Pressure booster up a long hill

[lemonq]

I read some similar posts to my scenario on this forum. We are trying to run a waterline up a new driveway that is 1800 feet long up a hill with a 288 foot elevation gain. City water at the street is 110 psi as measured by the water company this week. They do not provide a statement saying the minimum supplied pressure will be X.

There will be electric at the house site on the hilltop, and presumably I can get electric if required at other points along the driveway. Based on 0.433 psi lost per foot of elevation, I’m calculating a zero static pressure approximately 35 ft of elevation below ground level of the hilltop. It’s going to be a 4 bedroom 3.5 bathroom house, including 2 bathrooms on the 2nd floor - so add 12 more ft of elevation for that.

Can someone suggest an inline booster pump, and where would be the best placement along the water line? Do we need more than one pump? we are considering using 2-inch poly line, although the plumber we had first contacted says he doesn’t work with line that size… would like to avoid storage a tank at the top, and would be ideal to have at least 50psi static pressure at the top.

 

[Reach4]

125 psi from altitude rise.

Pipeline Pressure Loss Calculators

can be used for the friction loss.

29 psi friction loss for 1900 ft of 1.5 inch pipe at 20gpm. 7.1 psi loss if 2 inch. So friction and head loss add. 20 gpm is on the high side, and 10 gpm is probably enough.

Lets go for 60 psi at the base of the house. Thus you need 225+20+60-110= 195 125+20+60-110= 95 psi of boost if I did that right.

You also have to make sure that the pressure in the pipe at the output of each pump does not exceed the pipe rating.

I expect this could be done with one well house somewhere near the midpoint, but that should be calculated out for sure.

I would check out a multi-stage centrifugal pump.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[lemonq]

125 psi from altitude rise.

Pipeline Pressure Loss Calculators

can be used for the friction loss.

29 psi friction loss for 1900 ft of 1.5 inch pipe at 20gpm. 7.1 psi loss if 2 inch. So friction and head loss add. 20 gpm is on the high side, and 10 gpm is probably enough.

Lets go for 60 psi at the base of the house. Thus you need 225+20+60-110= 195 psi of boost if I did that right.

You also have to make sure that the pressure in the pipe at the output of each pump does not exceed the pipe rating.

I expect this could be done with one well house somewhere near the midpoint, but that should be calculated out for sure.

Helpful - where did the 225 come from in the Calc? Is that the 125 psi from above? Maybe that means a boost should be more like 95 psi needed?

 

[wwhitney]

Thus you need 225+20+60-110= 195 psi of boost if I did that right.

That should be 125 + (29 or 7) + 60 - 110 = 104 or 82. Although 110 should be replaced by a smaller number to reflect that the city did not a minimum pressure guarantee.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[lemonq]

That should be 125 + (29 or 7) + 60 - 110 = 104 or 82. Although 110 should be replaced by a smaller number to reflect that the city did not a minimum pressure guarantee.

Cheers, Wayne

Thank you, yes, that makes sense. Also curious if there are specific booster pump recommendations?

 

[Valveman]

I would not count on the city giving 110 PSI all the time. Even figuring 90 PSI may not be enough, but we have to pick a number. With 90 PSI from the city the water will barely get 207' up the hill. You will need a positive NPSH on the pump so the pump will need to be installed less than 200' up the hill. From 200' the pump will need to supply another 88' or 38 PSI) to get to the top plus the 60 PSI needed at the house for a total of 98 PSI. (round up to 100 PSI, or 231') The house should generally use less than 10 GPM at any given time, making friction loss in 1.5" pipe minimal.

A 10GB10 will pump 12 GPM at 231' of head.

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The PK1ALT with the heavy duty pressure switch would be set for 90 on and 110 off, with the CSV delivering a strong constant 100 PSI (60 PSI up at the house). But you will need the LT for less tank, and supply your own pressure tank. I know they are only rated to 100 PSI but I would use the 86 gallon Water Worker tank as it is the same as a Well-X-Trol WX302 witch is rated at 150 PSI.

 

[lemonq]

I would not count on the city giving 110 PSI all the time. Even figuring 90 PSI may not be enough, but we have to pick a number. With 90 PSI from the city the water will barely get 207' up the hill. You will need a positive NPSH on the pump so the pump will need to be installed less than 200' up the hill. From 200' the pump will need to supply another 88' or 38 PSI) to get to the top plus the 60 PSI needed at the house for a total of 98 PSI. (round up to 100 PSI, or 231') The house should generally use less than 10 GPM at any given time, making friction loss in 1.5" pipe minimal.

A 10GB10 will pump 12 GPM at 231' of head.

10GBC10 - Buy Goulds Pumps multi-stage booster pump - $1,007.00

10GBC10 Buy Goulds Pumps 10GBC10 multi-stage booster pump online. ITT Goulds water pumps from Locke Well & Pump Orlando Florida

www.lockewell.com

The PK1ALT with the heavy duty pressure switch would be set for 90 on and 110 off, with the CSV delivering a strong constant 100 PSI (60 PSI up at the house). But you will need the LT for less tank, and supply your own pressure tank. I know they are only rated to 100 PSI but I would use the 86 gallon Water Worker tank as it is the same as a Well-X-Trol WX302 witch is rated at 150 PSI.

View attachment 101541

Studying all this, and consulting with contractor on implementation. Very much appreciate all the input!