Repairing Broken Drain Vent

Users who are viewing this thread

Chris Hudson

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, TX
Hi Terry Love community,

I have been smelling intermittent sewer smell in our downstairs bathroom for several weeks. I have tried all the recommended stuff. Finally I took the whole vanity apart and looked into the drain with a flashlight and discovered the tee connection for the sink drain that connect to the sewer line and the vent is completely sheared below the elbow for the stub out. The crack is visible in the first pic, but it was hard to get the crack very clear.
I am assuming this is the culprit. I am glad I found the problem on my own but wish it had been something simpler.
My question is if this is something I could do on my own or does this need to be taken care of by a licensed plumber? I am guessing the drywall needs to be cut away and the section of pipe replaced. I have done lots of home projects but nothing quite like this.
Any advice from the pros would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Chris

IMG_1411.jpg
IMG_1412.jpg
 
Last edited:

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Are you sure that's a crack going all the way through? Or perhaps a seam where the pipes join?
If it's really a crack in the fitting, on the high side for the vent or below where the water passes?
 

Chris Hudson

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, TX
Hey Terry, thanks for responding. So I can grab the stub out and pull back and forth and the upper pipe moves back and forth while the lower pipe stays still. I think the pipe is completely sheared.
 

Chris Hudson

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, TX
The crack location does look like a seam where pipes are joined and on the low side of the fitting. I am trying not to think of how long this has been cracked and water has been passing through the crack into the wall!
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
If the Seattle area I have seen that after an earthquake.
You might need to open the wall and replace the santee there. If you can't fit the new pipe in, a shield coupling works. You can fold the rubber part back, insert the pipe, flip the rubber back over the pipe, slide the shielding back over and snug with a 5/16" wrench. Some of those 6 way screwdrivers have and end like that.

mission_bandseal.jpg
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,797
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
My question is if this is something I could do on my own or does this need to be taken care of by a licensed plumber? I am guessing the drywall needs to be cut away and the section of pipe replaced.
In a hurry? Plumber would fix this in less than 1/2 day, but will not close the wall back up.

Not in a hurry? You can do it, tho you might take a week or two depending.

Cable saw or multitool saw I think would be the way to cut out the bad parts. Shielded (banded) rubber couplings would be the way to insert the new section.
 

Chris Hudson

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, TX
Awesome, thanks Terry! I think this seems simple enough to do on my own. I am hoping there no other cracks elsewhere. My guess is this a result of Central Texas soil movement, we have some foundation movement on the property. Lots of clay in the area.
 

Chris Hudson

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, TX
In a hurry? Plumber would fix this in less than 1/2 day, but will not close the wall back up.

Not in a hurry? You can do it, tho you might take a week or two depending.

Cable saw or multitool saw I think would be the way to cut out the bad parts. Shielded (banded) rubber couplings would be the way to insert the new section.
Thanks for the response, this is very helpful! One other question, the banded couplings will still work even if the pipe and tee couplings are different sizes? I assume it is intended to be attached / glued to the end of the pipe. Or do I need to buy a tee that is the same diameter as the pipes for purpose of the coupling?
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
PVC and ABS have the same outside dimension.
Couplings come in plastic sizing, copper and some types of cast iron.
You're working with plastic, so it's the couplings meant for that.

PL for plastic
1.5" PVC is about 2" OD
2.0" PVC is about 2.5" OD

mission-cp200.jpg
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks