Shallow well pump purchase

lefty12

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
MA
Good day,

I need to replace my irrigation well pump which crapped out. I was looking at the Gould pumps on the internet and am considering the JRS10. I know that prices for everything vary but the range is so large, it gave me pause. I see this pump being offered from about $600 - $1700. I don't want to pay more than I should, but at the same time, I don't want to miss something and not get what I'm expecting. Is there a reason I'm seeing such a discrepancy in pricing for what appears to be the same pump?

Thank you
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
42,132
Reaction score
5,194
Points
113
Location
IL
I don't think the JRS10 is what is commonly called an irrigation pump. It is a jet pump. That does not mean that you can not, or should not, irrigate with a jet pump.

The Goulds JT10 GT10 is called an irrigation pump. No jet, higher gpm, lower pressures.

I have experience with neither. I just wanted to suggest you look into that.

If your crapped out pump was a jet pump, and the symptom was low pressure, try cleaning the jet.
 
Last edited:

lefty12

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
MA
My old pump is gone now. I wasn't able to pull the JT10 up on the internet. I found a J10. Is that similar?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
42,132
Reaction score
5,194
Points
113
Location
IL
Correction... GT10 is a 1 HP irrigation pump.
 

lefty12

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
MA
Thanks very much. These as well look like they can be had from between $700 to $1700+. Either someone is trying to get over or someone is pulling a bait and switch. I've just never seen such a price swing on what appears to be the same product. Is there a price range you would expect to see these in? Like I said, I'm not looking to beat anyone up but by the same token, I'm not looking to be taken for a ride.

I'm not sure how long my probation lasts as a new member but if it seems like I'm slow to respond it's because my posts require approval.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
15,804
Reaction score
1,650
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Some pump manufacturers don't allow their installers to advertise anything lower than the published list price. That is why you have to add to cart to see the price. 1700 would be about right for a list price, but you can get them for 700 if you look around. There are also many other brands of 1HP shallow well jet pumps that you can get for 200-300 bucks that look good to me.
 

lefty12

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
MA
Thank you. I have neighbors that have gould pumps that have been running for decades. I've had a few other brands personally that haven't lasted nearly as long so I was considering the gould. I don't know if this is the correct sub-forum for the topic but would you be willing to suggest other good brands in the lower price range? Thanks.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
15,804
Reaction score
1,650
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Yeah those old pumps were made to last. I am not sure they are not all made in the same factory these days though. Just search for a 1HP Shallow Well Jet Pump and there are many. Here is one I picked quickly because of price. I look for a cast iron pump housing instead of plastic and one that builds a max pressure of at least 70 so it will work with a 40/60 switch. It is not so much the brand of pump but rather how it is controlled that makes it last. Neighbors who have a very lightly used water system or have an extra large pressure tank will have pumps that last longer than heavily used pumps that cycle on and off a lot. Controlling the pump with a Cycle Stop Valve can make even cheap pumps last and deliver strong constant pressure to the house. Jet pumps with Cycle Stop Valves or similar valves as control have been known to last 30-50 years. That is why in all that searching you will not find anyone who offers a Cycle Stop Valve control on their pumps. Get a pump, any pump, and add a PK1A to control it and the pump will last many times longer than normal.


Shallow Well Pump with PK1A.png
 

lefty12

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
MA
Thank you for the info. I've never had much of a problem with cycling, fortunately. My irrigation system was designed in such a way that the pump runs constantly when irrigating. I've only had a problem once that I was able to identify immediatly so I just married two smaller zones. I'll take a look at that pump.

I used that company for my last pump about 5 years ago. They kind of gave me a hard time. The pump arrived damaged initially. I immediately called and they seemed to be suspicious of me. I sent them a bunch of photos and they ultimately sent a replacement, which arrived intact.
But within a week, I noticed it leaking at the shaft. I sent them photos of this leak but they didn't buy it. They said that it must be leaking from a fitting above and dripping down to the shaft. I got the feeling, once again, that they were suspicious. Nevertheless, they were unwilling to address it. Since the pump wasn't cycling, I thought maybe they were right. But as time went on, I became more confident. By that time, a couple of seasons had passed. Ultimately, I believe this caused the bearing to go in the motor as the shaft began to rust.
I believe I paid a little over $600 for that pump. It was a JP20S-CI. Probably overkill for my application. Frankly, I'm not even sure it was the right pump for the application but it seemed very robust. It's since been discontinued.

https://www.waterpumpsdirect.com/Gr...uct&utm_medium=email&utm_source=order_receipt

I'm not saying I wouldn't give them another chance at a lower price point. I guess I'm just thinking out loud.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
Staff member
Messages
15,804
Reaction score
1,650
Points
113
Location
Lubbock, Texas
Website
cyclestopvalves.com
Grundfos usually makes good pumps. But a leaking seal rusts the shaft and washes the grease out of the front motor bearing. It can also get water into the windings. Grundfos should have replaced it. But the seal could have been damaged form running dry, like taking too long to prime or something.

That pump would do 32 GPM at 50 PSI. In the past, the only way to keep a pump like that from cycling on and off was to make every sprinkle zone 32 GPM or more as you did. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve would still let you use 32 GPM zones if you wanted, but would also let you design the sprinkler system more for the yare than the pump by not letting the pump cycle in any size zone down to about 2 GPM.
 

SuperGreg

Member
Messages
109
Reaction score
16
Points
18
Location
Washington
I just purchased a Goulds 10HS05 on Amazon for around $550 when I see it elsewhere for $1400. I think many places are just marking them up almost as much as the well guy does.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
42,132
Reaction score
5,194
Points
113
Location
IL
I just purchased a Goulds 10HS05 on Amazon for around $550 when I see it elsewhere for $1400. I think many places are just marking them up almost as much as the well guy does.
If you got a motor included, there would be more characters in the model number. 10HS05422C would be a submersible, and have a 2-wire 230 volt motor attached.
 
Last edited:

SuperGreg

Member
Messages
109
Reaction score
16
Points
18
Location
Washington

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
42,132
Reaction score
5,194
Points
113
Location
IL
Topping up the water?
That would be for a submersible, and not a jet pump such as the J10S.

You can refill a submersible motor from the bottom. With the motor upside down, remove the end cap and diaphragm, fill with distilled water, and reassemble. Storing in water will also work as long as the water it is stored in doesn't evaporate away. Lol!

You can store a submersible pump/motor in a container full of water. Just keep the container topped off. Or you can top off it off with distilled water when you get ready to use it. Most can be filled fairly easily from the bottom. Place the pump/motor upside down. Take out the screws and remove the end cap and rubber diaphragm. Fill with water and replace the diaphragm and end cap.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks