Pressure goes to zero after second cycle

[Andy V]

Existing well pump, 3/4 hp approx 18 yrs old / brand new sediment filter, bladder tank, above ground lines, tee assembly, pressure switch, gauge - everything new above ground. Same switch as old setup - 40/60 - Bladder tank 20 to 32 gallons (slight upgrade from the old). No leaks anywhere.

Everything in the house works better than ever except high volume items. When you turn on the tub, or use the clothes washer or turn on the hose outside, the pressure tank cycles once then when it should cycle again it fails and pressure goes to zero. For instance, turn on the hose and the tank depletes, switch kicks on and fills tank as expected, when the switch should turn on and refill the second time it clicks but shuts down - and the pressure drops to zero. Have not been able to make this happen even with a running sink, just the tub, clothes washer and outside spigots.

I adjusted the pressure down to see if this was it, but lower pressure did not make a difference. Put the system back to 40/60 since the most-used items are fine.

What could cause this?

 

[Reach4]

For instance, turn on the hose and the tank depletes, switch kicks on and fills tank as expected, when the switch should turn on and refill the second time it clicks but shuts down - and the pressure drops to zero.

How long does the pressure on the gauge stay at zero?

Is this a "3-wire pump" with a control box?

What symptoms caused you to get the new work done?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Andy V]

Stays at zero until I recharge the tank with the lever on the pressure switch. The thing won;t recharge manually until I've waited about 60 seconds, minimum.
2 wire, no control box.
The old sediment filter blew and the bladder started leaking - so I replaced everything.

 

[Reach4]

Stays at zero until I recharge the tank with the lever on the pressure switch. The thing won;t recharge manually until I've waited about 60 seconds, minimum.
2 wire, no control box.
The old sediment filter blew and the bladder started leaking - so I replaced everything.

For a submersible pump, set the air precharge 2 psi below the cut-in pressure. Air precharge is always set with water pressure zero.

If the problem remains, go 3 psi below cut-in.

If problem remains, the nipple to the pressure switch may be partially clogged, causing the pressure switch to be delayed.

 

[Andy V]

Will do and get back to you. Thanks!

 

[Andy V]

Verified precharge was 38 for a switch set 40/60
Problem persists
Went down 1 (-3 psi)
Problem still persists
weird issue.

 

[Reach4]

Verified precharge was 38 for a switch set 40/60
Problem persists
Went down 1 (-3 psi)
Problem still persists
weird issue.

With the pressure over 40 and the pump not running, compare the air pressure to the water pressure. The purpose of this is to compare the calibration of the two gauges. Normally those two will be within about a pound of each other.

One more thing: the pressure tank and the pressure switch should see pretty much the same pressure. The water path between where the pressure switch tees off and the pressure tank should be short and wide. If you have a lot of separation, you might want to move the pressure switch. Consider posting a photo that includes the pressure switch and the input to the pressure tank.

Also, most people don't get the switches with the lever. Do you have reason that your well will be pumped dry on some occasion? If not, consider getting a switch with no lever. Some have done a modification to disable the low-pressure cutoff.

If you expect your well to run dry for real at times, there are electronic devices that can shut down the pump for a while under that condition. A low pressure cutoff switch with the lever is cheaper, but it can fail to cut off under some conditions.

 

[Fitter30]

There is a check valve mounted inside the well casing before piping exited. Does the system pressure switch close when pressure drops below 38 lbs? If it does good possibility that the pump in the casing is piped with galvanized pipe and its rusted through not build pressure.

 

[Valveman]

If the pressure switch is working and there is power to the pump, most likely the overload in the motor is tripping.

 

[Reach4]

Everything in the house works better than ever except high volume items.

If it does good possibility that the pump in the casing is piped with galvanized pipe and its rusted through not build pressure.

What would cause you to think that? You did not mention air coming from your faucets.

Does the system pressure switch close when pressure drops below 38 lbs?

Possibly. Usually a 40/60 pressure switch is adjusted to turn on when the pressure drops to 40.

With the water pressure over 40 and the pump not running, record the air pressure and the the water pressure. What pressures did you record?

 

[Andy V]

Turns out the pump was bad. Had it replaced and the NEW pump was bad. LOL. Putting in a different brand as I type and everthing should be good to go. Thanks for the help!