Treatment suggestions for uranium needed

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WMG

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Hi,

We just had our water re-tested and our uranium levels have gone up since our last test. Previous test was 15.4 ug/L, current test is 77 ug/L. I have attached the report below.

We are on well water, and current treatment system consists of big blue style sediment filter followed by a radon aeration system (RadonAway AIRader).

We are thinking about adding a POU reverse osmosis system. I am looking for recommendations for a good quality system (there seem to be many options out there). I am also curious if there are other possible remediation methods.

Thanks!
Wes
 

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Water Pro

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Hi,

We just had our water re-tested and our uranium levels have gone up since our last test. Previous test was 15.4 ug/L, current test is 77 ug/L. I have attached the report below.

We are on well water, and current treatment system consists of big blue style sediment filter followed by a radon aeration system (RadonAway AIRader).

We are thinking about adding a POU reverse osmosis system. I am looking for recommendations for a good quality system (there seem to be many options out there). I am also curious if there are other possible remediation methods.

Thanks!
Wes
RO would be the preferred method for removing uranium. It's not absorbed through the skin so a POU RO would be sufficient to provide water for drinking and cooking. Avoid big box stores. The best units can be obtained through your local treatment professionals
 

Gsmith22

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I recommend reviewing this thread:
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....a-radium-uranium-and-radon.81450/#post-588877

radium, uranium, and radon are often found together. ask me how I know:) you are apparently already dealing with radon, now you found uranium and my guess is you probably have a radium issue too. Off hand I can't remember, but one of those (radium or uranium) was expensive to test for. So I tested for gross alpha, then the less expensive of the radium or uranium, and then whatever gross alpha isn't being fed by what you tested, the other one is the likely component. Lucky me wound up with nearly 50% gross alpha from radium and 50% gross alpha from uranium. (with some elevated radon, yea!) Your options for uranium are RO or ion exchange. I choose ion exchange for the reasons I list in that thread.

Basically, radium is the heaviest element on the second column at the left hand side of the periodic table of elements. All elements in that column will form positively charged ions in nature (+2 just like magnesium and calcium in the same column). So a regular "water softener" which is really just a cation exchange process will take care of any radium. And take care of it far after magnesium and calcium stop being attracted to the negatively charged ion exchange beads in a cation process (ie your water softener).

At the pHs most typically found in drinking water, uranium is going to form negatively charged molecules (-2 and -4). So to remove uranium from water effectively you need an anion exchange process with positively charged exchange beads (or separately the RO solution) which is the opposite of the water softener and becomes a second tank to run the water through .

I took care of all of these things at the whole house level just inside the foundation wall where the water enters from the well so I can stop accumulation of alpha (and probably beta or gamma from decay) inside the home somewhere that I didn't think about. water hits the cation/water softener first, anion tank next, and then a carbon tank. The carbon tank is dual purpose for me removing my low level radon and cleans up color, taste, etc. from the anion tank. Since you are already removing radon with air, any carbon would just be a taste/color thing. I would also point out, carbon can remove alot of crap that can sneak into water supplies so I also felt it was a nice belt/suspenders approach with little downside. I follow all this with a tank size cartridge particulate filter (One) and pH correction via soda ash injection. anion does lower pH and my well water is already at pH of ~6.5 before the anion tank so something to think about.

this is a nice primer and the basis for a lot of my decisions on going down the exchange process:
route: https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2015-09/documents/rads_treatment_dennis_clifford.pdf
 

Gsmith22

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RO would be the preferred method for removing uranium. It's not absorbed through the skin so a POU RO would be sufficient to provide water for drinking and cooking. Avoid big box stores. The best units can be obtained through your local treatment professionals

I would just point out that both RO and ion exchange are extremely good at removing uranium. I note above why I choose ion exchange. Yes, drinking uranium is THE issue because it decays giving off an alpha particle when it does. Alpha particles cannot penetrate your skin but once inside your body (via drinking) is bad. That being said, if you have ever looked at the potential decay chain/daughter products of uranium, its not so simple as only giving off alpha particles. Beta particles are absolutely included in that chain and my gut says (knowing that humans don't know all there is in nature) there is probably a gamma particle in there somehow too. Beta and gamma go through your skin. You don't want this stuff hanging around and with more than one source of radiation (radium, radon, uranium) I came to the conclusion it was best to remove it from all water entering the house at the point of entry as opposed to allowing it to embed in clothes that are washed, on dishes cleaned, sitting idle in traps/toilets, etc. With radiation, you need to think about long term buildup of exposure and not just short term instantaneous exposure.
 

Gsmith22

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for radium, yes regular softener resin. For uranium you need anion resin.

softeners have negatively charged resin that attracts the positively charged ions. Ca, Mg (both at +2) are the common culprits but a softener is also going to remove other positively charged ions and replace it with a sodium ion in the water. Since sodium is +1, anything of a higher charge is going to be more attracted to the resin than the sodium so all of the +2 ions (second column in the periodic table) are going to kick the sodium ion off and take its place. It has been shown that with increasing atomic mass (moving down 2nd column), you get increasing attraction to the resin so you could have resin that is totally full from a Mg and Ca standpoint but it will keep picking up Ra, Ba, and Sr (likely punting the Ca and Mg back into the water) to pick up the heavier elements. I for one would rather drink some hard water (with Ca and Mg) than some potentially radioactive water (Ra, Ba, Sr) This is happening in everyone's softener whether they realized or intended it.

Same thing happens on the anion side but you tend not to have negatively charged ions. Nature tends to have more negatively charged molecules like carbonates, sulfates, nitrites, etc. so in addition to the uranium in the negatively charged uranium molecules, you are going to end up removing other negatively charged ions and molecules.

same bucket of NaCl is used to regenerate both. Cl- is used to regenerate the cation/softener. Na+ is used to regenerate the anion exchange resin.
 

ditttohead

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There are mixed bed units with anion and cation resins designed to attack the type of water you have but these are not really a good design. I work with several companies that sell a two chamber design where the medias are kept properly separated and the regeneration is shared. By seperating the medias and with a little smart design, the remediation process is actually fairly easy.
 

WMG

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Hi,

Thank you for all the responses. @gsmith22 Your experience has made us think a bit more about how to we might mitigate our issues. Anion exchange sounds a bit more appealing as we are not too excited about bathing in uranium, etc. as you point out. The basic panel we chose does not include radium. We also had our water tested for radon and that problem appears to be completely handled by our radon system (prior to the installation of the system, the level was in the several thousands of pCi/L).

Based on your description of your system and comments from @ditttohead we have a few questions:

To run both the softener and anion exchange are you using only one brine tank containing NaCl? We have some space for these components, but it is always good to simplify if possible.

@ditttohead I suppose the system you describe uses only one brine tank, but two media tanks with one or two control valves?

@gsmith22 Where do you drain your backwash water (we also have a septic system, and prefer not to overload that system)?

To what level does the calcite tank raise the pH ahead of the softener and anion ex tank and how much does the anion ex lower pH? We're at a pH of 7.9 already, is that sufficiently basic or do you think we would need to adjust pH post anion exchange? Have you found that pH fluctuates over time?

Do you see any special considerations that need to be made because we have the radon system? My thinking is that the softener and anion ex systems would go immediately prior to the radon system.

Thanks!
 

Gsmith22

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Just to be clear, RO or ion exchange can both be done at the whole house level when the water supply enters the foundation or you could do RO specifically at a point location (like kitchen sink). I don't think you can do ion exchange at a point location. Due to the buildup of radioactivity, I decided early on I was only going to do a whole house solution. RO uses water to clean water and because I am on a low flowing well and I am on septic, wasting water for the RO and then having the wasted water run out to my septic wasn't going to be an option I considered so RO was immediately out leaving me with only ion exchange. That was my thought process but there are certainly reasons why you may come to a different answer.

I went back and looked - I initially tested for gross alpha and radon (they were both cheap to include). Gross alpha came back 41 piC/l (radon was 1500 piC/l) so I decided to test for uranium because it was cheaper than radium and uranium came back 12 piC/l. There was some sort of math adjusted gross alpha calculator too that the testing agency provided to justify not doing anything for the uranium. But I wanted none of that because the gross alpha was still way too high, clearly some was coming from uranium and likely the rest from radium. because of my low level of radon, i felt I could treat that with carbon but your air tank is a much preferred way of doing that and I would stick with it if you already have it.

Yes, 1 bin full of salt and both the cation and anion exchange tanks draw from the same bin

So I have three tanks that backwash - cation, anion, and carbon. I put a standpipe into my house's DWV system and the three tanks run into this plumbing manifold thing I created that then runs to the standpipe with an air gap so it all gets routed to the septic. I had a thread on here about it - maybe if you search my user name for posts you can find it.

In theory, calcite should bring the water to neutral and then stop but in practice I'm not sure it works that way. I didn't go the calcite tank direction because I didn't want to add back hardness to raise pH after I had just removed it (along with the radium). I like what I got with the soda ash injection. you might be fine without either since you are starting out near pH of 8 and not need any pH adjustment. If I was in your shoes, I might skip it, see how the system works, get a pH meter and test the water at faucets to monitor. If you have pex or cpvc, don't even bother. If you have copper, I would monitor pH to see what if anything needs to be done.

I have found that interior fluctuations in pH are more related to the incoming water pH fluctuation than anything else (at least once the system is over the "new" phase and soda ash injection amount worked out).

You want to feed the anion with soft water so do softener and then anion. Not sure if it matters on the radon air system other than if the air system is also oxidizing anything else (unintentionally like say iron). So it might make sense to have the radon air first bleeding off radon/oxidizing stuff you don't know is there before running through the softener. I would also consider a carbon tank after the anion. I have never run the anion alone but there is anecdotal evidence that anion can mess with water smell, taste, color which is what the carbon is perfect at fixing. Plus carbon cleans up pretty much any other thing dissolved in water that the two ion exchanges don't take care of. I know, its starting to get crazy but this is what happens when you have to be your own water treatment plant. Frankly, I would rather have me in charge of what I am drinking than some bureaucrat (ie Flint, Newark).
 
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