PEX attached to angle stop-- cannot identify

[PaulW]

I'm a PEX newbie. Our current house of three years is plumbed with PEX. I have NO PEX tools. A recent Kitchen Faucet cartridge change revealed that the hot water angle stop under the sink doesn't work. I bought a BrassCraft angle stop repair kit-- BCSR01, but I'm not 100% sure the Angle stop is a BrassCraft. There are no markings on it, save a few small "diamond shape" stampings on the body and "LK09" (I think-- unless I'm reading it upside down). NO brand name on the multi-turn handle. On the UNDERside of the multi-turn handle, there is "A4, B" and "2403" stamped on it. Any experts out there know for sure what brand it is? The cold water angle stop next to it looks much newer and is a Pro-Flo-- stamped on the handle.

If it were copper or galvanized, I'd just replace the Angle Stop, but alas, it's PEX. Looks like perhaps a compression fitting attached to PEX due to the hex nut. If I remove that hex nut, will there be a traditional brass ferrule under there? will there be a sleeve INside the PEX to support the ferrule? Do I need to cut the PEX back beyond the ferrule to change the angle stop if the repair kit doesn't work? There isn't much PEX to work with if I need to reim it back.

Finally, What would be the appropriate PEX maintenance & installation tools for the average homeowner? I'll probably do a bathroom remodel or two down the road, so I'll eventually use the tools again, but the first thing I'd do is probably do is install a barbed male threaded fitting on that PEX and attach a FIP angle stop so the next time this comes up, I'm only unthreading/rethreading a traditional angle stop.

Thank you

 

[JohnCT]

The PEX I see is expansion A, not crimp. What they should have done IMO was to use an angle stop that was made for expansion PEX. I guess the compression nut works on PEX because it's not leaking. If you *carefully* cut off the short section of blue 1/2" pex, you will need an expander to replace the PEX and expand the PEX to go over the new angle stop. Check youtube for expansion pex installation videos - it's pretty simple but you need tools.

If you nick the plastic fitting when removing the blue pipe, you'll have to replace that fitting and the red sections of pipe as well. If you're really careful, you can cut the outer white expansion ring off first, then *score* the blue part underneath with a razor (if you go all the way through the blue pipe you'll nick the fitting). Once the blue pipe is scored, heat it up with a heat gun and wiggle it off the plastic fitting and replace.

John

 

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[Jeff H Young]

my house is 24 years old (i didnt plumb it ) its PEX type A expansion my stub outs are pex as well they have stiffeners and regular compression stops I ve changed all of them but its been over10 years ago . Im a little hesitant to call compression a good or best method but never an issue . expansion , crimp ,clamp are acceptable and proven . be certain the
barbs are aproved for your usage . using a adapter to threaded pipe ( MIP ) not a bad idea in my opinion i dont like having to cut the stub outs

 

[PaulW]

Thanks everyone. I went to my local big box Home Improvement store and the plumbing attendant sold me a Shark Bite angle stop. I bought it, but am not 100% convinced. It'll require me to cut back that tiny piece of PEX, which I'd rather not do.

I did look at the BrassCraft angle stops and barbed male fittings and bought those too. However, looking at the BrassCraft items on their shelves, I did see some with identical markings on the new valves to the one I have. So, I've convinced myself to try the Repair Kit (BCSR01) first. If that fails, then try to replace the valve with the existing ferrule in place, and if that fails, but it back & hope I have room to try the shark bite...

If all of that fails, the emergency plumber at probably $500-$600

I'd assume a brass compression ferrule would collapse a PEX tube, so, yes, I'd expect a support sleeve on the inside of the tube if I remove that angle stop.

 

[Reach4]

Your plan sounds right. Let us know what works.

 

[JohnCT]

It'll require me to cut back that tiny piece of PEX, which I'd rather not do.

You may not have to cut the PEX back. The Shark should slide right over - as long as the O ring ends up sitting on a clean, unscratched, undented part of the pipe, it will seal. I've never seen a compression fitting used on PEX so I don't know how far along the pipe the compression fitting effected it, but when you make your repair attempt, I'd try that first.

John

 

[John Gayewski]

You should just be able to shut the water off and replace the washer on the stop. It's pretty easy and it doesn't matter the brand. You just need a washer assortment. Pretty sure it's a tapered washer.