where it could cause damage . It might not have ever leaked be for but plumber saw the cut and just added a little glue . System probably never was put under a test or inspected after it was re worked in plastic
The repair is "wrong" but sometimes a guy cheats a little , There are a few ways to go about it the only proper way is cut out a section and put sound pipe in, any sort of patch isn't legal including glue but sometimes a plumber will consider risks for example a minor drip under house vs inside a wall where it could cause damage . It might not have ever leaked be for but plumber saw the cut and just added a little glue . System probably never was put under a test or inspected after it was re worked in plastic
I still haven’t found and am not convinced there is any blockage that caused the water to come up into the shower pan. Aside from the poorly designed shared trap/vent configuration. But I keep looking.
Out of curiosity though, I worked a bit of ABS glue into the cut and it seems to be holding. I’m not going to give it another 15 or 20 years like the previous owners did but it’ll do till I can replace the run.
No harm for now.
Out of curiosity though, I worked a bit of ABS glue into the cut and it seems to be holding. I’m not going to give it another 15 or 20 years like the previous owners did but it’ll do till I can replace the run.
No harm for now.
Tuttles Revenge
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The reason the system backs up from tub to shower is because its installed completely wrong. Drain systems are designed in a certain way so that they work even if some parts have problems, they will still generally work. The work shown above has a plethora of issues and should be started over from the 2" where they patched a sawzall gouge to the drain connections to each fixture.
wwhitney
In the Trades
Oops, typo in posts 19 and 20, tub should be on top for compliance with vertical wet venting rules. But shower on top is OK if you think that the horizontal wet venting rules can be used (which I do but that may be controversial, since there's nothing horizontal about the wet vent.)
Also that union trap on the tub isn't useful unless there's a slip joint connection up in the joists that lets you remove the trap and ABS tailpiece. But perhaps you have that.
Cheers, Wayne
P.S. (Edit) If that's all dry fit, and you go to glue it up as is, each pair of hubs is going to end up slightly closer together, maybe 1/4" to 1/2" or more. That's because a dry fit can't seat all the way into the hub, while a solvent weld joint can and should. So for certain locations where the length is critical, you'll have to recut new longer pipes.
Also that union trap on the tub isn't useful unless there's a slip joint connection up in the joists that lets you remove the trap and ABS tailpiece. But perhaps you have that.
Cheers, Wayne
P.S. (Edit) If that's all dry fit, and you go to glue it up as is, each pair of hubs is going to end up slightly closer together, maybe 1/4" to 1/2" or more. That's because a dry fit can't seat all the way into the hub, while a solvent weld joint can and should. So for certain locations where the length is critical, you'll have to recut new longer pipes.
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Despite what code says, I would prefer the shower on top.
The tub can dump a lot of water at once, the shower never can. Also back in the day, both were run with 1.5"
The tub can dump a lot of water at once, the shower never can. Also back in the day, both were run with 1.5"
Wayne, I do have a slip joint connecting to a brass tailpiece. I thought about getting a trap with a clean out but opted for this configuration instead.
Terry, we have a big soaker tub (51/58 gallon) So it is a big dump of water.
I should probably add a pipe support to the shower if not both? I bought some of that plastic strapping but wondered if I should have a stronger pole/strap combo?
Terry, we have a big soaker tub (51/58 gallon) So it is a big dump of water.
I should probably add a pipe support to the shower if not both? I bought some of that plastic strapping but wondered if I should have a stronger pole/strap combo?
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