Snake for 6" main

[Joseph Skoler]

I just ran to Home Depot and bought a K-400 snake with 75' of 3/8" auger.

Guest used wipes for a whole weekend and clogged the main.

Unfortunately (I know), my main 6" PVC is reduced to 4" cast iron to pass under the public road, and then directly into the septic tank. Somewhere in the 4" is where it got clogged.

Anyway, the K-400 just isn't cutting it (punny?).

I've been looking at reviews for the K-7500 and they are, at best, mixed.

What would be a nice (effective, but not break the bank) snake for 4-6" main pipe?

Thank you!

 

[Reach4]

Hiring a drain cleaner who has the big machine and cutters would not break the bank, and would not break your hand.

Did guest bring her own wipes? ;-)

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Joseph Skoler]

Hiring a drain cleaner who has the big machine and cutters would not break the bank, and would not break your hand.

Did guest bring her own wipes? ;-)

I sure did not provide them (that much I know)!

It is near impossible to find quality professionals where I am, and I don't mind getting my hands dirty (I do mind getting them broken, though).

Are you saying that anything bigger than the K-400 would be truly dangerous (even in a pain-averse, middle aged guy)?

 

[Joseph Skoler]

Any thoughts on a "Speedrooter 92 Pipe Cleaner With 5/8" x 100' Flexicore Cable?

 

[James Henry]

Why don't you just rent one.

 

[John Gayewski]

More importantly your pipe is not installed correctly and 6" pipe is about 2 sizes too big.

You need a cutter that will open up to 6" but you'd probably need to come at it from the 4" direction. A cutter won't go into the pipe and then close to the 4" opening, only vice versa.

 

[Joseph Skoler]

More importantly your pipe is not installed correctly and 6" pipe is about 2 sizes too big.

You need a cutter that will open up to 6" but you'd probably need to come at it from the 4" direction. A cutter won't go into the pipe and then close to the 4" opening, only vice versa.

Is there a way to replace a 20' piece of 4" cast iron under a public road with 6" PVC without tearing up the road?

 

[Joseph Skoler]

The plot thickens (as if it weren't thick enough so far).

After many hours yesterday, I discovered that on the far side of the road, the cast iron turns to Orangeburg and makes a zig-zag turn to move over to where the concrete tank is.

I would like to replace the pipe under the road with 6" PVC (all the way to the tank) so there isn't any reduction in side as the sewage moves forward.

I think that even without replacing the pipe under the road, the Orangeburg probably needs to go.

Any suggestions (removing all the 6" is not an option)?

Like this (top view):

 

[Jeff H Young]

It is what it is.... but drain pipe gets larger downstream not smaller?
I guess extend your 6 inch to the tank and deal with it choking down there . If I remember this project a big house and small cottages ? likely it will be ok choking down to 4 inch .
A little zig zagging if graded properly should be ok . cleanouts are allways welcome at strategic places.

 

[Reach4]

Replace everything after the 4 inch cast iron, and 4-inch PVC should be good IMO. If it makes it thru the 4 inch cast, it should pass easily thru the 4 inch PVC.. If you are into overkill, 4 inch pressure rated pvc is stronger than DWV-only foamcore. Not likely to matter, but if you are going to drive over it with the septic pump truck, I would like the extra strength.

Yes, 6 inch PVC is another degree of overkill, but I am not sure what that would buy you.
Where you splice to the PVC, add a cleanout that lets you clean both ways, including a straight shot thru the cast iron and on to the upstream plastic pipe.
Google "2 way" sewer cleanout

Even better would be to also add a cleanout where you transition from big plastic to cast iron on the house side. But it seems to me that a cleanout that lets you rod upstream on the septic tank side of the road would probably be enough.

 

[Joseph Skoler]

I have listened to the experts here (thank you!) and dug up the far side of the road.

I discovered that the 4" cast iron under the road immediately transitions to Orangeburg, and then to clay that looks like it isn't that old. The clay then goes into the tank. I think the orangeburg was clogged.

I replaced all the orangeburg and clay with 4" PVC, using 45's instead of 90's, making sure the pitch was good (didn't really have a choice, just lucky that the cast is higher than the tank pipe opening).

I previously installed a 2 way cleanout at the end of the 6" PVC close to the cast. That's what I previously used to snake.

I would have very much like to replace the 4" cast with 6", but opening up the road is (way) beyond my pay grade.

Here's some of the gory pics.

 

[Reach4]

If you don't plan to put a cleanout at the 6-inch to cast iron transition, and the pipes are still uncovered, a 2-way cleanout in the middle of the long white PVC could be useful. Or if 1-way cleanout, I would point it back toward the road. That is not the normal direction for a cleanout, but with your reduction in size, I think that is the way you would need to snake.



If you will dig at that 6-inch pvc transaction, an eccentric coupling might be good. Keeps the bottoms of the pipes fairly even. You would need to reduce the slope of the approaching pipe to bring the bottoms in line, rather than the centers. 6 inch can slope at 1/8 inch per foot.

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[John Gayewski]

I think i would dig up the other side of the road and push a 4" pipe though the 6"and bypass all of the 6". 6"pipe is worse and should never be used on a house for sewer. A 4" pipe can handle something like 52 toilets.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I think i would dig up the other side of the road and push a 4" pipe though the 6"and bypass all of the 6". 6"pipe is worse and should never be used on a house for sewer. A 4" pipe can handle something like 52 toilets.

4 inch cast iron under the road 6 inch PVC on other side of road and as far as I can tell no work being done on that side of road.
Joseph been working on this project awhile no idea why the 6 inch pipe was used

 

[Joseph Skoler]

Thanks again guys!

I closed up the hole before reading this (or thinking) about a cleanout on that side of the road. Luckily, I have a 2 way cleanout just on the other side of the road from the tank (i.e., on the house (6") side). I understand now that the change from 4" to 6" means a cleanout from the 4" side might be useful one day.

The house is about 100' back from the road (maybe a little farther), so the idea of sliding 4" PVC up the 6" is way too much for me to tackle.

I decided on 6" before gaining what little understanding I now have about 4" vs. 6" (flow speed and pitch and water vs. solids), so it was (almost entirely) a mistake. The only other aspect was that at the time of design, I thought there would be 3 to 5 additional cottages (each with a kitchen and bathroom) connected to that line, so I convinced myself that bigger was better.

I should have used an eccentric coupling, but didn't.

Being so interested and willing to do so much myself (without actually being a professional at any of these things) has given me such a depth of understanding of how much a pro really needs to know. I try explaining it to people, but it most often fails.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Im not so sure the 6 inch drain is going to hurt nor do i belive you are gaining by having the 6 inch drain , maybe its a fluke whatever stoppage you had . I wouldnt have done it the way you did but lets see how it goes , Im not expecting trouble hope it works well!

 

[Joseph Skoler]

Im not so sure the 6 inch drain is going to hurt nor do i belive you are gaining by having the 6 inch drain , maybe its a fluke whatever stoppage you had . I wouldnt have done it the way you did but lets see how it goes , Im not expecting trouble hope it works well!

Thank you -- that eases my concern!

Was there something other than the 6" pipe what you are referring to when you say you wouldn't have done it the way I did?

 

[Jeff H Young]

No I just didnt think a need to be that large and pipe may not wash itself clear as well