Moving Washer - remodel

[havefun]

Hello Everyone,

Hoping I can get some input on moving my washer, as part of a main floor powder room and laundry room (adjoining non-load bearing wall) remodel made necessary after discovering a slow leak due to a baseboard nail through side of bottom plate, The 2" drain pipe was for vanity, and washer/utility. Puncture has been there for at least a decade, prior to buying the house. Floor and a large amount of drywall are currently removed, so I figured I might as well make wifey happy while it is all apart.

I've included my best attempt at drawing existing and new proposed DWV layout, and a pic of the existing drain/vent.

Existing setup has the washer downpipe sharing the utility tub p-trap. During my reading up on this, discovered the downpipe wasn't to code, as it was hidden inside of old utility tub cabinet, substantially below the top of the washer tub. As well, from what I understand, washer downpipe and onward through drain are supposed to be 2" now. We would like to move the washer from the side wall in corner nearest doorway to the far wall that is opposite doorway. Also, existing supply lines for utility tub and vanity will be moved back into the bottom plate, theycurrently come up a few inches into the room.

My intention is to use a washerbox with 2" drain at the recommended height, keeping downpipe and p-trap with cleanout in the wall with an access panel to the p-trap, keeping p-trap at specified height. Wall is 2x4 construction. Then use a wye +45 fitting into the 3" pipe from toilet, that passes pretty much underneath this point. The 3" pipe turns from horizontal to vertical onto the top of the stack. There doesn't appear to be any other venting other than the 1 1/2" that comes up from the vanity/utility drain, which goes off into the joist space. Presumably joining up with the main stack somewhere, and out the roof. Two story home.
As for the venting, I'd rather not cut holes through every stud in the wall to get back to the exiting vent. Pretty sure this is against code, so I plan to go up the stud cavity and then along the ceiling joist space to meet the existing vent.

My questions:

1) Do I have everything correct?
2) If so, is venting sufficient? Some conflicting reading indicates that I might have too many DFU for the 1 1/2" vent
3) A combo Wye or wye + 45 is the correct fitting to join the 3"?
4) A Tee would be used where the vertical existing vent and my new vent pipe come together?
5) As I write this, I realize that I haven't even considered if there is anything special regarding bringing hot and cold supply to the washer. Can I just branch off the existing supply lines that feed the utility tub?

I'm in Ontario, Canada. Once I'm done designing this, I plan to reach out to the city and verify if a permit is needed for the work. I'm assuming that it is.

Thanks in advance for any feedback,

Rob

 

[havefun]

I realize that I missed drawing the revent after the utility tub in my new image. It would be retained from the existing.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Normally you would be able to wet vent the toilet with the lav.
In Washington, the laundry tray isn't considered a wet vent option. So that being the case, the lav would wet vent the toilet. The laundry tray would come in downstream of that, as would the washer.
You have the washer on it's own 2" and vented in the second drawing which is good.

 

[havefun]

Thanks for the feedback, Terry.

Is using a 1 1/2" revent from the new washer location tying into the lav 1 1/2" vent sufficient?

Tying the 2" drain from the new washer location downstream of where the lav and tray drain into the 3" running from the toilet is ok?

I did the new design based on another drawing that I saw from this webpage: https://www.askthebuilder.com/washing-machine-venting-diagram/, which is essentially what I have, except that my layout includes the laundry tray.

I then read this in Ontario Building code, 7.5.2.1 (d) - the water closets are installed downstream of all other fixtures. Doesn't this break that rule, where the existing lav/tray drain joins the 3" pipe, and by putting the washer drain where I have?

Best Regards,

Rob

 

[havefun]

I think I answered my own question regarding downstream. Found an explanation that downstream in this reference applies to fixtures connected to the wet vent, not the toilet drain. Since I'm using a dry revent for the washer, it doesn't apply. Do I have that right?

Also I believe that table 7.5.8.3 covers my question regarding vent size. I'm allowed to use 1 1/2" vent for the washer. Where the dry revent from washer joins the Lav wet vent, I would have a total of 8.5 fixture units, 4 for toilet (not sure if this should be included) and 1.5 for each of the lav & tray (wet vent) plus 1.5 for washer (dry vent). Based on the 8.5 fixture units and rounding up, I would be using line 3 of the table, with 1 1/2" pipe, this allows me a total of 15 meters of vent, or approx 50 ft. At most its only 15 ft to the exterior wall of the house , where the horizontal vent pipe joins the stack.

Best Regards,

Rob

 

[havefun]

So, I gave up trying to get the 3" connection in place and called in a established plumbing company in the area, to make the connection into the 3", and put in the washer trap, and vent.
Felt stupid after the guy cut off the toilet bend, pushed everything back, and put the fitting in place nice and fast.

However, I believe he misjudged the fitting location, and ended up with the vertical 2" not close enough to the stud. This left him without enough space for the p-trap. He ended up putting in the trap backwards, and now I have what is in the attached picture. I questioned him on it, and he told me not to worry, it will work fine. He ran water directly from the cold supply, fully open, down the washer drain for a good 2 minutes, no gurgles, everything seemed to work fine.

It's 2" inch abs, the space between the trap inside wall and inside wall of the sanitary tee is about 3". The trap seal will be approx 6" deep. Is this going to cause me issues?