We recently moved into our house and have an issue with what appears to be a dedicated hot water recirculation loop. When the recirc pump is running, our cold water isn't cold. When the pump was plugged in and running 24x7, you could let the cold water run for 10 minutes and it still wouldn't flow as cold as it should. Even without the pump running 24x7, the cold water still isn't cold and doesn't get cold. This time of year it should be too cold to rinse your mouth after brushing your teeth
Basic info:
>Single-level house on slab foundation, built 2006.
>Location: Northwest Arkansas
>Gas water heater
Picture Notations:
NO IDEA:
The pressure relief valve is routed through the wall to outside. In the pic, where I notated "NO IDEA", you'll see a piece of copper tubing connected to the pressure relief pop-off line at the lower end, and at the upper end, it used to be connected to the tank supply line ball valve with another valve in between.
Recirculation:
>What appears to be a dedicated recirculation loop is connected to the bottom of the tank, between the drain valve and tank.
>Pump has no timer, plug-in for on, unplug for off (currently I have plugged into a smart wifi plug on a schedule)
>Pump & check valve direction: pushing water INTO tank.
Solutions:
The water heater supply line doesn't have a check valve, is adding one the easiest/best possible solution?
If the easiest way to fix this is to add a check valve on the water heater supply side, what's the best type to install?
Can I install something like this: https://www.americanvalve.com/product/g31sl/ in a vertical direction directly onto the top of the tank supply fitting?
It says they need to be installed a minimum of 5 X pipe diameter downstream of any fitting that can cause turbulence...I'm guessing that flex lines cause turbulence. So should I replace the flex line with sweated copper lines?
Basic info:
>Single-level house on slab foundation, built 2006.
>Location: Northwest Arkansas
>Gas water heater
Picture Notations:
NO IDEA:
The pressure relief valve is routed through the wall to outside. In the pic, where I notated "NO IDEA", you'll see a piece of copper tubing connected to the pressure relief pop-off line at the lower end, and at the upper end, it used to be connected to the tank supply line ball valve with another valve in between.
Recirculation:
>What appears to be a dedicated recirculation loop is connected to the bottom of the tank, between the drain valve and tank.
>Pump has no timer, plug-in for on, unplug for off (currently I have plugged into a smart wifi plug on a schedule)
>Pump & check valve direction: pushing water INTO tank.
Solutions:
The water heater supply line doesn't have a check valve, is adding one the easiest/best possible solution?
If the easiest way to fix this is to add a check valve on the water heater supply side, what's the best type to install?
Can I install something like this: https://www.americanvalve.com/product/g31sl/ in a vertical direction directly onto the top of the tank supply fitting?
It says they need to be installed a minimum of 5 X pipe diameter downstream of any fitting that can cause turbulence...I'm guessing that flex lines cause turbulence. So should I replace the flex line with sweated copper lines?