Soft water but still green buildup

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Ifican

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Have softner thats working well, what i still have on faucets only is blue/green (mostly green) buildup. No issues in dishwasher, shower heads, washing machines or tankless. But on kitchen and bath faucets we have this buildup that is driving the wife crazy. I have tried to explain to her that just because we have "soft water" does'nt mean all minerals have been removed just most.

I know there is probably more i can explain and looking to the community for guidance or ways to rid ourselves if possible.

We are on city water that fluctuates from time to time but i do monitor via hach 5b test kit.
 

Reach4

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Where is this build-up? At the aerator in the kitchen? At just the opening in the bath faucet? Consider posting a photo.
 

Ifican

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yes just on the aerator (where ones are present) or on the end of the spout for the bathtub, basically wherever water dries (over time not just splatter and dry). What odd just faucets not shower heads or shower handhelds.
 

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How long did it take the green to accumulate? Aerators for many faucets are cheap and easy to replace. That might last you for another x years.

Tub spouts may or may not be easy to replace. If your tub spout is one with a built-in diverter that dribbles a lot during a shower, an upgrade would not only get rid of the green, but it would improve function.

Have you tried something like CLR to remove the deposits?
 

Ifican

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time, good question it doesnt bother me so much so i dont pay attention to it. The wife on the other hand its to the point it feels like its keeping her up at night. Changing it isnt an issue as you expressed easy enough. I just need to understand the cause so i can explain it to her better or fix it for good. She reads and hears if you have a water softner thats configured correctly you wont ever have buildup again. Now we all know thats not always the case, i just dont have the expertise to explain why to a sufficient enough level.
 

Reach4

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Soft water can leave deposits, but those deposits are usually water-soluble-- they wash off.

Speculation and musing:

Silica is not removed by a softener, and it can cause build-up. Silica is safe in drinking water. It is not blue-green however. That blue-green color is usually copper. That could come from your copper pipes when the pH is low. It could come from the fixture. https://www.sandiego.gov/sites/default/files/legacy/water/pdf/wq14.pdf says the pH of the San Diego water has been as low as 6.5.
 

Ifican

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If that ph was true i would tend to agree, ph is currently 7.x ish, i measuer 7.6 but it should be slightly alkaline regardless. Havent checked that in a while so not sure how long its been. I rarely believe those publication as they say hardness is 15-18 and its currently about 10. (may have been lower as i did 5 drops at a time as was expecting much higher). I guess going to have to clear it and watch how long it takes to build back.
 

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If that ph was true i would tend to agree, ph is currently 7.x ish, i measuer 7.6 but it should be slightly alkaline regardless. Havent checked that in a while so not sure how long its been. I rarely believe those publication as they say hardness is 15-18 and its currently about 10. (may have been lower as i did 5 drops at a time as was expecting much higher). I guess going to have to clear it and watch how long it takes to build back.
It could just be the brass fixture corroding. After enough cleanings, the chrome could come off, exposing the brass.
 

_John_

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Water with low alkalinity or just low mineral content can be corrosive well above pH 7. I've not seen corrosive water in our area with a hardness of 10 gpg though.
 

ditttohead

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Try replacing the damaged components and see if it comes back. Many plumbing fixtures are simply junk. The use of zinc as a cheap filler indtead of brass/copper etc can cause this problem regardless of the water. San Diego water is rarely corrosive but the problem you are describing is very common on older fixtures from lower quality companies ie: house branded parts from the big box home improvement stores. Espcially the green buildup you are referring to, this is usually the zinc dissolving leaving the copper to erode.
 

Ifican

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replacing not a bad idea but really not an option. I am not sure what the kitchen is but it wasnt cheap, the bathrooms are hansgrohe fixtures both sink and shower. Shower no issues but sink there is. Holes are not clogged just build up, i think copper may be playing a part as the discoloration / buildup is the same color that copper connections exposed to the elements turns.
 

ditttohead

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It could also be some issue with the plumbing. A few years back this was common due to de-zincification of the brass pex fittings. It would show up as a green buildup or as leaks throughout the plumbing system. Do you have a recirculating pump on the hot water system? These are notorious for causing copper issues due to the high velocity and hot water... typical flow rate in a hot water system should be limited to <2-3 FPS. Post a picture of the damage if you can, thanks.
 
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Ifican

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20170622_075157.jpg
 

Reach4

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I don't see that as deposits, but rather corrosion of a portion of the device.

I suggest contacting the maker of the device and see if they have a warranty in effect for that device that you purchased. Or maybe they offer a corrosion-resistant version of that aerator retainer piece.

Is that a kitchen sink sprayer (similar to https://secure.img2-fg.wfcdn.com/im...gle+Handle+Pull-Down+Spray+Kitchen+Faucet.jpg ), showerhead or what? That Neoperl aerator cartridge surrounded by the spray holes is something I am not familiar with, but I have quite limited experience in such things.
 
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Ifican

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It is a kitchen sprayer that works the same as the link provided. Assuming it is scale of some kind, what is the best way to clean so i can do that then monitor how long it takes to build back. I tried, several different cleaning products including a clr kitchen and bath and nothing seems to touch it. Just checked one of the bathroom closely and it has dried salt (which came off pretty easy but also has some of the green buildup as shown in the pic).
 

Reach4

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Call the manufacturer and get the replacement part. I suspect the corroded piece unscrews. That would be the easy cure.

If you can unscrew it without buggering it up too much, and if you are dedicated enough, you could maybe could get it replated locally. Pricing is unpredictable, but you could ask. Or maybe you could take it off and clean it with Brasso and an old towel. It's tedious. Maybe soak in CLR or Lime-Away before the Brasso. Then spray clear lacquer over the cleaned-up piece.

If you were looking at a deposit, I would expect a deposit on the plastic pieces too.
 
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Ifican

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Good callouts all the way around, long story short they wanted 35 for a new head and being the frugal bastard i am, i balked at that unless last resort. So found some time today to pull it all apart. Was told it doesnt come apart and needs to be replaced, they lie. The corrosion and thats what it is .was on the aerator which with a little effort and care unscrewed. Once off i could see it was scratches on the end that allowed the metal underneath the finish to corrode and make that greenish color. Found a new aerator in the garage that the local water company gave out a few years ago. After trial and error had to end up using the old internals in the new housing but now works flawlessly and looks great. Thanks for all the great input.
 

Reach4

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Good callouts all the way around, long story short they wanted 35 for a new head and being the frugal bastard i am, i balked at that unless last resort.
Many manufacturers include lifetime warranties to the original purchaser. They vary as to whether they require written receipts.
 

Ifican

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Very true, i have dealt with others and had no issue with stuff like this, however this company Vigo wants proof and thats generally isnt an issue but i couldnt readily find the electronic copy of my reciept. I know i have it but where i put it, no idea currently. Though the replacement part i used i already had on hand, was brand new and with a little trial and error worked perfect. Thanks again for all the guidance.
 
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