Outlets daisy chain vs. parallel (pigtail) method- best?

[Schibig87]

Hello all,

PNW Washingtonian here-
I have passed all rough in electrical inspections with flying colors on my little cottage.
Now ready for final wiring.

I have heard very mixed opinions on daisy chain vs. parallel wiring for outlets.

I am running 20 amp everything- no more than 12 outlets per circuit most rooms.
Kitchen has 2 dedicated circuits 1 has 3 outlets- end of run is fridge. the other has 5 outlets.

Research mentions- daisy chain can be problematic for end of run amp loss and trouble shooting outlets.

Parallel appears to be preferred. yet notes that can have more failure points.
I only have a few rooms and less than 100 outlets- so I am using Wago brand connectors vs. nuts.

I welcome all input

Thank you!

 

[Fitter30]

Parallel. Wago conectors use a spring wire to hold the wire. Wire nut over twisted wires in my opinion is a better connection. Back stabbing a receptacle or switch is not recommended for a real load use the screw terminals. 12 gauge wire is more difficult to wire and stuff into a box than 14 gauge.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Schibig87]

Parallel. Wago conectors use a spring wire to hold the wire. Wire nut over twisted wires in my opinion is a better connection. Back stabbing a receptacle or switch is not recommended for a real load use the screw terminals. 12 gauge wire is more difficult to wire and stuff into a box than 14 gauge.

Thank you very much for your reply- I will look into wire nuts. I do plan to use the screw terminals- have seen a lot of the same sentiments about back stabbing- I bought a step up from residential grade outlets- they have the back connector option that the screws tighten- still plan on the side terminals.
12 g is a lot harder for sure. used 14 on my septic alarm run and thought " boy! that bends easy
I am trying not to be that gal and over think everything- once again appreciate your input.
have a great weekend.

 

[bigb56]

The commercial grade receptacles with the clamping plate work very well and there is no need to wrap the wire around the screw if using those and in fact it is not recommended. The plates are scored and grip the conductors very well. Your GFCI's will be this style as well. Just make sure you get the wire under the plate.

With 12 gauge wire I like to land the right hand side first as I am right handed, then rotate the device half way and make up the other side, then complete the rotation and push everything into the box being sure to arrange the wires neatly as you go and keep the ground wire pushed as far back as possible. Then pull the device forward enough to reach the screws and re-torque. This step is not necessary with #14 wire but with #12 and up solid the terminals can loosen when you twist and rotate the device so they need to be double checked.

Whether pigtailing or using the device terminals for pass thru power both are acceptable. Pigtailing does eliminate power for downstream loads from passing through each device however the devices are rated for it, even 15 amp devices are rated for 20 amp pass thru. If there is room, I prefer pigtailing but it does add to box fill. If pigtailing, you can attach all your pigtails to the devices first before putting them in the boxes.

Wire nuts are only better than Wagos when installed properly. It is pretty hard to install a Wago improperly but it is quite easy for a wire nut to get installed improperly, especially by a novice. So an improper wire nut splice is always inferior to a typical Wago splice, while a proper wire nut splice is superior to a Wago splice, IMHO as a career electrician.

 

[Schibig87]

The commercial grade receptacles with the clamping plate work very well and there is no need to wrap the wire around the screw if using those and in fact it is not recommended. The plates are scored and grip the conductors very well. Your GFCI's will be this style as well. Just make sure you get the wire under the plate.

With 12 gauge wire I like to land the right hand side first as I am right handed, then rotate the device half way and make up the other side, then complete the rotation and push everything into the box being sure to arrange the wires neatly as you go and keep the ground wire pushed as far back as possible. Then pull the device forward enough to reach the screws and re-torque. This step is not necessary with #14 wire but with #12 and up solid the terminals can loosen when you twist and rotate the device so they need to be double checked.

Whether pigtailing or using the device terminals for pass thru power both are acceptable. Pigtailing does eliminate power for downstream loads from passing through each device however the devices are rated for it, even 15 amp devices are rated for 20 amp pass thru. If there is room, I prefer pigtailing but it does add to box fill. If pigtailing, you can attach all your pigtails to the devices first before putting them in the boxes.

Wire nuts are only better than Wagos when installed properly. It is pretty hard to install a Wago improperly but it is quite easy for a wire nut to get installed improperly, especially by a novice. So an improper wire nut splice is always inferior to a typical Wago splice, while a proper wire nut splice is superior to a Wago splice, IMHO as a career electrician.

Hi and thank you.

Good to know on the clamping plate!
in regards to pig tailing-
but it does add to box fill.- Is this in overall box fill calculation? ( I thought I read where it does not count as far as NEC?) or trying to get 12 g wire into the box easier? I carefully calculated my boxes accordingly but using 12/2 does change it up a bit
Lastly- Does pass though power diminish by end of line? Is it a concern with so much being LED now? My daughter loves lamps etc.

I was all set to just pass through wire, the inspector said it was fine as I did my pumphouse barn etc. like this and passed inspection-
I ran main power- sub panels etc and found it to be not too bad. Why I am hung up on this is crazy but here I am - very OCD & meticulous.
I appreciate your time- I did download the 2023 NEC just in case. It's what I have used to plan etc.
Thanks,
Patty

 

[bigb56]

There is always voltage drop on any circuit as you get further from the source but normally this won't be an issue in a residential receptacle circuit.

When I say it adds to box fill, it does not need to be counted as box fill per 314.16(B)(1) but it does add more stuff to fit into the box. With the pressure plate receptacles you can use stranded for your pigtails though which makes things easier to put in the box. Also don't forget your device count, it was raised several cycles back to 2 allowances for each device.

The most helpful books for anyone wanting to learn the trade are by by Ray Mullin and Phil Simmons. I used to have my apprentices study "Electrical Wiring Residential". Much easier to read than a code book and helps you understand code as well.

 

[Schibig87]

There is always voltage drop on any circuit as you get further from the source but normally this won't be an issue in a residential receptacle circuit.

When I say it adds to box fill, it does not need to be counted as box fill per 314.16(B)(1) but it does add more stuff to fit into the box. With the pressure plate receptacles you can use stranded for your pigtails though which makes things easier to put in the box. Also don't forget your device count, it was raised several cycles back to 2 allowances for each device.

The most helpful books for anyone wanting to learn the trade are by by Ray Mullin and Phil Simmons. I used to have my apprentices study "Electrical Wiring Residential". Much easier to read than a code book and helps you understand code as well.

Thank you once again! I will look at those books. Have a great eve.

 

[Afjes]

Pigtailing each receptacle is my "way-to-go". It takes longer to wire each receptacle but easier to find an issue with a faulty receptacle in the future. Especially when it comes to rental properties. Wiring each receptacle with pigtails: if a receptacle fails the receptacles downstream continue to operate. A tenant will have far less ambition to constantly call you to have one receptacle fixed than if a receptacle fails and the 5 receptacles downstream are also dead; especially if it kills all in one room. Then you have to run extension cords etc.

I used the push in connectors. Fast and easy for me. Especially have arthritis in my fingers was harder with wire nuts to make a secure connection. If replacing a faulty receptacle I always used a push in connector especially if the wires were far too short. Much easier to place an extension wire on a wire in the box that is very short; good luck trying to twist connect the wires with a nut.

Using 12 gauge the entire house is fine for general purpose receptacles. More difficult to work with though.
Gotta watch your box fills either 14 or 12 anyways. More capacity of 12 gauge 20amp circuit.

 

[Schibig87]

Pigtailing each receptacle is my "way-to-go". It takes longer to wire each receptacle but easier to find an issue with a faulty receptacle in the future. Especially when it comes to rental properties. Wiring each receptacle with pigtails: if a receptacle fails the receptacles downstream continue to operate. A tenant will have far less ambition to constantly call you to have one receptacle fixed than if a receptacle fails and the 5 receptacles downstream are also dead; especially if it kills all in one room. Then you have to run extension cords etc.

I used the push in connectors. Fast and easy for me. Especially have arthritis in my fingers was harder with wire nuts to make a secure connection. If replacing a faulty receptacle I always used a push in connector especially if the wires were far too short. Much easier to place an extension wire on a wire in the box that is very short; good luck trying to twist connect the wires with a nut.

Using 12 gauge the entire house is fine for general purpose receptacles. More difficult to work with though.
Gotta watch your box fills either 14 or 12 anyways. More capacity of 12 gauge 20amp circuit.

Thank you for the great advice- esp since this will be my daughters home and perhaps a rental later down the line. I have now tried a wire nut- I think I prefer the wago- I have both lever and push in. I researched box fill and adjusted all my boxes accordingly, inspectors said I am good there. I will definitely pay attention to this for final though.
I do feel I have left too much wire exiting the box as I went 6" from box opening vs. 6" from where wire leaves sheathing/enters box.
I was worried they would end up too short .
Have a nice weekend
Best,
Patty

 

[bigb56]

Don't worry about too much wire, you can fold the excess into "Z"s and push it into the back of the box. The rule, as you probably already know, is a minimum of 6" from the back of the box and at least 3" extending past the front of the box for ordinary device boxes.

 

[Reach4]

I like 4-inch boxes to avoid adapters in some locations.

Consider a GFCI outlet for a potential bidet seat. The tankless ones can pull 14 amps, but only for a short period.

Bidet Toilet Seat Electrical Outlet Requirements FAQ | BidetKing.com

What type of electrical outlets do bidet toilet seats require? Bidet toilet seats require GFCI protected 3 prong grounded outlets of at least 15 amps. How much power do bidet seats draw? Tank type bidet seats generally draw a maximum of 600W at their peak, while tankless type bidet seats draw...

bidetking.com

 

[Afjes]

Other very good reference books to learn electrical theory and understanding how residential electrical works and methods of wiring for receptacles, lights, breaker panels etc are Black and Decker Complete Wiring. Just a sample of one of their books. NOTE: These books work with the NEC (National Electric Code). New edition comes out every three years. When purchasing these books always check to see what edition of the NEC it covers. Sometimes people buy used books on a site like eBay and end up with books with very old codes which may cause issues down the line. The Black and Decker books are excellent references and really help the DIYer.

 

[Schibig87]

Good Evening,
I am relieved to read your suggestion for the Black & Decker book.
It’s what I bought early on & have referenced along the way
Thank you once again.

Do you have any thoughts regarding the plug on neutral breakers. My panel is compatible for these .
I have only wired the basic 20 or 15 amp

 

[Afjes]

I am relieved to read your suggestion for the Black & Decker book.
It’s what I bought early on & have referenced along the way
Thank you once again.

Do you have any thoughts regarding the plug on neutral breakers. My panel is compatible for these .
I have only wired the basic 20 or 15 amp

Glad you got the books before hand.

Plug-on neutral breakers are good. Especially in larger panels that have many GFCI and AFCI breakers as you end up with less wires (the darn curly ones) that take up more space in the panel and one more connection you have to check. As long as your panel is rated for them and you use the breakers that are only rated for your panel you are good. Remember, just because a breaker fits in your panel does not mean it is rated for that specific panel.

What other circuits are you planning on wiring other than 15 and 20 amp receptacles/outlets and will they require GFCI and or AFCI breakers/protection.

If any of the circuits require AFCI and GFCI protection be sure to get a breaker that is "dual function" AFCI and GFCI not just AFCI combo or combination there is a difference. The AFCIs earlier on were just AFCI but now they are CAFCI. The earlier protected only one type of arc fault whereas now the CAFCI (C.ombination AFCI) protects both arc faults series and parallel but again is not a dual function.

 

[Schibig87]

Glad you got the books before hand.

Plug-on neutral breakers are good. Especially in larger panels that have many GFCI and AFCI breakers as you end up with less wires (the darn curly ones) that take up more space in the panel and one more connection you have to check. As long as your panel is rated for them and you use the breakers that are only rated for your panel you are good. Remember, just because a breaker fits in your panel does not mean it is rated for that specific panel.

What other circuits are you planning on wiring other than 15 and 20 amp receptacles/outlets and will they require GFCI and or AFCI breakers/protection.

If any of the circuits require AFCI and GFCI protection be sure to get a breaker that is "dual function" AFCI and GFCI not just AFCI combo or combination there is a difference. The AFCIs earlier on were just AFCI but now they are CAFCI. The earlier protected only one type of arc fault whereas now the CAFCI (C.ombination AFCI) protects both arc faults series and parallel but again is not a dual function.

I appreciate your responses immensely!
I have a Siemens PN Series panel, therefore, I bought all Siemens breakers making sure that each one had the proper CAFCI & GFCI rating for & labeled plug on. This included my electric range and the clothes dryer plus any dedicated circuits.
I chose to protect the kitchen required 2 circuits by GFCI/CAFCI breaker vs. CAFCI & stand alone receptacles protecting the down line- Hope that will be ok- I saw a lot of back and forth regarding using a breaker to protect both.
I found it interesting the plug on breakers ran $10-$15 less than the ones with the curly neutral.