Old mountain well seal

[Mountain Fella]

I need some guidance on my well situation. The submersible pump and drop pipe was replaced about 10 years ago. The discharge pipe is 1 1/4 sch 80 pvc and I believe it to be over 300’ deep. The well is about 150’ from home in a shed with a concrete pad. The seal plate is a little over 6” diameter.

My main goal is to sanitize my well and pipes. When considering this I see that the job may grow into also replacing the well seal. The bolts are very corroded and it seems to be bearing all of the weight. Further, it is basically at grade and has seen plenty of runoff over the years.

Long-term I would like to remove the seal, extend the casing, replace the seal with proper load support, and dig a ditch around the pump house to divert runoff.

My current budget for this is minimal so if I could still sanitize the well and system for clean water and dig the ditch to divert groundwater so I can address the seal at a later date that would be best.

Is there any way to accomplish a sanitization without removing the seal? If not, how should I go about this? Get a hoist and pipe clamp to support the weight then try to undo/cut the bolts?

I appreciate any advice or tips. I have iron bacteria in my lines and it’s getting bad. Hoping I can kill it off and prevent future contamination.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah looks pretty bad. The well seal is what should hold the weight of the pump, pipe, etc. Usually the coupling or tee is sitting on the well seal. I don't know how the seal is gripping the pipe a foot below the coupling? That steel cable is probably holding the weight, which isn't good. Keeps the pipe in compression instead of tension, causing problems from the starting torque. Steel cable is very likely to break and become a rats nest down the well that prevents the pump from ever being removed. Well pipe should always be strong enough not to need rope or cable for safety.

Do not remove the bolts or the nuts will fall down the well with same results as a broken cable or rope. Loosen the bolts only and lift the well weal while also lifting the pipe. The steel cable is coming out of the hole needed to sanitize the well without having to lift the well seal. Lifting the pipe and well seal and moving them to one side is the only other way to get access the the well.

Casing should be 18" above the highest flood mark. The pump will have to be pulled to extend the casing, then the pump can be set back in the well.

Quick coupler and flex hose not good for well pressure either. The well is probably THE most important part of a house. It would be good to spend some money and update the well even if it adds to the mortgage.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Long-term I would like to remove the seal, extend the casing, replace the seal with proper load support, and dig a ditch around the pump house to divert runoff.

As part of that project, I would consider putting in a pitless adapter, even if freezing is not a consideration.

What size is your casing 5-inch? 5-inch casing will be about 5.5 inch OD. With steel casing, you get the casing extension welded on. If you are in a no-freeze area, the pitless could be above ground in the new extension.

With a pitless adapter, the pitless carries the weight, and the well cap can be readily removed for sanitizing.

Is that corrugated pipe carrying the water at the top of picture 4488?