Replacing toilet flange, finds lead and broken cement
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Let's look at it in another way.
1. If you put a horizontal straight-edge along your planned new floor surface, how far down is your pipe? Is that 3/8 inch?
2. In your pipe, how far down in the pipe does it stay straight?
The purpose of the new concrete/mortar is that it would that it would support the ring from below, and provide something to screw into to hold the flange down.
See https://www.plumbers-supply-co.com/2738338/product/n/sioux-chief-887-gpm and click "Specification sheet" at the bottom.
It looks like the gasket is about 1-7/8 below the bottom of the ring.
1. If you put a horizontal straight-edge along your planned new floor surface, how far down is your pipe? Is that 3/8 inch?
2. In your pipe, how far down in the pipe does it stay straight?
The purpose of the new concrete/mortar is that it would that it would support the ring from below, and provide something to screw into to hold the flange down.
See https://www.plumbers-supply-co.com/2738338/product/n/sioux-chief-887-gpm and click "Specification sheet" at the bottom.
It looks like the gasket is about 1-7/8 below the bottom of the ring.
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The good news is that you don't need to know that right away. If you needed to extend that PushTite, you would saw the flange tail, and glue in a piece of 3-inch PVC pipe to put the gasket at whatever length you want. There is an official write-up to that effect.
If you had space around the outside of your 4 inch pipe, you could also consider an outside compression closet flange. A Code Blue C40420 4 pipe x 2 depth flange for example. https://www.homedepot.com/p/JONES-S...r-Cast-Iron-or-Plastic-Pipe-C40-420/100175841 Those come in 3 and 4 inch height versions too.
You would want to have that flange in hand before pouring concrete/mortar. You would leave space for the flange parts.
The primary difference between concrete and mortar mixes is that the concrete has rocks in it.
Your situation has evolved from a hokey setup to a near-ideal situation.
Appreciation goes to this fine forum, and its' participants.
I like the 887-GPM option. Too many options, and I get in analysis paralysis. I just need to figure out the pouring of cement/mortar around the flange area. I agree, it has evolved from hokey to not-as-hokey. As long as I am doing the work, there is always some potential for hokey.
In order to leave some room around the flange when pouring cement/mortar, what is best way to proceed?
I like the 887-GPM option. Too many options, and I get in analysis paralysis. I just need to figure out the pouring of cement/mortar around the flange area. I agree, it has evolved from hokey to not-as-hokey. As long as I am doing the work, there is always some potential for hokey.
In order to leave some room around the flange when pouring cement/mortar, what is best way to proceed?
John Gayewski
In the Trades
You'd need to remove the pipe and lead/ Oakham from the cast iron hub and insert a properly sized donut, inside of that donut would got a 4" pvc pipe. Inside of the 4"pvc pipe would go a regular 4"inside flange. Sealing anything to the inside of a cast iron pipe might be a losing battle.
The best thing about having a new 4"pvc pipe in place is you can completely finish the floor and the flange glues in after.
The best thing about having a new 4"pvc pipe in place is you can completely finish the floor and the flange glues in after.
How to tie PVC into Cast Iron hub
Is this what I should be doing to my existing hub? Is mine an Oakham joint?
Is this what I should be doing to my existing hub? Is mine an Oakham joint?
I finally got the toilet set and no leaks. Well, had 1 leak at the tank to bowl bolts because they were too loose. Fine now.
I used an air hammer to break up some of the inner cement in order to pour new 80lb bag. I covered the pipe that had the lead sleeve in it with a scrap piece of 4" pvc. I had to remove some material from the pvc to get it to fit over the pipe just to be able to pour the cement. I coated it with oil as a releasing agent, then poured the cement.
I ended up using the pvc adapter and pvc flange even though I bought the Sioux Chief 887-GPM. The 887-GPM was not tall enough. I thought I could remove enough cement for the ring to fit, but no.
I covered the bottom of the pvc flange in silicone tape too to make it airtight and solid fit. I used 5/8 ply over the cement with the adapter top just below the top of the ply.
I used 1/4" tapcon to secure the ply to the cement, and also 1/4" to secure the flange to the ply. This will leave me about 3/8" of room to add the final floor finishing material tbd. I used a fluidmaster better than wax seal without the large foam spacer, but with the one that comes attached to the seal. I cleaned up the bottom of the bowl, set it, and tested for leaks. The tank to bowl bolts were not tight enough, then fixed. No leaks.
It may not be the ideal scenario, but it works without leaking.
I used an air hammer to break up some of the inner cement in order to pour new 80lb bag. I covered the pipe that had the lead sleeve in it with a scrap piece of 4" pvc. I had to remove some material from the pvc to get it to fit over the pipe just to be able to pour the cement. I coated it with oil as a releasing agent, then poured the cement.
I ended up using the pvc adapter and pvc flange even though I bought the Sioux Chief 887-GPM. The 887-GPM was not tall enough. I thought I could remove enough cement for the ring to fit, but no.
I covered the bottom of the pvc flange in silicone tape too to make it airtight and solid fit. I used 5/8 ply over the cement with the adapter top just below the top of the ply.
I used 1/4" tapcon to secure the ply to the cement, and also 1/4" to secure the flange to the ply. This will leave me about 3/8" of room to add the final floor finishing material tbd. I used a fluidmaster better than wax seal without the large foam spacer, but with the one that comes attached to the seal. I cleaned up the bottom of the bowl, set it, and tested for leaks. The tank to bowl bolts were not tight enough, then fixed. No leaks.
It may not be the ideal scenario, but it works without leaking.
