Need to replace my well pump - questions...

[jeffeg]

This is long – sorry…


Bought this house about 6 months ago. At that time, the well pump motor spun but no water, not even gurgling - figured i would fix it after the rains were done. The rains are over and now the motor doesn't even spin. Luckily, the previous owner left notes, hopefully they are accurate...


Background: this is an irrigation well (for 1/2 acre) - drilled in 1977 to 102', pump set at 93'. original pump 1/3HP 230v Peabody Barnes. 1" galvanized pipe, no pitless, the discharge pipe goes up to the well cap. Originally, the well pump went to a 1200 gal storage tank, then a distribution pump did the irrigating. Guessing - the distribution pump seized and the well pump was replumbed for direct irrigation - that is the configuration now. The well pump has a pressure switch and a high/low level cutout contactor. Wiring going down the well - 2 power and three smaller wires coming from the level cutout. I’ve included a picture of the pump house.

I feel confident that I can pull the pump with help. With a trial lift, it seemed to be about 60-70 pounds, give or take. My issue is to not drop the pump in the well when I cut the pipe. Looking at the forums I saw a link to some kind of pipe vice or clamp, but it was outdated. Question -- What would be a good (affordable) vice/clamp for my pull? ..and any other advice is more than welcome.


Here are my thoughts & questions on replacement:

1. replace the well pump with a Red Lion 1/2HP – seems to be ok quality/price (?)

2. replace the galvanized pipe with black poly – the outlet size of the RL pump is 1-1/4” but reading the forums 1” works. For my application, direct irrigation, would the 1-1/4” significantly outperform the 1”, because it is almost twice the price?

3. Ground – there is a ground rod out at the well for the remote breaker box, but no ground wire to the pump – do I need to add this?

4. Safety rope – good to add? What kind of rope to use if needed?

5. One or two SS clamps per barbed fitting?

6. I’m sure the level sensors are rotted – worth replacing? Are they expensive?


I’m sure I’ll have more questions… (sigh) this will be fun though.


Thanks! Jeff

 

[Craigpump]

I wouldn't pull that by hand..... But if you're so inclined what you really need is foot jack, you pull the pipe through it and the jaw closes to hold the pipe in place. They are the ONLY type of clamp I use on steel pipe.

For a pump, I'd use a quality unit such as Grundfos or Goulds with Grundfos being my first choice. Yes, it should be properly grounded & bonded per the NEC book. Also use proper pump wire downhole, not household wire

Forget using probes, that's just one more set of wires hanging in the well, instead use a Pump Tek or some other easily serviceable device.

I hate poly pipe downhole, but for 100' setting its ok, just use 160 lb pipe. With a stainless pump you need a stainless male X insert adapter to couple the pump to the pipe. Double clamped.

Never, ever use a "safety rope".

 

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[Valveman]

Wow I haven't heard of a Peabody Barnes in years. The facts that you have a cistern and booster pump, a liquid level probe in the well, and a 1/3HP pump all show that this is a low producing well. When you heard the pump spinning but not pumping any water, I wonder if the pump was even in water at the time. The well maybe dry.

Pull the pump. Check the water level in the well. If there is any water in the well you will need to install a pump to test the well output. My guess is if it makes any water at all, it will just be 1-2 GPM or so. If that is the case you will need to put the cistern and booster pump back in action. 1 GPM is 1440 gallons per day, but you need a cistern to store it so you can pump 10 GPM for a couple hours when irrigating.

Yeah the liquid level probes are old technology. A Pumptec will work but I prefer a Cycle Sensor to protect a pump from dry run and/or rapid cycling.

 

[jeffeg]

Thanks for the replies. I like the pumptec/cycle sensor info.

The pump being dry was a thought of mine too, but, I did look down the well with a flashlight. It's difficult guessing distance looking down a 6" pipe, but guessing, the water level looked to be about 50 feet down, but near record rains in Cali this year.

Another question - Since this will be a manual irrigating affair, can I skip the pressure sensor contactor? It would make the install really clean.

 

[Valveman]

Another question - Since this will be a manual irrigating affair, can I skip the pressure sensor contactor? It would make the install really clean.

Irrigation only pumps can be operated manually or with a pump start relay from an irrigation timer. You must always have a open water line when you turn on the pump, and make sure not to close all water lines while the pump is running. You can even use hydrants or faucets if you make sure the hydrant is open before starting the pump.

But if you want the pump to come on or off automatically when you open or close a hydrant or turn on a sprinkler, you will need a pressure tank/pressure switch.

Biggest problem with manually controlling a pump or using a pump start relay is that the pump can be on and even when no water lines are open, and the pump will melt down in about 10 minutes.