Replacing 2" Kitchen P-Trap with 1 1/2"

[Spta97]

Many years ago I remodeled my kitchen and made the mistake of using a 2" P-Trap (matching the schedule 40 - 2" stub out) as I was not aware I should have used a 1 1/2" trap.

I had a blockage in the wall / main drain pipe which I had to snake out the other day (not related to the p-trap). Although I never had any real issues with the 2" P-Trap (other than a slight seep at the connection where the water column is), since I've already taken it apart I figure I should do it correctly and replace with the correct size.

My plan is to cut the solvent welded elbow out (see pic) with the threads and install a solvent welded reducer (from 2" to 1 1/2").

My questions/plan are

- Should I get a regular reducer (2" to 1 1/2") or something with threads (i.e., Marvel Connector)?
- I was planning on purchasing a "heavy duty" p-trap as I don't want something flimsy since we store/remove stuff under the sink This one says it reduces to 1 1/4" via washer but you don't have to use it. Is this a good one to get?
- I plan to cut the stub out pipe with this PVC Tubing Cutter because it is old and I'm concerned a ratcheting cutter will crack it. I also want to get a strait cut which is why I'm avoiding my sawsall or a hacksaw.
- I also got this Chamfer Tool for prepping the stub out (didn't want to spend that much as this will likely be the only time I use it)


Any advice on the above or my plan in general? Should I just leave the 2" p-trap?

Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

- Should I get a regular reducer (2" to 1 1/2") or something with threads (i.e., Marvel Connector)?

I think you want Charlotte 104W https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...male-Trap-Adapter-PVC-00104W-1000HD/205801116
I think its hub glues onto 2 inch PVC and accepts a 1-1/2 inch slip joint trap.

- I plan to cut the stub out pipe with this PVC Tubing Cutter because it is old and I'm concerned a ratcheting cutter will crack it. I also want to get a strait cut which is why I'm avoiding my sawsall or a hacksaw.

I was initially thinking I did not like that, but it may be fine. I guess you were planning the cut pretty far from the wall to give you more room to swing that cutter around.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Folding-PVC-Saw-17PL0219/304217593 would be good if buying a saw for the purpose, but another saw will do the job. A cable saw would work too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-PVC-Cable-Saw-for-1-2-in-4-in-Pipes-80-517-111/304583909 For a PVC pipe end that will have a hub glued on, you don't need a perfectly square end. Close is OK. You could also use the saw that came with your miter box, if you have enough room.

If you did get cut the pipe way out of square, a bit of time with a finer rasp or course file would adjust that.

If you run a strip of paper around the pipe, and use that as a guide to draw a line with a sharpie, you will be able to do a good job with a hacksaw or your jigsaw with the right blade. I would probably use a hacksaw blade or other blade with 10 to 21 teeth per inch in my jigsaw, with the saw set for more orbital if I were using an 18 to 21 tpi blade. More orbital speeds up the cut to compensate for using a higher TPI blade.

- I also got this Chamfer Tool for prepping the stub out (didn't want to spend that much as this will likely be the only time I use it)

Way overkill. A little sandpaper would do the job nicely. Grit is not critical, but 80 to 120 seems about right to me. 220 would work, but would take an extra minute maybe. This is just taking the burr off, and does not require a significant or precise taper.

 

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[Sylvan]

Many years ago I remodeled my kitchen and made the mistake of using a 2" P-Trap (matching the schedule 40 - 2" stub out) as I was not aware I should have used a 1 1/2" trap.

I had a blockage in the wall / main drain pipe which I had to snake out the other day (not related to the p-trap). Although I never had any real issues with the 2" P-Trap (other than a slight seep at the connection where the water column is), since I've already taken it apart I figure I should do it correctly and replace with the correct size.

My plan is to cut the solvent welded elbow out (see pic) with the threads and install a solvent welded reducer (from 2" to 1 1/2").

My questions/plan are

- Should I get a regular reducer (2" to 1 1/2") or something with threads (i.e., Marvel Connector)?
- I was planning on purchasing a "heavy duty" p-trap as I don't want something flimsy since we store/remove stuff under the sink This one says it reduces to 1 1/4" via washer but you don't have to use it. Is this a good one to get?
- I plan to cut the stub out pipe with this PVC Tubing Cutter because it is old and I'm concerned a ratcheting cutter will crack it. I also want to get a strait cut which is why I'm avoiding my sawsall or a hacksaw.
- I also got this Chamfer Tool for prepping the stub out (didn't want to spend that much as this will likely be the only time I use it)


Any advice on the above or my plan in general? Should I just leave the 2" p-trap?

Thanks!

NYC Always required a 2" P-trap for the kitchen and rightfully so.

In 2022, they decided to lower the standards under pressure from the developers to cut costs and safety and adopted the IPC code.

My company still used 2" waste for kitchen, basins, and bathtubs.

Kitchen waste usually contains a large amount of grease, so jetting or rodding a 11/2 line is difficult.

I would stay with the 2"

 

[Reach4]

If concerned with rodding, and assuming there is enough room, Spta97 could put a wye at the wall, and use the extra port to host a cleanout. I would probably not do that, however, figuring that the 1.5 inch inlet to the trap adapter would be sufficient access.

But also, I would tend to leave what is there there, and to consider making a change later if better rodding access becomes important later.