Leaving unused wye in main drain line

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DanFL

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I need to move the existing toilet rough-in to the new location shown in the picture. Is it allowed to leave the old wye in place and just cap it, or do I need to cut it out and use a coupling to the main line? If I can cap it, does it matter whether I cap on the horizontal wye inlet or vertical drop from the toilet?
 

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DanFL

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Just to be clear, I was planning to connect the toilet at the new location like this. That's why the wye is no longer needed.
1674507539831.png
 

Jeff H Young

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Id cut as much out as possible . but you can cap where ever yoiu want its just a bit sloppy
 

WorthFlorida

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A problem can be by leaving the wye in place, solids can settle in there. Since you need to cut the other end for the new location, it may just be easier to cut it all out. I'm guessing it's about 4' from the vent to the old wye. It looks like you can with a long 3" pipe placed parallel to the joist. Lower it under the joist and turn it 90*.

if you use Furnco couplings, it must have the SS band around it.
1674509322707.jpeg
 

oldVermonter

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For the record, your picture is of a no hub coupling, not a Fernco Proflex. Those couplings have a flat shield, not a corrugated shield.

Cheers, Wayne
Wayne, thank you. For us ignorant-but-trying-to-learn people, when do you choose one or the other?
 

wwhitney

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Wayne, thank you. For us ignorant-but-trying-to-learn people, when do you choose one or the other?
Use a no-hub coupling when joining two piece of no-hub cast iron. These have a corrugated shield.

Use a Fernco Proflex style coupling (ASTM C1460) when joining two pieces of pipe, of the specified type on each side of the coupling, above ground. These have a flat shield.

Use a regular Fernco style coupling (ASTM C1173) when joining two pieces of pipe, of the specified type on each side of the coupling, underground. These are available unshielded, or with a shield; I'm not sure when to choose one over the other.

Cheers, Wayne
 

oldVermonter

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Use a no-hub coupling when joining two piece of no-hub cast iron. These have a corrugated shield.

Use a Fernco Proflex style coupling (ASTM C1460) when joining two pieces of pipe, of the specified type on each side of the coupling, above ground. These have a flat shield.

Use a regular Fernco style coupling (ASTM C1173) when joining two pieces of pipe, of the specified type on each side of the coupling, underground. These are available unshielded, or with a shield; I'm not sure when to choose one over the other.

Cheers, Wayne
Very helpful, thank you!
 

DanFL

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Thanks for the responses. I'm leaning towards just cutting the whole piece out and installing a new section (about 6'), including the 90 long sweep that wasn't shown in the original picture (included below). When I set a level on that section from the sweep to the vent, it's pretty close to level, with maybe a 1/16" per foot slope. If I start new at the elbow, then I can get the proper slope. I was just trying to take the path of least resistance.
1674571554771.png
 

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DanFL

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When installing PVC glued fittings, how critical is it to rotate the fitting a 1/4 turn while pushing it on, as the glue instructions indicate? Sometimes this isn't possible. In my mind, it would be easier to cut that full length new piece, glue on the new long sweep at A, support it at the vent end with the proper slope, then glue and push on to the new section at B. I can't really twist that fitting while pushing it on in that case since the joists would prevent that. If I install the long sweep fitting first, it seems I could easily screw that up and not have the proper slope when I install the new section next. In what order would you pros do this?
 

wwhitney

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What I would do is make glue joint B first so I can rotate the fitting as usual. Before gluing B I'd dry fit a short piece of pipe into the A-side of the fitting, something that sticks out long enough for my torpedo level to sit on. That way I can check the slope and adjust it as I make up the B joint.

Cheers, Wayne
 

DanFL

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Thanks Wayne. I've done that before, but found that my slope was off afterwards, I guess because I didn't have the dry fitted piece fully inserted so it was in at a slight angle. When I added the glue, it lubed it enough to bottom out and then the slope was off slightly. I'll give that another try here.
 

Jeff H Young

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If its impossible to rotate fitting when gluing .... it dosent happen just primer and observe every spec is covered with glue on fitting and pipe. it should be ok
 

WorthFlorida

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Thanks for correcting my error on the Furnco. I just copied the first picture I found. I have a strap wrench and I may use it every couple of years but nothing can replace it. This will help getting a turn on the pipe. Since the cement sets up quite fast, you may want to have another person on the strap wrench. Sometimes getting a grip takes a few seconds longer than you might have.

Screen Shot 2023-01-24 at 7.25.27 PM.jpg
 
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DanFL

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I probably should have asked before, but what would be the best and proper way to connect the toilet in the new location shown above? Is my original plan shown above OK, or better to use a wye just down stream of that 90 elbow where the 2" drops in? Roll the wye slightly to get the correct horizontal location off of the left and back walls?
 

Reach4

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I probably should have asked before, but what would be the best and proper way to connect the toilet in the new location shown above? Is my original plan shown above OK, or better to use a wye just down stream of that 90 elbow where the 2" drops in? Roll the wye slightly to get the correct horizontal location off of the left and back walls?
Like you have in your first photo is good, but bring the 3 inch wye up toward the top of the picture. Then the 2-inch wet vent pipe comes in from the straight path.

But there are alternatives. You could pipe the toilet via the straight shot thru a new 3-inch pipe, and bring in the wet vent thru the side port.

For the fitting where the toilet goes, some would like a 4x3 closet bend. The output is 3 inch, and the input is 4 inch, and takes a 4-inch closet flange. If you glue the closet flange, it is best to have one with a stainless steel ring. There are also good no-glue compression flanges. Those would be nice if you ever wanted to redo the flooring.
 

DanFL

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But there are alternatives. You could pipe the toilet via the straight shot thru a new 3-inch pipe, and bring in the wet vent thru the side port.
Wouldn't that violate the rule about the horizontal portion of the vent being below the highest flood rim?
 

Reach4

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Hey, wait a minute.

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