Plumbing a pressure tank tee

[tdhd]

Good morning,

I recently replaced my waterlogged 14 gallon pressure tank and when I did, I upgraded to a 21 gallon one. Burcam.

Problem is, my old tank tee doesnt fit the new tank because its not long enough (8" I think) to reach beyond the pressure tanks side and the switch was butted up against it. The hardware store I visited didnt have a new tank tee of the correct size either, and to save re doing the whole thing they recommended putting a nipple on it to get the extra 1-2" needed.

I am very new to all this, and was trying DIY as plumbing calls to my location are very expensive.

So I added the nipple to the existing stem (which has a union) that was connecting the tank to the tee. I wrapped the threads with the pink tape, and I think I did this correctly by the second try. But some slow drips are coming from the coupling connecting the nipple and the old stem with the union fitting. About 1 drip per 45 seconds. I took it all apart and re wrapped the side of the nipple that seemed to be dripping and it seemed much better, but then it was dripping from the other side.

I called a plumber and they said to put some leak lock on it. I haven't done this.

I'd like some opinions on whether I should pursue this any further...i.e. taking it all apart again and re-wrapping all the threads, with a bit of vaseline this time maybe to make sure the tape doesnt get ripped and bunched as it connects. Or is there something fundamental about adding a nipple to that pipe stem that is going to just make all of this wasted efforts? Does it matter that the elbow, nipple and stem are brass but the coupling is stainless steel? Secondly, and I expect this will provoke varied opinions, should I use the leak lock?

I don't know the GPM but its a 1/2 HP submersible deep well .

Thanks in advance for any advice and opinions.....

 

[Reach4]

Your pink tape plus pipe compound (AKA pipe dope) plus enough torque will stop the leak. I have not heard the term "leak lock". I am not a plumber.

Chances are another 1/4 turn or so would have stopped the leak by itself.

When applying the force, I think you need two wrenches. One on the fitting out of the pressure tank so that you are not overstressing that connection.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[tdhd]

Your pink tape plus pipe compound (AKA pipe dope) plus enough torque will stop the leak. I have not heard the term "leak lock". I am not a plumber.

Chances are another 1/4 turn or so would have stopped the leak by itself.

When applying the force, I think you need two wrenches. One on the fitting out of the pressure tank so that you are not overstressing that connection.

I have something called megaloc. Is that same as pipe dope / pipe compound? Its described as a thread sealer. https://www.oatey.com/products/hercules-megaloc--1330684393 From what I can tell, its not permanent. But it wouldnt even matter much if it was, since its mainly the coupling and nipple that need it. Since I could see inside the coupling, I don't think it would be possible to tighten it even more because its almost right at the end of the threads. Pipe dope under or over the tape?

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Reach4]

Good dope/sealer. Yes, that will be removable later...it's not like thread locker.

If it looks like you are inserted nearly all of the way, then use more tape if you redo. Tape should not go past the end of the pipe, but also don't spiral it up the pipe.

Almost everybody here says dope over tape. However I do both, with some dope on the threads helping to grab the tape initially.

 

[tdhd]

Good dope/sealer. Yes, that will be removable later...it's not like thread locker.

If it looks like you are inserted nearly all of the way, then use more tape if you redo. Tape should not go past the end of the pipe, but also don't spiral it up the pipe.

Almost everybody here says dope over tape. However I do both, with some dope on the threads helping to grab the tape initially.Thanks

Thanks! Not sure what you mean "dont spiral up the pipe." Overlap about half, right? I used 2-3 wraps for 1" pipe. Will try 4.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks! Not sure what you mean "dont spiral up the pipe." Overlap about half, right? I used 2-3 wraps for 1" pipe. Will try 4.

So the word overlap may describe what I was suggesting not to do. My comments are not based on experience.

I was suggesting that you don't do this: https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/...KHENXXDLA7UMFJW/image-asset.jpeg?format=1000w
Instead I am suggesting your tape job look more like the second picture of https://kansascity.swagelok.com/en/resources/pressures/past-articles/ptfe-tape-thread-sealant
Others may like the partial overlap. I am going by what I think the consensus is. There is often more than one right way.

One more comment: it is easier to get sufficient tightening with longer wrenches. I often like a big locking pliers instead of a pipe wrench.

 

[Valveman]

Good morning,

I recently replaced my waterlogged 14 gallon pressure tank and when I did, I upgraded to a 21 gallon one. Burcam.

Problem is, my old tank tee doesnt fit the new tank because its not long enough (8" I think) to reach beyond the pressure tanks side and the switch was butted up against it. The hardware store I visited didnt have a new tank tee of the correct size either, and to save re doing the whole thing they recommended putting a nipple on it to get the extra 1-2" needed.

I am very new to all this, and was trying DIY as plumbing calls to my location are very expensive.

So I added the nipple to the existing stem (which has a union) that was connecting the tank to the tee. I wrapped the threads with the pink tape, and I think I did this correctly by the second try. But some slow drips are coming from the coupling connecting the nipple and the old stem with the union fitting. About 1 drip per 45 seconds. I took it all apart and re wrapped the side of the nipple that seemed to be dripping and it seemed much better, but then it was dripping from the other side.

I called a plumber and they said to put some leak lock on it. I haven't done this.

I'd like some opinions on whether I should pursue this any further...i.e. taking it all apart again and re-wrapping all the threads, with a bit of vaseline this time maybe to make sure the tape doesnt get ripped and bunched as it connects. Or is there something fundamental about adding a nipple to that pipe stem that is going to just make all of this wasted efforts? Does it matter that the elbow, nipple and stem are brass but the coupling is stainless steel? Secondly, and I expect this will provoke varied opinions, should I use the leak lock?

I don't know the GPM but its a 1/2 HP submersible deep well .

Thanks in advance for any advice and opinions.....

OK I can't not reply to this. Lol! A 14 gallon size pressure tank only holds about 3 gallons of water. That makes the pump cycle on and off and the bladder in the tank go up and down for every 3 gallons used. That is why the bladder in your first tank is torn and the tank is waterlogged. A 21 gallon size pressure tank only holds 5 gallons of water, which isn't going to help the cycling situation. Your 1/2HP pump is probably a 10 GPM pump and will fill that new tank is 30 seconds. Even a 5 or 7 GPM pump is not going to run for at least a minute as the pump is suppose to do.

A Cycle Stop Valve with a 4.5 gallon size tank would do a much better job. It would cycle the pump less and deliver much stronger constant pressure to the house. You can still use the CSV with the 21 gallon size tank. But the 21 gallon size tank is not large enough without a CSV.

 

[dryhero]

Regarding the CSV, is there a pressure tank capacity large enough that makes it ineffective?

 

[Valveman]

Regarding the CSV, is there a pressure tank capacity large enough that makes it ineffective?

Not really. I have used them with 50K and 100K water towers. The CSV actually holds such a steady constant pressure that the level in the tower never changes. The CSV makes the tower or big pressure tank basically ineffective but not the other way around. Lol! On those systems we even have to turn the pumps off manually or on a timer so the tank is actually used and the water in it doesn't get stale and lose it's chlorine residual.