M310 Flow Switch Stuck "on"

[Dice]

Hi guys,

I have a Stenner chlorine pump plugged in to a Grid Controls 1" M310 Pre-wired Flow Switch. My problem is that the flow switch keeps getting stuck "on" long after water has stopped flowing. The switch has been in service for about 1.5 years now, and while I have had this problem before it has been able to be resolved by cleaning the flow switch paddles and / or adjusting the sensitivity of the flow switch "screw"; however, these two methods are no longer working. I have resorted to shutting my Stenner pump off completely for 24 hours, turning the pump back on, and then sometimes the flow switch goes back to operating normally for a few to several hours until getting stuck again. I have noticed that it does not matter if I am washing my hands (short amount of time water is flowing through switch) or if I am doing a load of laundry (long amount of time water is flowing through switch), it still gets stuck "on". Notably there is no trickle or leak of water anywhere that I can detect that might make the flow switch appear to be stuck on, if that makes sense.

Any troubleshooting advice?
Or any recommendations on a reliable residential non-electric chlorine dosing pump?

Thank you!

 

[Reach4]

I think that is a non-proportional (on/off) flow sensor.

Where does your chlorine get injected-- before the pressure tank, or after? I would presume before.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dice]

I think that is a non-proportional (on/off) flow sensor.

Where does your chlorine get injected-- before the pressure tank, or after? I would presume before.

The chlorine is injected inline after my pressure tank and before my contact tank; however, the flow switch is located after my contact tank. After that I have a KL unit, carbon unit, and finally a softening unit.

 

[Reach4]

Here is the problem that exists, even if the parts are working. If your water use is sometimes 1 gpm and other times 5 gpm, but if your peristaltic pump pumps at the same rate all of the time, then the concentration of chlorine will vary a lot.

For injection after the pressure tank, it is best to have a proportional pump that is controlled by a proportional sensor.

If your injection was before the tank, then you could use the pressure switch power output to control a relay that controls the on-off pump. Injection before the pressure tank makes the pressure tank deal with the sediment.

So I don't know an inexpensive way to deal with your problem. I am not a pro.

 

[Dice]

Yes, I do know that this is not a proportional feed system which is something I was going to fix eventually, but for now I just need my current flow switch to operate as it should. Since, after a few mishaps, I have no faith in my local water guy any longer I was hoping someone here would be familiar with this model of flowswitch and be able to advise me as to why it may be getting stuck on instead of switching on and off with water flow as it should.

 

[H2oPro]

Hi Dice, I manufacture the M310-1 and saw your post. The most common reason for the switch staying on is a dirty or fouled flow chamber preventing the float from dropping when flow stops. This can be iron fouling or some other contaminant. Try depressurizing the system, take apart the upper section from the Tee assembly to expose the float, clean the inside surfaces and float with a mild detergent like simple green. Reassemble and test. If the inside of the flow body becomes worn out, scratched up or if PVC cement got into the chamber this can also be a cause of this condition. Make sure the flow switch is level and installed horizontally. If these tips do not resolve the issue please contact me at www.CannonWater.com

Thanks

David Cannon
www.CannonWater.com