Replace Zurn Wilkins 975XL with new Cu Lines - How?

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TimJ2021

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Hi--

I'd like to replace a 975XL. It was previously connected using galvanized lines with two unions on both sides, eventually connecting to 1-1/4 PVC for irrigation.

Yesterday I tried replacing the galvanized with copper lines. I wanted to remove any steel in the flow to prevent future corrosion. So, from the source the path went Copper-> Brass ball valve -> Galvanized nipple -> union->nipple ->elbow->Backflow Preventer->elbow ->Galvanized nipple ->union=>Brass ball valve -> Copper pipe -> PVC inlet. What a mess! Many points for leakage failure and it is difficult to get the unions to seal.

Does anybody have ideas for an alternative connection path?

I'd like to not have to move the PVC inlet since it goes immediately under a concrete walkway.

Help!

Thanks
Tim
 

John Gayewski

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Hi--

I'd like to replace a 975XL. It was previously connected using galvanized lines with two unions on both sides, eventually connecting to 1-1/4 PVC for irrigation.

Yesterday I tried replacing the galvanized with copper lines. I wanted to remove any steel in the flow to prevent future corrosion. So, from the source the path went Copper-> Brass ball valve -> Galvanized nipple -> union->nipple ->elbow->Backflow Preventer->elbow ->Galvanized nipple ->union=>Brass ball valve -> Copper pipe -> PVC inlet. What a mess! Many points for leakage failure and it is difficult to get the unions to seal.

Does anybody have ideas for an alternative connection path?

I'd like to not have to move the PVC inlet since it goes immediately under a concrete walkway.

Help!

Thanks
Tim
Picture please. I know you described it, but it's hard to visualize it spatially.
 

TimJ2021

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Here is the disaster. Any suggestions on how to do this better? Note the PVC at the bottom that I'd like to tie into without great mechanical stress.
 

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John Gayewski

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You could use a pvb. The valve is a 90 and would get rid of some of that.


Pressure vacuum breaker.
 

TimJ2021

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Yes, I thought of that, but I think my area requires DCVA type assemblies. I'm not 100% sure, though, and don't know how strict they would be about that.
 

stevenlee

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Hi--

I'd like to replace a 975XL. It was previously connected using galvanized lines with two unions on both sides, eventually connecting to 1-1/4 PVC for irrigation.

Yesterday I tried replacing the galvanized with copper lines. I wanted to remove any steel in the flow to prevent future corrosion. So, from the source the path went Copper-> Brass ball valve -> Galvanized nipple -> union->nipple ->elbow->Backflow Preventer->elbow ->Galvanized nipple ->union=>Brass ball valve -> Copper pipe -> PVC inlet. What a mess! Many points for leakage failure and it is difficult to get the unions to seal.

Does anybody have ideas for an alternative connection path?

I'd like to not have to move the PVC inlet since it goes immediately under a concrete walkway.

Help!
케이케이데이 할인코드
Thanks
Tim
I've got a customer with a leaking Wilkins 975 XL 3/4" backflow. It is a fairly steady trickle out the dump port on the bottom. I looked at it yesterday (had told him to turn it off at the front-end shut off valve). I turned it back on, and sure enough it's leaking. I turned it off, a bunch of water dumped out all at once, I turned it back on and now no leak. Hooray I fixed it. I ran one zone for a very short period, turn it off, still no leak so I left. This morning the customer called me; his system ran thru the full cycle early this morning, and the steady trickle is back.

I've searched the web and can't find any 'exploded parts drawings". Any thoughts besides calling a plumber or replacing it?
 

John Gayewski

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I've got a customer with a leaking Wilkins 975 XL 3/4" backflow. It is a fairly steady trickle out the dump port on the bottom. I looked at it yesterday (had told him to turn it off at the front-end shut off valve). I turned it back on, and sure enough it's leaking. I turned it off, a bunch of water dumped out all at once, I turned it back on and now no leak. Hooray I fixed it. I ran one zone for a very short period, turn it off, still no leak so I left. This morning the customer called me; his system ran thru the full cycle early this morning, and the steady trickle is back.

I've searched the web and can't find any 'exploded parts drawings". Any thoughts besides calling a plumber or replacing it?
A rebuild kit is expensive. Call a plumber as you need a license to work on these in most states.
 
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