Lights dim on pump start

[Pete C]

Over the last few weeks I have notice a worsening of the house light dimming that occurs on pump start up.

I have a gould pump. Bought it new in the box from someone on CL maybe 5-6 years ago. It is wired for 110 operation.

I have considered switching it over to 220. I assume it may run better as it is using half the current. Also, I would think this would help with the light dimming on startup.

Another thing I noticed about a week ago was a god awful screech that lasted a second or two on startup. This seems to have gone away. The pump sounds fine once it is running. It does not sound like it has a bad bearing.

What else could cause this? I am wondering about the pressure switch. Once in a great while it hangs up, where I have to go down to the basement and give the switch a thwack with a screwdriver to get it to come on. Could corroded contacts be an issue? Maybe it is having trouble getting enough current on startup. I will open it up and clean the contacts if possible.

Also, my expansion tank has been there as longer than we have (16+ years). It has a fair bit of surface rust. Probably not a bad idea to replace it as well. I have very hard acidic water that has taken out pretty much everything else. Surprised it hasn't eaten through this.

Any recommendations appreciated.

 

[Reach4]

I have considered switching it over to 220. I assume it may run better as it is using half the current. Also, I would think this would help with the light dimming on startup.

You are right.

Another thing I noticed about a week ago was a god awful screech that lasted a second or two on startup. This seems to have gone away. The pump sounds fine once it is running. It does not sound like it has a bad bearing.

What else could cause this? I am wondering about the pressure switch. Once in a great while it hangs up, where I have to go down to the basement and give the switch a thwack with a screwdriver to get it to come on. Could corroded contacts be an issue? Maybe it is having trouble getting enough current on startup. I will open it up and clean the contacts if possible.

I don't know about the screech, but pressure switches are cheap. A clogged nipple can slow the response too. If your nipple is brass, clean it. If the nipple is galvanized, replace it.

Also, my expansion tank has been there as longer than we have (16+ years). It has a fair bit of surface rust. Probably not a bad idea to replace it as well. I have very hard acidic water that has taken out pretty much everything else. Surprised it hasn't eaten through this.

What tank is the current good performer?

Well-X-Trol tanks are good. My Flexcon Challenger is doing very nicely, but it does not face acid water. If things are corrosive outside, Flexcon Flex-lite tanks are fiberglass. https://www.flexconind.com/products/well-tanks/flexlite-well-tanks/

 

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[Valveman]

There would be a lot less current through the centrifugal switch in the motor and everything else if you switch to 230 volt. After 5-6 years the pump has cycled on/off enough to burn the points in the centrifugal switch as well as weaken the capacitor. Bearings are also affected by heat and have a limited number of hours of service built into them. If you are replacing the tank it is a good time to switch to a Cycle Stop Valve control so you can use a much smaller tank while still reducing the cycling. The fewer times the pump cycles, the fewer times the lights will dim, no matter what voltage you are using.