Relocate sediment trap BEFORE flex gas line

Niccolo

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Facinating! I'm interpreting the picture example to mean that all sediment traps now be horizontal looking like a long pipe. "Gas supply inlet" is a dead giveaway. Picture should really be flipped on its side, ha! ha!

Here's a pic of what I ended up with. Had to change the drain valve anyway. I know, it's amateur hour, but feel free to comment. Don't worry, Im a big boy View attachment 61276

I'm still curious what others think of your sediment trap layout. Logically, it seems to me more likely to effectively trap sediment than the standard design, but I have no professional expertise on this topic whatsoever.
 

Phog

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I'm still curious what others think of your sediment trap layout. Logically, it seems to me more likely to effectively trap sediment than the standard design, but I have no professional expertise on this topic whatsoever.

I have only ever seen them with the gas coming in from the top; in DIYER39's picture the inlet is from the side, which I have not seen. However (in my completely nonprofessional opinion) I also can't see why this wouldn't work just as well. Either way, the way I've heard it told, sediment traps are something that was more relevant back in older times when illuminating gas or town gas still had humidity and moisture in it. The moisture would collect into droplets, make the inside of your pipes flake rust off, and the drops/flakes could get into orifices etc. These days the gas is all made completely dry before it goes into the pipes so drip legs / sediment traps aren't needed anymore. But the custom of having them was written into code many years ago & remains there. It makes sense to me, but I'm not a professional. Maybe one of the pros here can confirm this story?
 

DIYER39

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I'm still curious what others think of your sediment trap layout. Logically, it seems to me more likely to effectively trap sediment than the standard design, but I have no professional expertise on this topic whatsoever.
I have only ever seen them with the gas coming in from the top; in DIYER39's picture the inlet is from the side, which I have not seen. However (in my completely nonprofessional opinion) I also can't see why this wouldn't work just as well. Either way, the way I've heard it told, sediment traps are something that was more relevant back in older times when illuminating gas or town gas still had humidity and moisture in it. The moisture would collect into droplets, make the inside of your pipes flake rust off, and the drops/flakes could get into orifices etc. These days the gas is all made completely dry before it goes into the pipes so drip legs / sediment traps aren't needed anymore. But the custom of having them was written into code many years ago & remains there. It makes sense to me, but I'm not a professional. Maybe one of the pros here can confirm this story?

I think the code diagram is a little funky. If I were to follow it perfectly, I guess I could use an elbow and flow gas into the top and out of the side to the water heater. Have not seen it done that way before.

I think this is kind of a grey area for plumbers and from what I've read, most inspectors just want to make sure the homeowner didn't create a bomb. But what do I know. Can any pros comment?
 

Niccolo

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I have only ever seen them with the gas coming in from the top; in DIYER39's picture the inlet is from the side, which I have not seen. However (in my completely nonprofessional opinion) I also can't see why this wouldn't work just as well. Either way, the way I've heard it told, sediment traps are something that was more relevant back in older times when illuminating gas or town gas still had humidity and moisture in it. The moisture would collect into droplets, make the inside of your pipes flake rust off, and the drops/flakes could get into orifices etc. These days the gas is all made completely dry before it goes into the pipes so drip legs / sediment traps aren't needed anymore. But the custom of having them was written into code many years ago & remains there. It makes sense to me, but I'm not a professional. Maybe one of the pros here can confirm this story?

It's interesting that standard practice is *never* to empty sediment traps during the life of a water heater or other appliance, the implication being that very little is expected to build up in them. That makes me think they're more to catch some random debris that ends up in the pipes, say from pipe fitting, than ongoing debris from either dirty gas or flaking pipes, which would build up over time.

And yes, one shouldn't be encouraging a homeowner to empty a sediment trap, because of risks associated with reestablishing a gas seal. But it could be standard advice to have a professional empty them every X years, just like it's standard advice to check the water heater sacrificial anode and replace it if it's more than 50 percent deteriorated (and yes, I'm aware that advice is rarely actually followed, and lots of water heaters are installed in a way where the anode can't be removed/replaced without uninstalling the heater, because there isn't enough space above them).
 
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DIYER39

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This morning I spoke with a very nice gentleman from the IAPMO and I wanted to pass along some information. He is an expert in the field and is also very familiar with southern California. He was very helpful and willing to explain everything in detail, but Ill try to sum things up below. Basically, he stated:

Sediment traps do in fact have to be placed before the flex line now.
There are a few different ways to use the Tee fitting that are indeed acceptable and comply with code.
Gas coming in vertically to the top of the Tee fitting would technically be more effective, but not necessarily the only way to do it.
He pointed out that southern California does not have much sediment at all and cleaning would not be necessary :)

I was more curious as to why this information is not practiced or known by many people online. Some of my conversation is probably best kept private, but he did explain the wide range of contractors and companies that install water heaters who are not actual plumbers.
 

Kreemoweet

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None of it makes any sense. Sediment traps that are incorporated into the appliance obviously will be "after " the
flex line. And what about that long list of exempted appliances? How is it they do not need traps, but water
heaters do? The only "sediment" I've ever seen in a gas line is the flaking cheap black paint from the
"black iron pipe" that Lowe's sells.
 

auberon

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Bumping this because in 2026 this is still one of the top search results for where the sediment trap should be.

I was scratching my head reading the California Plumbing Code trying to figure out where it has the requirement that the sediment trap be before the flex connector. After going back and looking at older versions of the CPC, this was in the 2016 and 2019 versions, but removed in the 2022 and 2025 versions.

Here's what the 2025 CPC states:

1212.9 Sediment Trap. Where a sediment trap is not incorporated as a part of the appliance, a sediment trap shall be installed downstream of the appliance shutoff valve as close to the inlet of the appliance as practical at the time of appliance installation. The sediment trap shall be either a tee fitting with a capped nipple in the bottom outlet, as illustrated in Figure 1212.9, or another device recognized as an effective sediment trap. Illuminating appliances, gas ranges, clothes dryers, decorative appliances for installation in vented fireplaces, gas fireplaces, and outdoor cooking appliances shall not be required to be so equipped. [NFPA 54:9.6.8]

I agree with others that in reality it doesn't really matter if it's before or after the flex connector. But by my reading, current CPC says the sediment trap should be after the flex connector, unless that's not practical, since after the flex connector is closer to the inlet of the appliance.
 
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Fitter30

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Bumping this because in 2026 this is still one of the top search results for where the sediment trap should be.

I was scratching my head reading the California Plumbing Code trying to figure out where it has the requirement that the sediment trap be before the flex connector. After going back and looking at older versions of the CPC, this was in the 2016 and 2019 versions, but removed in the 2022 and 2025 versions.

Here's what the 2025 CPC states:



I agree with others that in reality it doesn't really matter if it's before or after the flex connector. But by my reading, current CPC says the sediment trap should be after the flex connector, unless that's not practical, since after the flex connector is closer to the inlet of the appliance.
Trap to be piped correctly the gas flow has to enter the tee on top of the run (straight thru) and the bull ( side outlet) feeds the appliance. Bottom of run has a 3-4" nipple and cap. The run is vertical.
 

Jeff H Young

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Bumping this because in 2026 this is still one of the top search results for where the sediment trap should be.

I was scratching my head reading the California Plumbing Code trying to figure out where it has the requirement that the sediment trap be before the flex connector. After going back and looking at older versions of the CPC, this was in the 2016 and 2019 versions, but removed in the 2022 and 2025 versions.

Here's what the 2025 CPC states:



I agree with others that in reality it doesn't really matter if it's before or after the flex connector. But by my reading, current CPC says the sediment trap should be after the flex connector, unless that's not practical, since after the flex connector is closer to the inlet of the appliance.
I spent way too much time looking all this up over several years and arguing about it but there was time Ca code did require the sediment trap upstream of flex argued with people over it, i put it at the control valve i know the changes were made and Ill just deal with it if I ever get called on my installations . most plumbers dont know code but we all think we do LOL kinda minor stuff actually took me hours to figure it all out.
 

Fitter30

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Don't know why it would matter as long as it piped correctly. Support should come from a mechanical device not the drip leg to floor if needed.
 
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