Katalox + Clack + Ozone = success!

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Skyjumper

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I have FINALLY found a winning combination for my Fe filter. 3 months ago I finally broke down and put a Clack Ozone valve on my KL tank and haven't had a trace of Iron (or H2S) coming out the filter since. I've been drinking the water straight out of the filter, before the softener, and it is delicious. frankly I probably don't need the softener anymore.

This filter started out as a Fleck 5000 AIO with catalytic carbon. That combination never worked and turned into a huge mess. a little over a year ago I put katalox in the tank and it worked for about 5 days. I had been cleaning the KL every 6 weeks with bleach, iron out, and rescare with mediocre results at best (0.8ppm leakage).

in a move of desperation I dropped $400 on the Clack Ozone valve from a local dealer, and it has been the best 400 bucks I have ever spent... so far. Zero, zilch, absolutely no iron at all coming out the filter on a 2 day backwash cycle. Still the same KL that was in it before, but now it actually works.

iron filter nirvana it is. now I just need to learn how to maintain the corona discharge unit.
 

Charlie Bosco

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I have FINALLY found a winning combination for my Fe filter. 3 months ago I finally broke down and put a Clack Ozone valve on my KL tank and haven't had a trace of Iron (or H2S) coming out the filter since. I've been drinking the water straight out of the filter, before the softener, and it is delicious. frankly I probably don't need the softener anymore.

This filter started out as a Fleck 5000 AIO with catalytic carbon. That combination never worked and turned into a huge mess. a little over a year ago I put katalox in the tank and it worked for about 5 days. I had been cleaning the KL every 6 weeks with bleach, iron out, and rescare with mediocre results at best (0.8ppm leakage).

in a move of desperation I dropped $400 on the Clack Ozone valve from a local dealer, and it has been the best 400 bucks I have ever spent... so far. Zero, zilch, absolutely no iron at all coming out the filter on a 2 day backwash cycle. Still the same KL that was in it before, but now it actually works.

iron filter nirvana it is. now I just need to learn how to maintain the corona discharge unit.
I cant believe this thread died here.. I really want to change my Katalox AIO to Ozone.. I am only treating H2S and no Iron. ITs does OK as long as Its followed with my Catalytic carbon tank to scrub the remaining smell. However I do have to periodically do a chlorine backwash as I can still smell H2S from the test port immediately after the Katalox.
I am reluctant to change to the Clack head since I have to change all the plumbing behind it cause it wont match up to the existing 2510 AIO.

I wish I could just add the Ozone to the existing valve.
 

Relevante

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I cant believe this thread died here.. I really want to change my Katalox AIO to Ozone.. I am only treating H2S and no Iron. ITs does OK as long as Its followed with my Catalytic carbon tank to scrub the remaining smell. However I do have to periodically do a chlorine backwash as I can still smell H2S from the test port immediately after the Katalox.
I am reluctant to change to the Clack head since I have to change all the plumbing behind it cause it wont match up to the existing 2510 AIO.

I wish I could just add the Ozone to the existing valve.
Agreed. Wondering exactly what valve and generator OP used?
 

Charlie Bosco

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I have FINALLY found a winning combination for my Fe filter. 3 months ago I finally broke down and put a Clack Ozone valve on my KL tank and haven't had a trace of Iron (or H2S) coming out the filter since. I've been drinking the water straight out of the filter, before the softener, and it is delicious. frankly I probably don't need the softener anymore.

This filter started out as a Fleck 5000 AIO with catalytic carbon. That combination never worked and turned into a huge mess. a little over a year ago I put katalox in the tank and it worked for about 5 days. I had been cleaning the KL every 6 weeks with bleach, iron out, and rescare with mediocre results at best (0.8ppm leakage).

in a move of desperation I dropped $400 on the Clack Ozone valve from a local dealer, and it has been the best 400 bucks I have ever spent... so far. Zero, zilch, absolutely no iron at all coming out the filter on a 2 day backwash cycle. Still the same KL that was in it before, but now it actually works.

iron filter nirvana it is. now I just need to learn how to maintain the corona discharge unit.
I have H2S issue and my Katalox AIO gets chlorine periodically as well. I want to do the Ozone but was a bit lazy since I have Fleck Valves on my tanks.. I wanted plug and play swap. If I install the Clack I need to re-plumb the lines.. I know.. Lazy..

How is this setup holding up? I may just cave and do the Clack if Fleck still has not caught up with the times yet..
 

Crunchtime2k

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I have FINALLY found a winning combination for my Fe filter. 3 months ago I finally broke down and put a Clack Ozone valve on my KL tank and haven't had a trace of Iron (or H2S) coming out the filter since. I've been drinking the water straight out of the filter, before the softener, and it is delicious. frankly I probably don't need the softener anymore.

This filter started out as a Fleck 5000 AIO with catalytic carbon. That combination never worked and turned into a huge mess. a little over a year ago I put katalox in the tank and it worked for about 5 days. I had been cleaning the KL every 6 weeks with bleach, iron out, and rescare with mediocre results at best (0.8ppm leakage).

in a move of desperation I dropped $400 on the Clack Ozone valve from a local dealer, and it has been the best 400 bucks I have ever spent... so far. Zero, zilch, absolutely no iron at all coming out the filter on a 2 day backwash cycle. Still the same KL that was in it before, but now it actually works.

iron filter nirvana it is. now I just need to learn how to maintain the corona discharge unit.
 

Crunchtime2k

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Where did you get this valve for $400? Im getting prices for nearly double. Did you get a complete aio ozone valve or just the ozone add on for the clack?
 

Skyjumper

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ok.. it's been a while, and I've been busy the past few years.... an update on this filter -- it's been in service now for about 4 years (4.5 years for the Katalox media, and about 3.5 yrs for the Clack Ozone valve). I'm a bit embarrassed to admit I have done NOTHING to maintain this system since 2021... Not even a basic cleaning of the valve. Yes, I know you can't do that and expect it to keep working... but in this case it has, at least until recently where I've noticed a bit of iron in the post-filter water. It's nothing like it used to be, but enough that I can taste it. So it appears after nearly 4 years of neglect I now need to perform some maintenance. Not sure yet if I need to just clean the valve and backflush the Katalox with bleach... or if I need to replace the KL media and (maybe) replace to Ozone generator?? I'll figure it out... but even if I have to completely replace the whole dang system I'll feel like it was a very good value... our water has been *awesome* for the past 4 years. No regrets at all.
 

Brody Reb

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Did you have any success with cleaning your Clack valve or did you have to do more to bring things back in line?
 

JustaDIYer

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I'd be interested in seeing what valve exactly you switched to and how you converted it.

I have a KL Iron Filter as well and get some iron still, even after softener. I did a deep clean on my softener (which helped some) and about to replace the KL resin in my filter.
 

Reach4

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Just a comment on changing media. Let the media soak before full flow backwashing. When you pressurize after changing media, let the pressure rise slowly to prevent extra high flow rate. There will be some air release air from pipes slowly. I don't have a worked out suggested procedure.

I think we could work on a suggested procedure, or find ones we like. Some suggested objectives:
Recognize the media may be dried some, and has air content that will make the media lighter than usual. So soak.
There will be considerable fines, and you want to rinse those out, but not as fast as a full-blast backwash.

I think going slow on pressurizing, and restricted flow during the first backwash are good. Then when you do backwash, do it extra long to wash the fines better than is needed during a routine periodic backwash.


https://www.purewaterproducts.com/docs/startup-and-rinse-instructions-for-backwashing-media-filters
https://www.springwellwater.com/how-to-soak-your-media-before-installation/ (says soak carbon 48 hours)
https://www.cleanwaterstore.com/technical/water-treatment-manuals/Upflow-Carbon-Guide.pdf (says soak carbon at least 2 hours)
https://www.home-water-purifiers-and-filters.com/manuals/manual-iron-rival-katalox.pdf (says to soak KL, but does not say how long)
 

JustaDIYer

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Agree Justa. In the process of changing media myself. How long did your katalox last you?

It's going on 9 years now. Not sure if it's bad or not honestly. Just decided to refresh it, probably doing it this weekend, just got all the other parts in yesterday (gravel and lower distributor basket) so will replace the KL and gravel, probably replumb some fittings since I'm sure they're iron clogged.

I have a micronizer I bought with the Fe filter but never installed it. Thinking about doing it now though, just not sure how much it'll help and what the downsides are.
 

JustaDIYer

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That link says 12 hour soak, while in bypass, manual regen to RR and slowly open bypass and let RR cycle run.

After that, run a full regen.

1742399860547.png
 

Bannerman

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Prior to filling the tank to soak the media, manually advance the control valve to the Backwash position, then remove the unit's electrical plug from the wall outlet and open the bypass or fill valve only slightly, to cause the media tank to slowly fill with water.

The water entering the tank will push air out from the media, so by advancing the controller to the Backwash position, will permit air to be discharged out through the drain line instead of becoming trapped at the top of the tank. Removing electrical power from the controller will prevent the control valve from advancing, so it will continue to remain in the Backwash position until power is restored.

Once water begins to flow out continuously through the drain line, close the bypass/main valve to prevent further water entry. Keeping the controller in the Bypass position for the full soak cycle, will permit a small amount of water to drain as a result of the water in the tank expanding as it becomes warmer during the soak cycle.

Unless an Empress media tank equipped with a bottom Vortech distribution plate is utilized, a standard media tank will require bedding gravel. The amount of bedding gravel needed will be 10 lbs for a 9" diameter tank, 15 lbs for a 10", or 20 lbs for a 12".
 

JustaDIYer

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Prior to filling the tank to soak the media, manually advance the control valve to the Backwash position, then remove the unit's electrical plug from the wall outlet and open the bypass or fill valve only slightly, to cause the media tank to slowly fill with water.

The water entering the tank will push air out from the media, so by advancing the controller to the Backwash position, will permit air to be discharged out through the drain line instead of becoming trapped at the top of the tank. Removing electrical power from the controller will prevent the control valve from advancing, so it will continue to remain in the Backwash position until power is restored.

Once water begins to flow out continuously through the drain line, close the bypass/main valve to prevent further water entry. Keeping the controller in the Bypass position for the full soak cycle, will permit a small amount of water to drain as a result of the water in the tank expanding as it becomes warmer during the soak cycle.

Unless an Empress media tank equipped with a bottom Vortech distribution plate is utilized, a standard media tank will require bedding gravel. The amount of bedding gravel needed will be 10 lbs for a 9" diameter tank, 15 lbs for a 10", or 20 lbs for a 12".

Thanks.... I was just going to fill the tank with a hose (raw well water) after replacing the gravel and KL and let it soak. After the 12 hours, I was going to reassemble the controller on top of tank and finish install. Run rapid rinse and then a full regen.
 

Rotaris

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Hey folks, I am going to soak the Katalox for 12 hrs with a few OZs of bleach to sanitize. This is 1.5 cubic foot tank 10x54. Put in a DLFC of 6.5 (Think that is the smallest I have) Backwash for 1/2 hr. Rinse for 1/2 hr. Then put in my 9 or 10 DLFC that I have been using, see how it goes. Set at my normal backwash every night for 15 min and see how that turns out. Or leave the 6.5 for a few days of Backwashing??
What are your thoughts?
 

JustaDIYer

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You are planning to re-use the gravel? Separation for reuse seems like a lot of work-- not that I even tried.
no, I said 'replacing' the gravel and KL, not reusing it.



Hey folks, I am going to soak the Katalox for 12 hrs with a few OZs of bleach to sanitize. This is 1.5 cubic foot tank 10x54. Put in a DLFC of 6.5 (Think that is the smallest I have) Backwash for 1/2 hr. Rinse for 1/2 hr. Then put in my 9 or 10 DLFC that I have been using, see how it goes. Set at my normal backwash every night for 15 min and see how that turns out. Or leave the 6.5 for a few days of Backwashing??
What are your thoughts?

mine only has a 6gpm, maybe I should get a larger one.

I like your idea of soaking it with some chlorine.
 
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