Looking for Input on water strategy

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OurlittleFarm

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Hey all, thanks for such a cool forum, and extra thanks for taking a look at my question!

I have got a well in the Cleveland Area in a house we just purchased.

Some facts:
* We have 4 little girls, and 6 of us total
* The previous owner ran a well drilling company, and died about a decade ago. Supposedly its a crazy deep well, and has a lot of water (which we have seen, we have yet to have any kind of issue with lack of water
* Currently the system has a greensand filter and softener (age unknown), we have been maintaining both the purple permanganate and salt.
* Water (from the head, tap cold and tap hot) all smell, not really like eggs, it stinks, but I think it may be iron given the below
* Toilet has brown streaks
* After showering in the water, myself and a few others broke out in hives
* The greensand system uses the entire container of purple every two days
* Just recently had well sanitized

Water test results (done at home, kit from cleanwaterstore dot com) from the untreated water
* Alkalinity: 200ppm
* Iron: 3.5ppm
* Copper: 1.3ppm
* ph: 8.5
* TDS: 1450
* Hydrogen Sulfide 0.3
* Also, when running a torch over the water tap, the flame turns yellow (instead of blue), implying some gas (natural?) coming through
* Hardness: 100
* Nitrate, Nitrite, Chlorine, Manganese, Coliform, E.Coli, Pesticide all were 0/negative

My plan:
* My assumption at this point is that the greensand is either in need of replacement, or completely failed. Additionally, daily/bi-daily need to replenish the purple is not practical for us, so I am going to decomm the greensand
* I found a brand new, 10GPM in 5GPM out RO system on eBay (meant for another project but got cancelled) I got for $2900. Full spec attached
* Got a 12GPM UV system with controller I got for $500, had 9 months of use prior
* Intending to add two laters of spindown to prefix the entire thing
* Also thinking about adding a Pro-Ox pre-filter to the RO system
* Be cause of the high flow RO, I am hoping to keep the pressurized output of the RO system, with a 35 gallon pressurized storage tank, directly to the house mains
* I am planning to keep two of every consumable replacement part on hand.


I put together a diagram, screenshot below, and I attached a PDF with better detail
1650295032619.png

(full vectorized/zoomable PDF attached)

What I am looking for
Any words of wisdom, or significant changes of plan to what I am putting together. I already have the UV and RO system, so those are fixed, but we can add/move/remove other pieces as needed. I have plenty of plumbing experience, but this is my first whole-home water processing facility.

Thanks for your time!
 

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  • data-R4F40-HVP-2.pdf
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  • Water System.pdf
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Valveman

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I hope you get your water quality problem figured out because with four little girls you already have your hands full. Lol! I am moving this to the Softener forum where you should get more help. I can help with volume and pressure but not much good with water quality issues.
 

OurlittleFarm

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Indeed, thanks!

Does this still qualify for softeners forum even though the main issue is TDS which (so far as I understand) aren't addressed by softeners?
 

OurlittleFarm

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Updated version attached. Removed aeration tank as I got a Pro-Ox that is included, and I added in the softener that I already have.
 

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  • Water System.pdf
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John Gayewski

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What does your anode look like? Have you tried heating your water above 140 for a period of time? I guess what I'm saying is, do you know there aren't bugs living in your water heater?
 

Reach4

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Big improvement in your diagram. Pro-ox (which is a brand name) media takes a lot of gpm to backwash.

I don't know what a "sequential discharge" unit is.

You need a 5 micron filter before the UV so there will be no particles big enough for bacteria to hide behind.

I suspect you have H2S. Use media that should help that. I don't know off the top of my head.

Add boiler drain valves between stages. You can use them as sample points, and they will accept garden hose thread pressure gauges.
 

ditttohead

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I would start with a true lab test. You will be spending a lot of money on equipment and it needs to be designed properly based on a detailed water test. You also need to do some basic tests at the well head and inside the house to determine of the copper or other metals are coming from the plumbing or naturally occurring, these take different treatment methods to solve. Use this link and check out the well standard test. NTLWATERTEST

As to your system design, what do you consider "non-potable"? for the house.

Your system can be designed many ways, but a full battery test would be helpful. There are many great ways to design a water treatment system but it is a little more involved when the water is difficult as yours is.

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