Stumped on Fleck 2510 AIO

[BIGBREW]

My dilemma continues. Back story.

I have peroxide and air injection to combat sulfur. Air injection was taking care of about 90% of it so I added the peroxide and it worked great.

Seal blew, rebuilt the head but it was not back to when it was good. The piston then broke so I rebuilt it again. Still not as good as before the seal blew.

Several phone calls with Pentair and a job offer that I refused they sent me a new head.

Works good one minute, not so good the next, but I'm getting a lot of air in my lines. Not the little bubbles that dissipate, like when you first turn on your water and you have to blow the air out of the system. It never did that pre seal blowing when it worked great but now I get it all the time.

Nothing else has been changed. My next step is replacing the Katalox and Carbon along with the tube in the tank. Media is about 2 years old now. I have all the stuff sitting in the basement to do it.

Am I missing something?

 

[Reach4]

Air with air injections seems not that weird.

See remove air from pipes after AIO filter: https://terrylove.com/forums/index....system-after-air-injection-iron-filter.74384/
#11 and #18.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[BIGBREW]

Weird. I never had air in my lines when the tank was first installed.

 

[Reach4]

I have no experience with these. I am not a pro. My H2S+iron filter only has to deal with milder conditions-- iron 0.390 is mild and H2S fairly subtle in untreated water, but I don't want it.

Is this an AIO system, or micronizer, or what is injecting air? Is the peroxide injected with a peristaltic pump, or what? If peristaltic, what controls the pump-- on/off with the pressure switch, or a flow sensor controls a proportional pump?

Two years is certainly early compared to normal expectations of media life.

Is that a 5810xtr2 breaking pistons? My 5810sxt has not broken a piston, but it could happen. I would think they or somebody could make a more robust piston for replacement, but guess that is not going to happen. I presume the place the piston breaks is plastic, right? Xtr2 is not going to be harder on pistons, but xtr2 could control a proportional injection pump without a separate flow sensor... so just a wild guess.

 

[BIGBREW]

Reach

Once again, you are on it. I appreciate your help as always. Here is a picture of my system. Water inlet to pressure tank, peroxide mixer, is on the right of the green tank on the vertical pex line, sediment filter. The stenner pump works off the switch for the well pump. Air injection with a Fleck 2510 head, Katalox/carbon mix on a two day regen. To the left is my softener and hanging on the wall to the left of the softener is the UV light.

 

[Reach4]

The larger fiberglass tank is natural unpainted. You can shine a bright light thru that to see how the bed expansion is working.

I thought I was going to see a 2510 atop the 10x54 natural tank with the KL+carbon mix.

Did you have that mix originally? I would expect KL to be best with 10 gpm or more backwash. I am not sure how the carbon would affect that. If the KL gets cemented in place, it is a problem.

 

[BIGBREW]

Hmm. That's the only step I haven't taken. I have all the stuff in the basement. Might as well re bed the tank and see.

Actually, I have a carbon/katalox light mix in the basement. Maybe I should not do that again.

Just use the Katalox. Jesus that stuff is expensive.

I miss my city water. It was great and the pressure would rip your skin off. I loved it.

 

[Reach4]

Take a look through https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/katalox-backwash-how-high-lift.99907/ including post 54.

If the backwash is not sufficient early, I think the media might cement together. To get sufficient backwash, you would need the brass DLFC, rather than the cheaper one that does not accept the bigger flow DLFC buttons/washers.

I am not a pro, and I have never seen Katalox Light.

 

[BIGBREW]

I was not sure if the bed lifted when it back washed but it looks like it does. The line that comes into my house is 1" but restricts down to 3/4 to the AIO. The drain line is 1/2"x25'

I could always run 1" to the AIO that's not a big deal to do. The drain out of the AIO is only 1/2" so I don't know if upsizing that to 3/4 would help.

Here's a video of the back wash start.

 

[Reach4]

Backwash video looks good to me. What pressure is the pressure gauge at near the end of the backwash?

Are the program settings on the new valve the same as the old valve?

Is the cap on the piston the same color as the cap on the old piston (filter vs softener)?

 

[BIGBREW]

I don't have a pressure gauge. Yep same settings.

Piston in the AIO? I don't know, haven't pulled it apart.

Going to call Pentair today. Still getting air in my water lines, I never used to get that. I know it's unlikely but could the riser tube be bad? I have a spare!!

 

[Reach4]

I see a pressure gauge at the pressure tank in your photo. That is the one I was thinking of. The point was to see if your backwash is pump-limited.

However a garden hose thread pressure gauge can be useful too... looking for pressure drops during flows, and as a sanity check on the one at the pressure tank/switch.

Ignore my question about the piston cap. I see the 2510aio is built very differently than what I was picturing.