Re-Piping Utica Boiler Header?

[JaCkaL829]

Good Morning all,

I'm looking for advice/feedback on re-piping the boiler header on my Utica steam boiler. Quick back story, about 10 years ago I had my boiler replaced from a local guy plumber. He has years and years of experience, and someone family members had used, so I didn't overthink it. My boiler went out in December, and my wife and newborn wanted it fixed ASAP as they should. He ended up using a Utica PEG112 boiler, claiming ever since WM start using plastic nipples he didn't like them anymore. He did tell me he can save me $500, if he does the header in copper as opposed to black iron. I took him up on the savings, thinking if it would pass inspection it has to be fine. Fast forward to now, and I consistently get banging at times from the header. I've used the boiler surge powders, and even had another plumber use the powder surge than 'skimmed' it. From everything I read copper should never be used for near boiler piping more so because of the properties of copper itself, not so much the soldering involved with it.

I would like to replace the header, and re-do it myself. I've replaced some returns before, and some below boiler piping on the returns. I know it's incredibly crucial to get the measurements correct and within spec. While talking to another heating professional, he advised I can redo it two ways. The first is find a pre-made kit for my boiler, which I actually found. Or 2, have someone measure the pre-existing copper, and go to a supply house to have the specific pipe cut to length. The kit seems like a safer bet to me, but the second option seems more cost effective. I already have to replace additional returns as you may be able to see in some of the pics.

I just wanted to get your take on it. I'm not a plumber but have access to tools, and I'm not afraid to do the work. My thought was if I try/attempt this in June, I have more than enough time to get it done before October, and if it really doesn't go as plan, I can call in a professional. I also feel replacing it correctly now, would save me if I had an emergency in the heating season and copper header had a major leak.

I attached some pics for reference.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Fitter30]

The condensate return needs 2-4" below water level. Utica as u posted shows a 6" " nipple between the tee and ell (90°) feeding the boiler. Could also have a bad trap blowing steam through. Return temp normally 190°. The other problem is the boiler drain unless there is one on the other side. There's one one the return side but that wouldn't drain the whole boiler. Want to blow down the boiler at the lowest point to get any dirt that settled there. What steam pressure you running.?

 

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[John Gayewski]

The banging has nothing to do with the copper you could probably change a few points of the piping and get a hundred years out of that piping. I'll try to post a specific piping plan later

 

[Sylvan]

I normally do not use copper on steam applications and the guy who did the soldering would never pass the practical test given in most civilized states.

The solder is what not to do

The Hartford loop looks a bit too low and kind of far from the boiler

 

[Fitter30]

I normally do not use copper on steam applications and the guy who did the soldering would never pass the practical test given in most civilized states.

The solder is what not to do

The Hartford loop looks a bit too low and kind of far from the boiler

I'd never use copper or malleable fittings. Just have to inspect each fitting for a sand hole whole 30 seconds. Most people won't look for a mechanical supply house or a plumber supply that does both. Steam is a is a lost art except for production.

 

[John Gayewski]

Is the supply (upper copper pipe) reduced in size? Is this a one pipe counterflow system or a one pipe parallel flow sytem or a two pipe (with steam traps) system?

Almost every steam boiler has the supply piping coming out of the top of the boiler not the upper side. Also your header is the upper steel pipe, but he made a lower headed the lower header should be removed.

 

[JaCkaL829]

Fitter 30 - There is another drain on the other side of the boiler. So I have 2. One at the end of the return (pictured) one on the lower port of the boiler. I'm not sure on the pressure, but I can look.

John - The banging I get is always from the upper copper near boiler piping. I though I read that copper and solder joints don't 'give' any when going from hot or cold. Either way, my concern is the header and the joints failing in the heart of heating season, but I'd be interested to hear your take on what can be changed. As for your other question the upper copper pipe size is not reduced, it's 2" copper.

I'll try to answer your other question as best I can, I'm not a professional/expert by any means. I have one header that feeds two main runs. Both of those main runs has venting in my basement, right as it goes into a vertical return. I understand what you are saying about the supply coming out of the top of the boiler, that's how my old WM had it, but I will say in his defense if you look at the piping diagram in the manual from Utica this is listed as an example using 1 supply side. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to reconfigure the existing steel, I was also told once it's in you really can't adjust them.

Sylvan - I didn't realize how bad the joints we're, they haven't leaked, but something I'm very concerned about since it's been done 10 years ago.

One thing I forgot to mention, when one of the pros came they used a product I believe SurgeMaster, and it gave relief for a little while. He did come back to skim it. I've used it after he did, and it does help, but as the season progresses and I add more water into the system the banging would come back. I'm not sure if this product or others should be used regularly or not. Not sure of the long term effects on the boiler itself.

Thank you all who responded, I truly appreciate the feedback. The more I look at the Utica manual, the Near Pipe Boiling Kit I posted, and my current setup, this seems to be the acceptable way to go. The Hartford loop if pipped with the Utica recommended way, would line up into my existing return. For those asking about the Hartford loop I have in cooper, is the concern that there is too much horizontal space? In looking in the diagrams from Utica it lists a close nipple for this connection.

Thank you again all, I do agree that steam heating is a lost art, I'm genuinely interested in it as I tend to like more older homes. Unfortunately I haven't had a lot of luck finding someone good at it professionally. I remember reading a quote online that said, "all steamfitters are plumbers, but not all plumbers are steamfitters" that sure seems to be the case.

 

[Fitter30]

Is the boiler water level jumping up and down in sight glass rapidly or slowly?

 

[John Gayewski]

The header is the upper steel portion. You need to remove that cap on the end of the header and use that as your balancing loop down to the return pipe and on the way down connect the Hartford loop. The Hartford loop needs to be 2" below the water line.