Is this a water pressure regulator?

[illicitus88]

I'm trying to increase the water pressure of my house so I bought a water pressure gauge. I'm trying to figure out where my water pressure regulator is so I can increase the pressure and based on the online information I read, it should be close to the house water shut off. The lever at the bottom is the house shut off and I'm assuming the green object is the pressure regulator, but no matter which way I turn it, it won't change the water pressure.

I found this manual which seems to be a part of the green object, but am not completely sure.
https://products.ecc.emea.honeywell.com/french/pdf/d06fi-pd-en0h1035ge23r1010.pdf

Can anyone confirm that this is the pressure regulator and let me know how to increase the water pressure? Thanks in advance.

 

[Valveman]

Yes that is a pressure regulator. Turning the green knob to the right should increase pressure. I can't see the flow direction arrow. But I am thinking you have the gauge on the inlet side instead of the outlet side. It only effects the outlet pressure, not the inlet pressure.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[illicitus88]

Thank you for the quick response.

Turning the green dial didn't change the psi.

If this is indeed the wrong place to measure the psi of the house, where should I check the water pressure? I have no other spigot around my house. Also, if my inlet pressure is 60 psi, that would mean I won't be able to exceed 60 psi into the house, correct?

I have a fire sprinkler system with a pressure gauge directly above this. Can I use this gauge for the water pressure of my house?

 

[Jadnashua]

That does not look like any pressure reduction valve I'm familiar with - doesn't mean it isn't. Is there a brand name and model number on it? I can't read what's inside the window in the green part.

Some sprinkler systems are constantly under pressure, some only see water when there is an alarm and the valve opens. Normally, you'd want the full street pressure to get to the sprinkler system unless it is designed for some lower pressure. There might be some pressure in the pipes, but it could just be air pressure rather than water if it is a dry system. If that line just feeds the sprinklers, it may not be adjustable.

FWIW, 60psi is well within the acceptable water pressure range. If it were to exceed 80psi, you would be required to limit it to a maximum of 80psi inside of the house, but lots of people live with 60psi and lower, quite happily.

You might put that pressure gauge on say a washing machine feed, or (be careful, it will get hot) on the water heater drain. You can buy adapters for the aerators on many faucets to then screw that gauge on there as well. Or, say on the shower spray arm.

 

[Dj2]

This is a PRV with double union. May be CASH ACME brand, which I've installed a few of.

If changing the pressure on the dial (say from 60 to 45) did nothing to the actual pressure at the tap...your regulator is failing.

If your street pressure is constant 60, you actually don't need a PRV. But if you have fluctuating street pressure, it's a good idea to have one. Street pressure is beyond your control. I have a few homes on hilly streets, where the street pressure is intentionally higher, and all brass PRVs, like Zurn or Watts, fail withing 5 years. I would not install a PRV with a plastic body there.

The best way to check your indoor pressure is at the washing machine or a hose bibb.

Question: is your fire sprinkler system on PVC pipes? Where do you live?

 

[Valveman]

I just can't tell if the street water is coming in the upper or lower pipe? If it is coming in the upper pipe the gauge is reading street pressure. And if 60 PSI is all that is coming in, you don't need to reduce it. And it is a pressure reducing valve so it only reduces pressure. You would need a booster pump and system if you wanted to increase the pressure.

Turing the adjustment to the right will increase the pressure as much as that valve can. And turning the adjustment far enough to the right will just disable the pressure reducer and make it work like a piece of pipe.

If the fire system is teed in after the PRV, then that gauge should be reading the reduced pressure from the PRV. But if it is teed in before the PRV, that gauge is reading street pressure.

 

[Reach4]

If this is indeed the wrong place to measure the psi of the house, where should I check the water pressure?

You can use a laundry connection or the drain on the WH.

When adjusting the PRV, dribble water from a faucet.

 

[Dj2]

Valveman, there is a stop ball valve at the bottom, indicating that the flow is up.

 

[Valveman]

Valveman, there is a stop ball valve at the bottom, indicating that the flow is up.

You would think so. But I am never sure. If that is the case and the PRV is working, turning the adjustment to the left should lower the pressure WHILE water is being used.

 

[illicitus88]

Just a little bit more information on this house:
This is a brand new three story house in Orange County, California. The water pressure seems to be low throughout the entire house. The 1st floor has no sinks or faucets. The 2nd floor has a half bath and the kitchen. The 3rd floor has the laundry room and two baths. I mainly want to increase the pressure of the two baths on the 3rd floor and the kitchen sink on the 2nd floor.

The sprinkler system seems to be PVC. The gauge on the sprinkler system is reading about 65 psi, while the spigot just above the main water turn off valve is constantly reading 60 psi.

I forget exactly what the text on the green knob say, I'll check when I get home. The text on the black portion of this unit says DVGW DW 6330 KIWA P IX 1582/I Made in Germany. The green knob has text ranging from about 45-90. If I turn to the know to the right, the numbers go up. Even after changing the knob to 75, the spigot reads 60 psi, and the water pressure of the house doesn't seem to change. There seems to be no change to the sprinkler gauge as well.

 

[Reach4]

See https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US/Pages/Category.aspx?cat=HonECC%20Catalog&category=DS06&start1=0&rows=50

There appears to be a ports on the side that accepts a pressure gauge.
https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/Techlit/TechLitDocuments/33-00000s/33-00014EF.pdf

The pressure gauge ports are 1/4" NPT according to http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/s...ad-pressure-regulating-valve-single-union-npt so that would accept the very common pressure gauge that is used with home wells.

 

[Dj2]

If your home is still under builder's warranty, call the builder.

Also, ask your neighbors about their water pressure. It's entirely possible that your gauge is faulty. Gauges are inexpensive, so get a new one.

In LA county, all fire sprinkler pipings must be copper, for obvious reason.

 

[hj]

quote; some only see water when there is an alarm and the valve opens. Normally, you'd want the full street pressure to get to the sprinkler system unless it is designed for some lower pressure. There might be some pressure in the pipes, but it could just be air pressure rather than water if it is a dry system

Residential systems are ALWAYS full of water and under pressure. Dry systems are typically for "freezer" type installation which are too cold for a pressurized water system and they ALSO require a lot of mechanical things, such as an air compressor.