Level toilet on concrete floor

[HomeRepairGuy]

I need to reset our Toto toilet on a concrete floor that is out of level. The floor has the stick on vinyl tiles now so the toilet will sit on the vinyl tiles. The base of the toilet is about 9-3/4" wide and the floor is out of level about 3/16" or 1/4" in that span.

My plan is:

1. Install the toilet without the wax ring.
2. Use long wood shims to level the toilet allowing the shims to stick out. Then tape the wood shims to the floor so they don't move.
3. Outline the base of the toilet using painter's tape so it can be reinstalled exactly in the same position.
4. Remove the toilet.
5. Coat the bottom edge of the toilet that contacts the floor with silicone grease.
6. Reinstall the toilet with a wax ring.
   
7. Bolt the toilet with the two bolts.
8. Force unsanded tile grout under the toilet between the wooden wedges.
9. Let the grout dry so it can hold up the toilet well.
10. Remove the wooden wedges.
    
11. Force unsanded tile grout under the toilet where the wedges were.
12. Allow the grout to dry for 5 days. Then apply grout sealer.

I'm assuming that coating the bottom of the toilet with silicone grease in step-5 will allow removing the toilet later without it sticking to the grout.

Questions for experienced grout users:

1. Will tile grout hold up the toilet for 10 years or more?
2. Will water splashed out from the adjacent tub compromise the integrity of the grout?
3. In step-9 above, how many days to allow the grout to dry to be strong enough to support the toilet so I can remove the wedges?
4. Does grout under a toilet get blackish due to mold? If so, how can I prevent that?

If using grout to hold up the toilet is a bad idea, any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[Helper Dave]

I know it's a bit of a debate (to seal or not to seal), and I'm in the 'no seal' camp when it comes to toilets, but if you're expecting grout to hold up the toilet, I'd make this suggestion:

I wouldn't rely on grout to hold it up on its own. As it breaks down from water on the floor, cleaning product on the floor and toilet, etc., its gonna weaken, and crack, especially on an unlevel floor where the toilet will want to move.

Take a look around plumbing supply shops, or hardware stores in your area and see if you can find rubber toilet shims. Level your toilet with them, set it, and trim them with a utility knife. You can cut them back slightly under the curve on the bottom of the toilet so there's room for grout to cover it, but then you've also got something sitting under there that won't let the toilet shift.

Just remember not to seal the back. In case the toilet leaks, you'll want to know about it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[HomeRepairGuy]

I know it's a bit of a debate (to seal or not to seal), and I'm in the 'no seal' camp when it comes to toilets, but if you're expecting grout to hold up the toilet, I'd make this suggestion:

I wouldn't rely on grout to hold it up on its own. As it breaks down from water on the floor, cleaning product on the floor and toilet, etc., its gonna weaken, and crack, especially on an unlevel floor where the toilet will want to move.

Take a look around plumbing supply shops, or hardware stores in your area and see if you can find rubber toilet shims. Level your toilet with them, set it, and trim them with a utility knife. You can cut them back slightly under the curve on the bottom of the toilet so there's room for grout to cover it, but then you've also got something sitting under there that won't let the toilet shift.

Just remember not to seal the back. In case the toilet leaks, you'll want to know about it.

Thanks. Your reply did make me aware of a flaw in my intended procedure. By putting silicone grease on the bottom of the toilet so it won't stick to the grout, that would allow the toilet to move around on the grout.

I think a better way will be to build a level platform that is the same shape as the base of the toilet but maybe about 1/8" or 1/4" larger. Then I can just set the toilet on that platform. I will caulk around the base of the toilet to prevent it from shifting but leave the back open to allow any leak to escape and alert me that it happened.

Now what should I use to build the level platform. If I make a mold out of clay (around the circumference and around the drain hole) and then pour concrete leveler in there, would that work? Or maybe use Bondo?