Recommendations for New Water Softener

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JD3263

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Hello,

I plan on replacing my existing water softener and could use some help with recommended equipment for my scenario. We have rust colored staining on shower walls, toilets, etc. I'm looking for advice on a water softener as well as any filters, etc. to help address other issues.

3 Full Bathrooms, 2 Adults, 2 Kids
Submerged Pump - Private Well in Southwest Florida

Results from recent water test:
pH - 7.16
TDS - 200 PPM
Hardness - 171 PPM
Iron - 0.5 PPM
Manganese - Not Detected
Copper - Not Detected
Nitrates - Not Detected
Sulfides - Not Detected
Tannins - 0.5 PPM

Please let me know if additional information is required.

Thank you!
 

All Fug Duck

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How do the inside of the toilet tanks look, any floating debris or slime? staining could be tannins also.
 

JD3263

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How do the inside of the toilet tanks look, any floating debris or slime? staining could be tannins also.

Wow! I checked one toilet and it's terrible! Definitely some debris and slime, along with a soft algae-like buildup on the sides up to the water level.

Our current water softener and brine tank hasn't really been functioning properly for a while.

Disgusting.jpg
 

All Fug Duck

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Wow! I checked one toilet and it's terrible! Definitely some debris and slime, along with a soft algae-like buildup on the sides up to the water level.

Our current water softener and brine tank hasn't really been functioning properly for a while.
Looks just like my water to be honest. I mean just about any proper sized water softener will work to soften the water, but that looks like Irion bacteria and or tannins, mine has both with the smell that goes with it. I have chlorine injection to help with mine plus an Iron filter, and carbon filter too. others in here know about it way more than me but looks like you need more than a softener to get better quality water. odds are the inside of your softener look like that too. lol, like the name on the JPG attached file.
 

JD3263

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Finally getting a chance to get back to this...

Based on our test results, A__a Sc____e recommended the following equipment:

- Fleck 2510SXT Digital Control Softener - 10" x 54" - 48K Grain
- Pentek 20" Big Blue Housing with a 5 Micron Poly String Filter

1. Does these seem like a good model/setup based on our test results, assuming there is not iron bacteria?

2. Is the 48K grain softener the correct size to be the most efficient for regeneration?

3. Is this sediment filter enough, or should I add other filters for iron, etc.?

4. Is there anything special about the Pentek filter housing? It seems there are other brands that appear to be the same plastic housing, all which handle the same size filters.

Thank you!
 

Reach4

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Good size. Expect it to regen about every 9 to 11 days. You will set the hardness to 13 to compensate for iron. You will also want to use treatment for your resin, because it will be dealing with the iron. Consider the right-hand adapters for the output to keep the lines from sticking out as much.

String filter should be good. I like the DGD-5005-20 polypropylene spun 50-5 dual gradient 20 gpm. Maybe string has some advantage. I have not found good info on the difference.

When you mount the filter, remember the housing will be heavy when you unscrew it. So you would rather not be holding it out at arm's length. Be careful not to crossthread. I like to turn the housing CCW (viewed from below) a couple times and feel where the thread falls in. Then go CW from there.

4. Pentek is a name brand. Some others will be cheap knockoffs, and some may be better for all I know. Also keep at least one extra o-ring on hand, unless you put in a 3-valve bypass.
 
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JD3263

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Thanks for all the feedback!

Since I'm replacing the softener and adding the sediment filter, I figure I can take this opportunity to just redo the entire setup. If I removed everything and started with just the slab in those pictures, how would you recommend installing it? What would be the best layout? Where do I put the sediment filter in the layout (Mount directly to wall before softener, etc.)?

The distance from the edge of the AC unit to the edge of the slab is 82", but I'll need to leave some space to perform maintenance on the AC unit. It's 3 feet from the wall to the edge of the slab.

1.25" pipe from pump to first spigot before pressure tank. Reduces to 1" pipe to pressure tank and to water softener. 1" pipe from water softener and then reduced to .75" pipe before going into house.

For the sediment filter(s), I plan to add a bypass and pressure gauges on each side of the housing, so would need to consider room for all that in the layout.

1. Are there ideal/better fittings for the pressure switch and pressure gauges to screw into?

2. Any recommendations for pressure gauges, or should I just pick up any of the cheap ones at Home Depot or Lowes?

3. Any recommendations for ball valves?

4. I'm not sure I'll use any other filters besides the one sediment filter, but would it be a good idea to just install two housings now and leave one empty without a filter? If I want to use it later for something then it's there and ready.

5. What about sun protection for the water softener? I've seen the covers that are basically like a sleeve that covers the just the tank with the control valve exposed. I also see the full covers that go over top of the entire softener and brine tank. Any experience with these options or other recommendations?

6. What about sun protection for the Big Blue filter housing? I've seen the sleeves for these too, but they don't cover the top part that the housing screws into.


Thank you!

Current_1.jpg
Current_2.jpg
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JD3263

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The Fleck 2510 SXT I received has a power transformer that states it is for indoor use only. My softener will be installed outside.

The vendor that sold me the unit said this is how they all come. They inquired with Pentair, who stated I would need to protect it with a weatherproof enclosure so it wouldn't be exposed to the elements. I wasn't able to find any reference to such an enclosure on their site or the vendor's site to get an idea of what might work.

1. My old/current softener doesn't have this separate in-line power transformer thingy. It just has the power brick that plugs into the wall like the old Nintendo systems. Is this the only option now for modern softeners?

2. The vendor told me they don't make the softeners with outdoor-rated power transformers (None of the Fleck models have them). Is that accurate?

3. If this is common nowadays, what enclosure is typically used? Is heat dissipation an issue with it being in an enclosure?


Thank you!
 

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Reach4

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Interesting. I have not see anything like that.

One possibility would be to make a low-voltage feed-thru that is big enough to pass the connector thru the wall. You already have wall penetrations for the pipes.

There is probably a big-enough waterproof electrical box that you could use. Shading that should reduce the inside temperature.

Also note that your softener plastic pipes, tank, and plastic valve stuff need protection against UV. You can use a cover, or paint uncovered parts. I would consider adapting a barbeque cover, car cover, etc.
 

Jeff H Young

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my pool equiptment sits outside I thought about enclosing mainly for estetics son in law been telling us for 15 years that our equiptment isnt going to last pool is 22 years old. he just keeps feeding that into my wifes head Im like come on equiptment is 22 years old and its not going to last isnt that decent life, pvc is painted though
 

Bannerman

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At least your softener's media tank appears to be opaque black so that should reduce/eliminate sunlight from entering the tank.

A softener equipped with a translucent tank that is installed outdoors and exposed to direct sunlight, will often grow algae on the inside of the tank particularly when softening unchlorinated well water. Since algae can forrm a large mass which usually cannot be removed by backwashing, this will typically result in a higher frequency for resin replacement compared to an identical softener that is protected from direct sun exposure.
 

JD3263

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Interesting. I have not see anything like that.

One possibility would be to make a low-voltage feed-thru that is big enough to pass the connector thru the wall. You already have wall penetrations for the pipes.

There is probably a big-enough waterproof electrical box that you could use. Shading that should reduce the inside temperature.

Also note that your softener plastic pipes, tank, and plastic valve stuff need protection against UV. You can use a cover, or paint uncovered parts. I would consider adapting a barbeque cover, car cover, etc.

I'm not sure I'd be able to make the wall passthrough work. The pipes enter the house about 15 feet away from the pad where the softener sits.

I was looking at something like this for a box, but now that I think about it, the existing holes in the box for feeding the wires isn't going to work for the wire between the valve head and the power transformer. There isn't a way to disconnect the transformer, so there's no way to feed that section of wires through the existing holes (The transformer won't fit through the tiny holes). I'd need to cut into the box from the front edge and push the wire through from that angle. I guess doing that at the bottom might not be too bad.

<Tried inserting image of what I'm talking about, but I keep getting an error.>

At least your softener's media tank appears to be opaque black so that should reduce/eliminate sunlight from entering the tank.

A softener equipped with a translucent tank that is installed outdoors and exposed to direct sunlight, will often grow algae on the inside of the tank particularly when softening unchlorinated well water. Since algae can forrm a large mass which usually cannot be removed by backwashing, this will typically result in a higher frequency for resin replacement compared to an identical softener that is protected from direct sun exposure.

Ugh, I remember previously reading about the issues with translucent tanks and completely forgot about that until you brought it up. So my current tank in the earlier images is black, but the new one is not. I had already planned on using a cover like Reach mentioned - something like this - but I guess it's a definite requirement now.
 

JD3263

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JD3263

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I hacked a little hole in the bottom of the box. The transformer seems to fit okay and I'm able to route the wires through while closing the lid. Looks like this will work.

On another note, I was looking at the stainless steel 1" bypass valve that came with the unit and the inlet/outlet seems severely obstructed, by design. Is that going to cause a problem with water pressure? The image shows the valve completely open.

Assuming the SS bypass is fine to use, what is the best method for making the transition from the bypass (Stainless steel female threaded) to Schedule 40 PVC? I plan to use the right-hand adapter like these.

Thank you for all the help!
 

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Reach4

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A threaded adapter. If you want the adapter to be stronger, you can buy a schedule 80 PVC MPT adapter. Standard would be schedule 40. The OD of the pipe is the same for each.

Plastic threads into metal female thread is fine. Other way is not, because schelule 40 plastic female thread can split. Use both PTFE tape and pipe dope that is OK for plastic.

Schedule 80 female threads can work, but you have to be careful to not over-torque. There are also female NPT thread pvc adapters that have a reinforcing band of metal. Those are stronger.

Remember the duct seal to keep the bugs out.
 
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