Leveling a Kohler Acrylic tub with feet

[Stuart Richman]

Hi,
First, thank you to everyone who times the time to answer questions. I'm a first time bath room remodeler.

I have a new Kohler tub that has four feet vs "non feet" bottom.
Elmbrook, K-23217-RA

The tub is level left to right, but front to back is out a bit.

What is used to level the feet?

I plan to put motor under the base of tub to make it more solid, but not sure what to use to level feet. The instructions it came with did not mention anything. The instructions say to use construction adhesive under the feet.

Can I use composite material shims, sheet metal?

Also, do I have a slight angle toward back wall to minimize water dripping from edge onto floor?

Thank you

 

[Terry]

With the Kohler Acrylic tubs that have feet, there are two methods I have used.
If the floor is flat and level, then I use the adhesive on the feet.
If the floor is out of level, then using the ledger board on the back wall and shims on the apron to put it where I want it, I depend on the piles of mortar underneath for the support I need.
Kohler shows a bed of mortar, one or two inches. This doesn't help the installer. You can't be perfect and guess how much you really need. The small piles, much like the four legs, will support and because they are in spots, the excess mortar moves over into the voids and allows the tub to drop down to the ledger board and the apron shims. Give a little time, and the mortar sets up hard as rock.

This is a Kohler Archer tub that I installed.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Stuart Richman]

So let me repeat it back to make sure i understand.

1. I install a ledger board along the back wall (currently do not have one)

2. Use shims under the apron to level the tub.

3. Tub is now resting on shims and ledger board.

3. Once I know it's level, remove tub & place piles of motar all around the base (not under the feet) and place the tub back on the shims and ledger board.

4. Allow motar to cure/dry and remove shims.

So , with this method, the tub will probably not be resting n the feet on the apron side since it has been shimmed up.

Thank you,

 

[Terry]

You got it. It will be a nice tub for you too.

 

[Stuart Richman]

You got it. It will be a nice tub for you too.

Thank you.

One more question. Do installers make a slight angle toward the back wall to help prevent water from running out toward the curtain and onto the floor? If so, how much, maybe a 1/4 inch?

Thank you

 

[Stuart Richman]

You got it. It will be a nice tub for you too.

Hi, Before I set the tub in motar, just want to double check the following. It's ok to have the apron off the ground by 3/4 inch on the left and 1/2 inch on the right in order to get it level. The motar will support the tub where the feet are now not touching..correct?

Thank you

(Any hints to locate feet so motar is not placed under them?)

 

[Stuart Richman]

Tub in, set, leveled and no leaks., also learned to solder (installed cut off ball valves) ...Thank you for everyone's help. now on to new control valve, floors and walls.

(I know the valve should have been put in before tub, but wanted to get tub in before my son left for college..still have room to work above tub)

 

[Methodical]

Perfect timing. I am glad I found this topic. I am installing the same tub. I was wandering if the ledger board would be needed. Fortunately, the subfloor for my install is leveled and based on Terry's comment, I can move forth with applying just the adhesive to the feet.

Thanks...

 

[Methodical]

How did your install go?

 

[Doug Henningsen]

So, if the floor IS level, you glue the legs to the existing floor? No mortar bed. Or, is it with a mortar bed in piles and no ledger board?

With the Kohler Acrylic tubs that have feet, there are two methods I have used.
If the floor is flat and level, then I use the adhesive on the feet.
If the floor is out of level, then using the ledger board on the back wall and shims on the apron to put it where I want it, I depend on the piles of mortar underneath for the support I need.
Kohler shows a bed of mortar, one or two inches. This doesn't help the installer. You can't be perfect and guess how much you really need. The small piles, much like the four legs, will support and because they are in spots, the excess mortar moves over into the voids and allows the tub to drop down to the ledger board and the apron shims. Give a little time, and the mortar sets up hard as rock.


QUOTE]

 

[udelslayer]

I know I'm resurrecting the dead thread, but I have a similiar situation here.
I've got a Kohler Expanse 60x32 tub. This thing has 4 feet I assume are 2" PVC pipes embedded in the sled.
It states that if you use a ledger, the warranty is void. Glue down or mortar like the OPs tub.

The feet are not 100% level on a flat surface and can slightly rock. I was thinking of using 2" PVC rings as shims to get it right since I'm going to set it in a bed of mortar, or is that unnecessary if I level it in the mortar anyway? I'd think the feet got to give it some kind of support too.

I need to shim one foot about 1/4 inch to raise the back enough to make it 100% level.

Its gonna be fun to drop this 70lb acryllic tub down in a bed of mortar in this t-t-tight alcove.

Searching all the threads and articles, but not finding direct answers, but I guess thats where skill and experience apply.

 

[Reach4]

Watch out for " a bed of mortar". Instead use the search box above for "piles". That way, the mortar will squish to the exact size needed.

For the shims, I would use plastic or composite shims, rather than cutting pieces of PVC pipe. https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-in-Composite-Shim-12-Bundle-10011700/301757699

 

[Jeff H Young]

Technically you dont need a ledger but Id have no problem using one and good chance Id stray from manufacture but not telling you to . the point is that the main support is coming from the bottom and the ledger carrys no wieght but with movement a 300 pound load plus water in the tub or walking around inside if using as a shower maybe even 2 people so 350 plus pounds a tiny bit of rocking can get things started a ledger board might get 25 or even 50 pounds on it (in an extreme case) nothing is going to break or crack.
personaly Im anal about the shims and Id use flat shims metal or a hard plastic but not wood. mortar or ledger board is optional good insureance

 

[udelslayer]

Thanks for the tips!
I plan on using piles on top of plastic. I gotta get me a bucket scoop.

I thought about the plastic shims. I just put it in the spot and shimmed it from the back with a wood one to see what it took to get to level. I have a couple packs of those plastic U shims but I dont know if they're hard enough. I guess you partially slide it down into the mortar till its level and then stick shims in there if there is a gap? Why wouldnt you figure out the space and glue something onto the feet to guarantee if the tub is pressed down, its 100% level? I ask because if you push it back up with a shim, you're going to get a gap in the mortar.

I think the ledger board is discouraged because of the slope of the back lip. I will investigate my ledger options. Its def going to be a 300lb me in there and 60gal capacity of water (before displacement) isnt light. I boxed in the 2x12s its riding on with blocking glued and screwed. The floor is 99% level and solid when I jump up and down on it.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Thanks for the tips!
I plan on using piles on top of plastic. I gotta get me a bucket scoop.

I thought about the plastic shims. I just put it in the spot and shimmed it from the back with a wood one to see what it took to get to level. I have a couple packs of those plastic U shims but I dont know if they're hard enough. I guess you partially slide it down into the mortar till its level and then stick shims in there if there is a gap? Why wouldnt you figure out the space and glue something onto the feet to guarantee if the tub is pressed down, its 100% level? I ask because if you push it back up with a shim, you're going to get a gap in the mortar.

I think the ledger board is discouraged because of the slope of the back lip. I will investigate my ledger options. Its def going to be a 300lb me in there and 60gal capacity of water (before displacement) isnt light. I boxed in the 2x12s its riding on with blocking glued and screwed. The floor is 99% level and solid when I jump up and down on it.

If the rough edge at the ledger isnt very straight it could add a little chalenge . you could modify on the ledger board theory and put a block or L bracket on each end on a stud . its not realy to hold the tub just distribute the load some . all of this is kind is or kind of can be a bit of a pain but if your shims arent exactly perfect or the mud slumps a bit in one spot all these steps compliment each other in my opinion . an example is if your shim was left out on one leg but its solid on 3 with mortar youll be ok add a ledger plus 3 legs touching and youll definately be good . so its kind of a lot of yaking on this but end results will be good sloppy builds cause issues and even good trademen slip on something but these steps are important for a lifetime or half century build . we dont want 2 years

 

[udelslayer]

I should have read a few posts up a little better I think the mortar is what holds this thing and the leg shims are just to get to level. I see what you mean about 3 legs. the floor is ever so slightly out of level leaning in towards the long back wall. After getting the back wall legs shimmed, I looked really closely from a hole in the closet wall from the other side I cut so that I could check fromunda the tub. It seems like the 2 legs closest to the apron are maybe 1/16 off the floor and the apron is what holds that side. I'm 300lbs. I have gotten in and out of it and it doesnt flex or creak and feels solid. I'm not chancing it yet. I glued the shims to the floor and can pull the tub and place it back without a problem now, remaining level. I might just glue a couple 1/16 shims to those outside legs before I set it down in the mortar.

 

[udelslayer]

Its finally set the 60x32 Kohler Expanse
Used Quikrete Mortar mix brought to a packed "brown sugar" consistency.
Used Piles, could form balls and place them on top of some plastic. Almost one 60lb bag.
Sitting about 1/4in above where I thought it would be. I assume thats because of the packed mortar that is now the base.
Leveled, but didnt lift. Now waiting 24h.
I guess I have to shim the apron edge after cure. Its one of those "integral" systems.

Guess I'll find out tomorrow.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I dont know what you did it dosent take a day to find out if its right. if the pan is level but sitting high its not going to hurt provided the legs are on the ground or shimmed. I want my legs carrying wieght , possibly a ledger board and definately screws rhrough the flange into the studs. the apron bottom edge Id want to resting on edge or shims with caulk and finish floor covering the gap

 

[udelslayer]

I put in a ledger, but its not really holding anything. I put my flange screws through to the studs shimmed and made sure all is level. I think the feet are just there to make sure the apron is at the same height. If its sitting on the feet, they're sitting/surrounded by mortar now. I pretty much packed the whole sled it rides on. I dont think they reached the shims and there is no way for me to get to them. I carefully stood in it today and it feels like walking on a concrete slab. I actually had to lift it twice and look (but "reset" the mortar balls). I could see it was setting things flat but could only squish out so much. Hopefully its not too crumbly. Damn, was I supposed to leave access to the feet? Re-reading the instructions say that its supposed to glued by the feet to the floor if that floor is flat/level OR embedded in a mortar base. I think shimming seemed unnecessary if you're using the mortar.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I think your good