Nothing to Screw Replacement Closet Flange To

[Zonk]

Hi all,
Just removed the rusted closet flange, went to install the replacement and noticed that there is too much space around the toilet flange (see picture).

This is a pipe in a concrete foundation. The empty space is from the pipe to the concrete.

Any suggestions for attaching the closet flange?

Thank you all!
-- Stuck and confused

 

[Reach4]

That's your new flange, or the remnants of the old one?

You could put in a repair ring that has ears/tabs, and screw the ears to the existing concrete.
PASCO 21013 and Superior 21015 are repair rings with mounting tabs outside.

Alternatively, you would put mortar down the hole and screw to that after the mortar hardened.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Zonk]

I removed the old flange. The pictures show the pipe only.
I didn't see a flange with tabs at the HW store today, but it might work.

See new picture with the repair ring, you can get an idea of the spacing.
Took 2 at the same angle for another look.

The red tabbed ring just might work though, if I can find it.

 

[Zonk]

Just found this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NEXT-by-Danco-HydroSeat-Toilet-Flange-Repair-10672X/204403879

Looks like it might work.

 

[Reach4]

HD also carries Superior 21015. Hydroseat should work nicely. I originally thought that you put wax both below and above. It is designed so the wax goes only below, and the rubber fits against the bottom of the toilet, not requiring wax on top. With the wax being set under then hydroseat, you should be able to add shims to prevent rocking, without worry about disturbing the wax. When you drop a toilet on wax, you have to be careful to only drop, and not decompress the wax.

 

[Zonk]

Thank you @Reach4 for your help and suggestions, I have some options to try today.

 

[Jadnashua]

Zonk, that repair ring you bought is designed to have that inner rim slide into a slot in the old flange body that locks them together once it is closed back up and the screws attached to the floor. If it won't go into slots, it's not designed for what you're trying to do. That still won't help anchoring it to the floor, though.

Something like hydraulic cement sets up pretty quickly and bonds things pretty well.

Can't tell from your pictures, but that blue flange needs to end up above the floor level a certain distance when done for it to seal. It's designed as a wax-less unit, at least between the toilet and the top of the flange. It looks like your old flange was installed on the concrete floor before the tile was added. They're designed to be installed on TOP of the FINISHED floor. YOu can compensate some with the wax ring, but that unit needs to be at a specified height above the FINISHED floor to seal.

 

[Chris Milot]

Yep, I just went through this exact thing. Removed the rusted part of the old flange leaving the plastic part still attached as it is cemented in to the drain pipe just like yours (sounds like you thought you removed the entire flange when you actually just removed the metal part of the flange)

I used one of those metal repair flanges that you have in the picture that separates into 2 pieces. Put one in at a time and the metal lip needs to slide into the groove of the old flange plastic piece that is still attached to your drain. Once both pieces are in the 2 pieces attach to each other with 2 screws. Then used 3 tap on screws and screwed the new repair flange to the concrete.