New Pressure Tank Installation

OK, to answer Lligetfa's question... I have not been able to confirm a bleeder valve is down inside the well casing. I can try this weekend and post back with the results. So if there is a bleeder valve I need to plug it, I will need to pull out or partially the submersible pump as LLigetfa recommended??? I have no idea how deep the well is. Couple hundred feet...???
 
Sorry for missing his question: I have not been able to confirm if a bleeder is down inside the well casing. I will this weekend.

Will I need to pull the submersible pump or partially pull it as Lligetfa suggested? I have no idea how deep the well is but I was assume a couple hundred feet or so...???

Should I get a different type of tank?
 
Will I need to pull the submersible pump or partially pull it as Lligetfa suggested?
The drop pipe including submersible pump, will need to be pulled partially upward, usually about 5', only until the the bleeder valve or drain hole can be accessed. If there is a bleeder valve, that should be removed completely.

Any remaining hole in the drop pipe will then need to be sealed completely as the drop pipe will be subjected to higher that previous pressure between the pump and CSV.

Not understanding your comment regarding baby powder since shaving cream is often utilized to check for suction leaks.
 
The drop pipe including submersible pump, will need to be pulled partially upward, usually about 5', only until the the bleeder valve or drain hole can be accessed. If there is a bleeder valve, that should be removed completely.

Any remaining hole in the drop pipe will then need to be sealed completely as the drop pipe will be subjected to higher that previous pressure between the pump and CSV.

Not understanding your comment regarding baby powder since shaving cream is often utilized to check for suction leaks.
Ha! I didnt know about using shaving cream...I literally "clapped" around all of the fittings with baby powder to see if I could see air being sucked in.

I will give it a whirl this weekend. So once I remove the bleeder valve and seal any other holes, I should remove the check valve as well?
 
Hello,
I recently installed a vertical 86 gallon AO Smith pressure tank on my submersible well. Everything looks great, new plumbing and no leaks! Did it right the first time or so I thought! The problem I am having is that it appears that the tank only fills with water to 1/5 capacity (based off condensation line on tank - see pic). The pump only ran for approximately 2 minutes before it cutoff. I verified the pressure switch cuts in correctly at 38 psi and out at 60 psi and the pump works like it should.

Here are the details:

1. Verified No Leaks
2. There is a new 40/60 pressure switch and confirmed cut in and out.
3. 1" water line from well head to tank to the house
4. Submersible pump is wired for 240v
5. Verified 38 PSI on tank

There is great pressure inside the house. I understand that the tank wont completely fill with water, just thought there would be more that what's currently showing. I have bled the water line to the house by opening all the valves and then closing to see if the tank would fill up more but it did not.
What am I missing? Thoughts / Suggestions?
What was the reason for making these changes to the original system?
 
What was the reason for making these changes to the original system?
GF's Dad had literally 500 plus gallon tank for his farm / garden. it was obscenely large and unnecessary. Had to move the thing with an excavator. Thought a simple tank change would do the trick....definitely learning a lesson here...
 
It would be interesting to put a combination gauge (vacuum and pressure both) on the input side of the check valve, where the snifter valve was.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/277299232899 Seems incredibly cheap.
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The 150 psi pressure side would be called for unless you think your pump cannot do more than 100 at the surface.

If the pressure drops into vacuum when the pump shuts off, and then rises to zero, I expect a vacuum leak.

Sometimes you could fix a PVC fitting glued joint leak by sucking in primer and then cement, or cement with pvc dissolved into it, into the leaky place.
 
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GF's Dad had literally 500 plus gallon tank for his farm / garden. it was obscenely large and unnecessary. Had to move the thing with an excavator. Thought a simple tank change would do the trick....definitely learning a lesson here...
That obscenely large tank was installed for a reason, that you may have to deal with in the future. What size well and pump are you working with?
 
It would be interesting to put a combination gauge (vacuum and pressure both) on the input side of the check valve, where the snifter valve was.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/277299232899 Seems incredibly cheap.View attachment 106098

The 150 psi pressure side would be called for unless you think your pump cannot do more than 100 at the surface.

If the pressure drops into vacuum when the pump shuts off, and then rises to zero, I expect a vacuum leak.

Sometimes you could fix a PVC fitting glued joint leak by sucking in primer and then cement, or cement with pvc dissolved into it, into the leaky place.
Interesting idea....
 
That obscenely large tank was installed for a reason, that you may have to deal with in the future. What size well and pump are you working with?
I am uncertain of the pump size. Seems like there is a 4" casing. That ridiculously large tank was an old farmers way of making something work. I was watering the house, yard, barn, garden and about 16 acres. Only house and yard is needed.
 
I am uncertain of the pump size. Seems like there is a 4" casing. That ridiculously large tank was an old farmers way of making something work. I was watering the house, yard, barn, garden and about 16 acres. Only house and yard is needed.
The control box in the lower left of the photo should provide some information on the pump. Also, post a photo of the wellhead to determine if pulling the pump can be tackled by hand.
 
I just had to replace that last week. The other one was full of dirt dobbers and various debris. Its for a 3 wire submersible pump and is 1HP like the previous. See the photo for the well head. Thanks for the help!!!
 

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I just had to replace that last week. The other one was full of dirt dobbers and various debris. Its for a 3 wire submersible pump and is 1HP like the previous. See the photo for the well head. Thanks for the help!!!
In my area a well like that has a pump hung on galvanized pipe, you may need that trackhoe to elevate for a look.
 
I have a thinline/trimline "4 inch" pump (OD 3.75) down my 4 inch steel casing. If I ever have to replace that, I plan to have a 3-inch SQ pump, with a flow inducer, installed. That flow inducer will be about 3.5 inch OD. This is to prevent getting stuck. When the old pump gets pulled, I hope it does not get stuck on the way out.

There is no problem with even a standard "4 inch pump" in a 4-inch PVC casing.
 
Had to go out of town unexpectedly. I will try to take a look this week or weekend. Keep everyone posted!
 
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