Kitchen drain pipe clogs under singlewide.

[BullheadPond]

Have a kitchen sink drain that constantly clogs. If i snake it out it will clog again somtimes within 24 hrs or so. And somtimes in a week or two. I believe there must be a sag in the drain pipe under the house that runs 35ft to thd bathroom then goes into the 4 inch pipe that goes to the septic. I really dont want to have to pull down most of the underbelly to try and find the sag.. Can i cut off the drain pipe under the sink ,plug it and run the kitchen drain right into the 4 inch pipe running to the septic tank? Not sure if plugging th drain line could cause any suction or draing problems for the bathroom? I tried to unclude a drawing but it says the files too big to attach.

 

[Reach4]

A camera would be informative. Is it a belly, or is it a glob that your little snake just pokes a little hole in, and the hole gets re-plugged. Clogs often happen when the path switches from vertical to horizontal. That transition should be a long sweep, but in older plumbing it is often a medium bend.

Is there a vent pipe right above that kitchen sink? If so, you could get somebody to use a bigger cutter inserted from the roof.

Another possibility is to cut out that bend under the house, replace it with a combo or wye+45, and use the new port as a cleanout.

Can i cut off the drain pipe under the sink ,plug it and run the kitchen drain right into the 4 inch pipe running to the septic tank?

I don't picture that. The sink needs to be vented. The venting is typically in the wall. If you would make a new hole in the bottom of the sink cabinet, you could use an AAV in many places. Not sure about WI.

I tried to unclude a drawing but it says the files too big to attach.

Try saving the drawing scan as a PNG or a JPG, and see if that gets the size under 200K. If the image is more than 800 pixels in a dimension, shrink the picture. If using Windows, Paint can do those things.

 

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[BullheadPond]

The sink drain is vented.

 

[BullheadPond]

Pic?

 

[BullheadPond]

Thinking i could cut the drain pipe under the kitchen . Cap off the long run. Then run the kitchen drain right into to 4 inch pipe that would be about 3-5ft away directly under the kitchen.?

 

[Reach4]

So are you are looking to cut the 1-1/2 inch vertical pipe from above before the bend.

Only use 2 inch long sweep bends, 45s, wyes, and combos for fittings. You would also use couplings. Fernco 3000-215 (P3000-215) would connect 1.5 inch galvanized to 2 inch plastic. See https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings/proflex-couplings for others.

Before cutting the cast iron, make sure that both sides are well-supported.

If you make the new path, increase what you change to, before joining the 4-inch, using 2-inch PVC.

 

[BullheadPond]

Pic?

 

[BullheadPond]

Can i do this?

 

[BullheadPond]

So are you are looking to cut the 1-1/2 inch vertical pipe from above before the bend.

Only use 2 inch long bends, 45s, wyes, and combos for fittings. You would also use couplings.

Before cutting the cast iron, make sure that both sides are well-supported.

If you make the new path, increase what you change before joining the 4-inch with 2-inch PVC.

I could cut it vertically under the kitchen or after the elbow and cut it horizontally. All the pipe is black abs except for the 4 inch to the septic. Its white pvc. I was going to cut the abs under the singlwide and replumb it into the 4 inch all right under the kitchen.
Capping off the 35 ft run under the kitchen shouldnt affect the how the bathroom drains should it?

 

[Reach4]

I am glad you have plastic pipe instead of galvanized. Make sure the 4-inch is well-supported before cutting.

I could cut it vertically under the kitchen or after the elbow and cut it horizontally.

I advise not to keep the 1.5 inch elbow. I suspect the clog point is the elbow.

All the pipe is black abs except for the 4 inch to the septic.

OK, good. So you can use appropriate glued fittings. At some time you transition between PVC and ABS. That could use a shielded coupling.

 

[BullheadPond]

Capping off the 35ft 1 1/2pipe should not affect the bathroom drains ?

 

[Reach4]

Capping off the 35ft 1 1/2pipe should not affect the bathroom drains ?

Pretty sure no. Others may suggest that you remove 34 feet of that 1.5 inch ABS, but I don't think that would be required.

Your drawing is a little ambiguous, but your proposed project may make your plumbing more proper. If wet venting the toilet with the lavatory, no kitchen waste should join bathroom waste until downstream of the toilet.

 

[BullheadPond]

Ok thank you for your help. I would suume i can use a rubber tee to splice into the 4 inch septic pipe. Thinking it would be the easiest to splice in that way. The less i have to move the pvc the less chances of anything comkng loose somewhere else.

 

[Reach4]

Rubber tee would not be allowed. To splice that in, you would probably use two 4-inch shielded couplings.

The wye could be ABS so that you would not have to use ABS-PVC glued transitions.

NIBCO® 4"x4"x2" Hub 45-Degree ABS DWV Wye

The NIBCO ABS DWV 45-degree wye is used in residential and commercial drain, waste and vent systems. The ABS DWV 45-degree wye features a hub x hub x hub connection and allows for a connection to be made in continuous pipe line and branch out to a different direction. Please refer to NIBCO...

www.menards.com

NIBCO 4 in. x 4 in. x 2 in. ABS DWV 45-Degree All Hub Reducing Wye C5810HD442 - The Home Depot

Get the NIBCO 4 in. x 4 in. x 2 in. ABS DWV 45-Degree H x H x H Wye C5810, solvent welds joins a branch line to a horizontal drain line at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

You would need ABS stubs on each end to mate with the shielded couplings.

 

[BullheadPond]

Ok thank you again.

 

[BullheadPond]

Any chance you could attach a pic of the t you suggest for the 1 1/2 or 2 inch to the 4 inch and the shielded couplings?
Ty.

 

[BullheadPond]

Any chance you could attach a pic of the t you suggest for the 1 1/2 or 2 inch to the 4 inch and the shielded couplings?
Ty.

I probably should have mentioned that the inch is just in a crawl space where i would splice in. Not burried at that spot.

 

[Reach4]

Any chance you could attach a pic of the t you suggest for the 1 1/2 or 2 inch to the 4 inch and the shielded couplings?
Ty.

I edited in the links above that show the proposed 4x4x2 wye. The Menards picture does not actually show a 4x4x2, but the description makes it clear. The HD link has the right picture.

Fernco 4" Plastic/Steel/Extra Heavy Cast Iron Proflex Flexible Coupling

Shielded transition coupling for above ground drain, west, vent and sewer connections

www.menards.com

 

[BullheadPond]

I would imagine i just cut off two short pieces of 4 inch pipe and glue them in the wye to make the ends male?

 

[Reach4]

I would imagine i just cut off two short pieces of 4 inch pipe and glue them in the wye to make the ends male?

Yes.

I expect PVC is easier to find in WI. You could do PVC for the wye, but then you would need to add a 2 inch stub for the side port of the wye if using a 2 inch shielded coupling. There is green transition cement that can glue PVC to ABS. I don't know what WI thinks of that. I think IL would be OK with that.

With a PVC wye, another possibility exists: glue one end of the wye to the existing PVC pipe. But you would then need to have a piece of PVC pipe to bridge a gap anyway.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-P603-420-4-x-4-x-2-PVC-DWV-Street-Wye offers a variation that may not be worthwhile.