Low yield well solution.

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Tim Schulace

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The Cycle Sensor comes with a Nema 4X enclosure you could run through a car wash it seals so well. It can also be first off the breaker before the wires go to the pump.
Well that settles it.

Been watching your videos. Really helpful. Thanks for your help. Will be in touch.
 

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Cary Austin
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Wired like in this drawing you can have as many cisterns filling from the same water pump as needed.
LOW YIELD WELL_and storage with two PK1A.jpg
 

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Thanks, Cary.

My yield is such that I think we will only draw from the cistern, but useful to see all the options.

That is OK. But you still need a separate PK1A control for the well pump, so the individual cisterns can access the well pump as needed. Then you might as well put a tee and ball valve in the line so you can use water directly from the well pump if you ever want.
 

Tim Schulace

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I thought I might use a timer system for the well pump to "sip" water in small increments over a 24 hour period, similar to a Well Manager approach, as I don't want to have any risk of running dry in the well itself. Maybe this approach doesn't work?
 

Tim Schulace

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Wired like in this drawing you can have as many cisterns filling from the same water pump as needed.
View attachment 70560
Cary,

In your schematic above, what if we eliminated the irrigation component and changed the word "house" in your diagram to "second cistern"? What would that system look like? And could you please explain a little more about using the PK1A at the well in conjunction with the Cycle Sensor? I conceptually like the concept of running the pumps at lower amperage, so I'd really like to understand how I could satisfy the needs of two houses, extend the life of my pumps and use less energy; that would be quite the trifecta.
 

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Well I'm well on my way, storage tank In place, got all my wrisbo fittings and pipe, solenoid, check valve, built my flow indcuer since I'm putting a submersible in my storage tank. etc and most important my CSV came in today, so after work I got all my fittings assembled. I'll post an update when I'm done. 99% my well yield supplies us fine, this will take care of the 1% inconvenience though. Luckly years ago when I did the rough in I ran a spare circuit from the genset panel to the pump room, since my booster tank pump is 120v and my well pump is 240, ill be covered during that 1% even during an outage.
 

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Well I'm well on my way, storage tank In place, got all my wrisbo fittings and pipe, solenoid, check valve, built my flow indcuer since I'm putting a submersible in my storage tank. etc and most important my CSV came in today, so after work I got all my fittings assembled. I'll post an update when I'm done. 99% my well yield supplies us fine, this will take care of the 1% inconvenience though. Luckly years ago when I did the rough in I ran a spare circuit from the genset panel to the pump room, since my booster tank pump is 120v and my well pump is 240, ill be covered during that 1% even during an outage.
Which submersible did you go with? How big a tank?
 

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Which submersible did you go with? How big a tank?
It's just a 300 gal tank. Fits through doorways, so I was able to get it in my pump room in my basement. The pump is just a cheaper 120v Hallmark pump. It's very accessible and I got a great deal on it, brand new. If I have issues I'll upgrade it once I know the booster tank is working properly, but the pump will only have to lift 10 feet to upstairs showers, and I run relatively low pressure in my house, so it should have any easy life.
 

Reach4

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Which submersible did you go with? How big a tank?
If not going up much in altitude, a 1/2 hp 10 gpm pump is plenty. Those are cheaper than 1/2 hp 7 gpm pumps and you don't need the pressure that a 1/2 hp 7 gpm pump can generate.

Cheap pumps, like that Halmark, use different gpm ratings. I think they may rated theirs at zero psi, so the gpm number is inflated. Do use a flow inducer sleeve. Cheap and easily home made.
 

slowgsr

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I plumbed my lines to and from the tank, kept the isolation valves closed, but when I added check valve 'D' in the diagram at the well pump, it's messing with my CSV, the check valves are fighting each other?

I loosen the screw on the CSV open my laundry sink, pressure switch kicks the pump on and it wouldn't maintain my 30psi, just shot right up to 42psi and kicked the pump off, and I got a rapid cycle warning.

Loosened the CSV adjustment, repeat, pump kicks in at 25psi and CSV holds, I turn the CSV ever so slightly to try and maintain 30psi, holds 30psi but slowly starts creeping towards 40psi.
turn the tap off, and the tank fills very quickly not 1gpm.

I don't want to waste water by messing with it constantly, so ill wait for something to use water.

Could the check valve be causing this?


Edit. After some adjustment it seems to be fine, got my wife to shower and I adjusted, I should have let the CSV longer to react after fine adjustment, I bumped the cut off to 45psi, and got the valve to hold 35psi during the shower, and cut in is still the same at 25psi, air tank pressure is 23psi.
 
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slowgsr

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I have it finished works well, can't even notice the switch over. I would like to share photos but it says the file is too large, I am not good with computers.

If I email them to someone could you upload them?

Thanks
 

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I have it finished works well, can't even notice the switch over. I would like to share photos but it says the file is too large, I am not good with computers.

If I email them to someone could you upload them?

Thanks

Yes you can email them to me at caustin@cyclestopvalves.com. I open them with Paint. Adjust the size to like 30% and save. This will get the file size down so it will fit. Then hit "upload a file".
 

Reach4

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Yes you can email them to me at caustin@cyclestopvalves.com. I open them with Paint. Adjust the size to like 30% and save. This will get the file size down so it will fit. Then hit "upload a file".
Also, if it's a photo, save as a JPG if not that already. If it is a drawing made with a paint-like program, its usually better to save as a PNG.
 

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Cary Austin
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Why is there a 5 gal bucket in the cistern? To help keep the pipe from getting air in it? To collect pebbles?

The 5 gal bucket is half full of cement to hold and weigh down the pipe needed to attach the float switch. There is not usually anything in a cistern to attach the float switch to, and the bucket with a PVC pipe in it works very well.
 
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