New deck mount tub faucet and rough in questions

[Jsmallberries]

1) Doing a shower/tub remodel. Raising the dro- in deck up 3 inches or so. What is the best way to plumb this to the new rough in control valves? Don't think Pex is flexible enough, what about regular steel braided supply lines? No access once installed. Other?

2)The new rough in valves that connect to the faucet one of the ends is bent out of shape(see photos) is this usable or replace it? Can't see how I can get that back to round once it's bent like that.

3) Since I'll be raising the tub deck up, for the tub drain and over flow, what are my best options?

 

[Breplum]

They make tools to reshape copper. The tool has an inside shaper and an outside, both are tapered. ez-pezy.
You can't use braided SS flex or anything with nuts/washers without permanent access panel.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jsmallberries]

Thanks for the reply. What are my options with no access.

Here is what was used when the house was built 25 years ago. What type of connection is that?

 

[Jsmallberries]

So Pex would be a good choice under there?

 

[GReynolds929]

You can use pex, copper, or CPVC. I personally would not use CPVC.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

That looks rough as a cobb with that cpvc rigged up to the mess.......

The delta faucet will bend correctly without any issues at all..... I would probably
try to find something heavier duty that those shitty plastic supply lines and I would
also think about giving the next poor bastard an access panel to get into that mess
if he every has to

 

[Jsmallberries]

Thanks for the replies,

I'm stuck with CPVC supply coming up from the concrete, not much room to work with. (photo)

I need to carefully cut the brittle, easy to crack CPVC and transition away from the concrete and overflow. Maybe CPVC right angle, so it's at least a glued fitting back there and not a quick connect or crimp. What would be the best approach to move away from behind the overflow?

The faucet is at an angle to the top corner(photo)
Since the surround will be tiled, no access, don't the supply lines underneath need to be somewhat flexible so I can pull them up to secure it with the tub slightly elevated and then lowering it down

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

I would suggest gently cutting off the cpvc and throwing on a couple of sharkbite coupling and extending it up
above the concrete in copper or pex , then whatever works from there up to the new Delta faucets..

 

[Jsmallberries]

Thanks Mark,

I couldn't fit the sharkbite deburr tool because of the pipe being up against the concrete. Was able to clean it up an extend with CPVC and will use Pex from there.

The hot water pipe is the lowest point in the plumbing system, had a hard time keeping it dry enough to glue it. Failed the first time and had to cut it lower and a 2nd time.

What is the workaround for that?

 

[Reach4]

One workaround would be to have used a SharkBite coupler to connect the CPVC to PEX. That can be useful for wet pipes. The diameter might have been too big for the space however.

To remove water from the pipe, I think you could have sucked the water out with a 3/8 or 7/16 OD tube and a wet vacuum. This presumes that water was not being added due to a leaky stop valve.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

Whatever works best for you.... that is a pretty nasty situation

adapt to it however you think is best.... I have found that the sharkbite couplings
and elbows have never failed me when attaching them to cpvc pipe...

good luck

 

[Jeff H Young]

different opinions shark bites are legal and many people not just DIY but Pros too have trust . I shy away but yea used them without issue . nothing is forever including underslab CPVC so I doubt the sharkbite woulds be the weakest link . my opinion though is not to have excess stress on any joints the less the better going to pex from the cpvc w sharkbite is legal and common so have at it actually id be more woried about old cpvc than a new sharkbite though like i said im not crazy about them

 

[Jsmallberries]

Yep, CPVC over 25 years old now, it cracks when cut with a ratchet cutter, brittle plastic with heavy metal fittings, plus the glue degrades over time, all under slab. Waiting for the other shoe to drop.......

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

different opinions shark bites are legal and many people not just DIY but Pros too have trust . I shy away but yea used them without issue . nothing is forever including underslab CPVC so I doubt the sharkbite woulds be the weakest link . my opinion though is not to have excess stress on any joints the less the better going to pex from the cpvc w sharkbite is legal and common so have at it actually id be more woried about old cpvc than a new sharkbite though like i said im not crazy about them

I just installed a water softener in a brand new home and
everything looked good in the mechanical room where the
main manifold was located... all new Wirsbo Aquapex pipe...
I ended up capping off a pex faucet line that was in the way
of the softener location with a sharkbite cap and I still secured it off
extra good with gorilla tape just because I could ( its a stich in time and I sleep better )

then I go to the down stairs bathroom and flush out the system and
look down at the stops behind the pedistle lavatory..
they are sharkbite stops thrown onto the pex coming out of the wall.....with pretty chrome plastic
sleeves over the pex to make it look like metal stub outs......
and under the kitchen sink their are a bunch of
those shitty white push pull stops that I totally despise...

All I can say is I guess they will last for a good 10 -15 years more or less
but probably no where near as long as soldered brass stops on copper stub outs.

The world and quality work is all going to hell fast..

 

[Jsmallberries]

Hey, I'm unable to come up with away to plumb and install the new rough in valves and deck mounted tub spout. At new construction circa 2000, they didn't attach the controls on the deck surround but they drilled right through the deck of the fiberglass/acrylic tub, in an area that looks like they damaged the structural integrity of the tub.

Current holes are 1 inch, new rough in valves require 1 1/2 inch opening. I could use a step down bit to widen, but if I plumb it this way, there is no way to remove the tub unless something broken out, once the deck tiling is completed

Besides leaving an access panel, any other options?

 

[Jsmallberries]

Figured out this hybrid approach by making a "deck" under the fixture holes. Had to set all to line up 100% when the tub drops in at the estimated final height.