Is there a side (not offset) shower drain than can be used with shower bases ?

[Mini Me]

Below is a diagram showing my situation. I am replacing a bath tub drain that you can see in the second picture
The problem is that even a 2" offset shower drain will not fit there. My plumbing is 1.5" copper and the plan is to connect with a flexible shielded connector from 1 1/2" ABS to copper. But before getting there I need to install the shower drain which does not fit in the notch that the original plumbing was using
As you can see in the diagram, the shower base requires the drain to be 9" away from the the framing bottom plate which positions the shower drain just above that joist which is already notched but not enough to actually fit even an offset drain (that needs a 2" to 1.5" adapter and that requires more room below the drain.

I am just wondering if anybody tried something like this.

2" Low Profile Shower Base Drain Perforated Strainer- PVC Side Outlet with 2" X 1-1/2" Reducer Pipe Fitting and,Compatible with Metal Or Plastic Pipe for Replacement Shower Base and Outlet Drain : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

2" Low Profile Shower Base Drain Perforated Strainer- PVC Side Outlet with 2" X 1-1/2" Reducer Pipe Fitting and,Compatible with Metal Or Plastic Pipe for Replacement Shower Base and Outlet Drain : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.ca

I guess that if this is a viable solution I will have to change everything to PVC (DWV)

more pictures here

What is the best way to turn this old bath tub drain into a shower drain?

Here is the manual for the shower base I am installing in the past I have used the 4 1/8" Oatley brass/steel shower drain but considering that the drain that is there sits in a notch in the joist below it I do not think this is an option (see the second picture) What options do I have here ...

terrylove.com

 

[Mini Me]

Here is what I ended up building, any problems with this (other than the 2" to 1.5" conversion which I know it is not up to code but it is not practical to do it otherwise here)

 

[Sponsor]

 

[wwhitney]

That style of reducer should not be used on the horizontal like that--your configuration will hold ~1/4" of standing water upstream of reducer. On the horizontal you need an eccentric reducer, such as the following (in PVC)

Amazon.com: Lesso America 429 Series PVC Pipe Fitting - Eccentric Reducer Coupling - Schedule 40 (White) - 2×1-1/2" (SOC x SOC) / High-Flow Capacity/Plumbing (429-251E) (1 Pack) : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Lesso America 429 Series PVC Pipe Fitting - Eccentric Reducer Coupling - Schedule 40 (White) - 2×1-1/2" (SOC x SOC) / High-Flow Capacity/Plumbing (429-251E) (1 Pack) : Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Or you could use your reducer on the vertical if you can make that fit.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Mini Me]

If I use only the components of the original p-trap as bought from the store it will look like this but on the downsteam end of the ptrap I will not be high enough to get the the level to the existing plumbing (copper drain in the picture)

I could do this if these if they are allowed:
-use a 90 with hub connectors (H in the picture) at both ends
-use that raiser piece to get back to the elevation of the 1.5" copper pipe (drain)
-minimize the connecting piece marked with an X in the picture (otherwise the shower drain gets too high above the floor
(I still need to install 1/2" subfloor, 1/2" cement board to support tiles -see the third picture for how high above the floor the shower drain gets pushed if I use the reducer on the vertical side. Not sure if there is a male only elbow 2"

 

[wwhitney]

In the first mockup of your last post, how about using a reducer bushing with a beveled inside edge, instead of a reducer coupling? One like this:

2 X 1 1/2 ABS BUSHING

2 X 1 1/2 ABS BUSHING ABS SPEC SHEET

acandb.com

That beveled edge would end up as a "funnel" to channel the water from 2" down to 1-1/2".

Raising the trap outlet elbow relative to the u-bend would be controversial.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Mini Me]

I guess that would work only if the bushing is designed for glue welding on both sides. Is it ?
And are you suggesting installing that in horizontal position, replacing the reducer in the first case or in the second case?
I think you are suggesting that for the second case
Why is raising the trap controversial>? Not saying it is not but I want to understand what would go wrong if one does that

Found this online

OK after some wrestling with chatgpt I extracted this answer

Here’s the risk if that distance is greater than ~4":

• As water flows out of the trap and into a longer or lower trap arm, the water column creates siphon suction.
• That suction can pull water out of the trap faster than it refills, leaving the U partly empty.
• Once the water level falls below ~2", the trap seal is lost and sewer gas can enter.

 

[Mini Me]

Ok here is the version (unfolded) using the bushing in the horizontal position
this will leave like 1/16-1/8" of water at the bottom of the side drain but it fits perfectly in the space I have
Of course when installed the P-trap will pivot before being glued to align the flex coupling with the copper pipe
this also allows some tolerance/flexibility, it will let the drain float up and down to adjust like 1/16" when I tighten the drain to the shower base in case do not cut that raiser at the inlet of the p-trap exactly to size
Not sure what the procedure is to cut that exactly to the size that will position the drain right under the shower base in close contact with it.

 

[wwhitney]

I guess that would work only if the bushing is designed for glue welding on both sides. Is it ?
And are you suggesting installing that in horizontal position, replacing the reducer in the first case or in the second case?

A bushing gets solvent welded on the outside to the interior of a hub, and solvent welded on the inside to a pipe. The bushing would be vertical, in the outlet of the 2" elbow on the inlet of trap.

BTW, the elbow you have on the outlet of the shower is a vent elbow and not suitable for drainage.

You'd really have a much better solution if you change the layout or framing so you can at least use a 45 degree outlet shower drain.

For the horizontal reducer solution, you really need to get an eccentric coupling or bushing.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[wwhitney]

Would one of these work? I'm not clear on whether the part that mates with the shower pan is always a standard size, or it can vary.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/OSB-SD370-MBL-1-1-2-Brass-Round-Side-Outlet-Shower-Drain-for-Molded-Bases-Matte-Black

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/plumbing-installation-repair/shower-floor-drains/mustee-reg-drain-assemly-side-outlet-1-1-2/82-400a/p-1460081127392-c-9430.htm

(All I did was google '1-1/2" side outlet shower drain')

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Mini Me]

Would one of these work? I'm not clear on whether the part that mates with the shower pan is always a standard size, or it can vary.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/OSB-SD370-MBL-1-1-2-Brass-Round-Side-Outlet-Shower-Drain-for-Molded-Bases-Matte-Black

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/plumbing-installation-repair/shower-floor-drains/mustee-reg-drain-assemly-side-outlet-1-1-2/82-400a/p-1460081127392-c-9430.htm

(All I did was google '1-1/2" side outlet shower drain')

Cheers, Wayne

I have the Canadian equivalent of the above

SD353 - +osb

Shower drain shall be 2 piece 2" ABS side discharge outlet round with 2" ABS DWV Hub Connection. 4-1/4" screw-in stainless steel grate. Shower drain for use with molded shower bases. No muss, no fuss, no broken up concrete.

www.osb.ca

this matches my shower base

https://www.fiora.us/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/MULTI_SILEX_USA_INSTRUCTIONS_A3_03.pdf

Not sure why I would change it, what would be the problem if I use the reducer in the horizontal position ?
How bad can it be if the water sits there ? I could pour some resin or caulking to level the bottom up with the 1 1/2" pipe

 

[Mini Me]

BTW, the elbow you have on the outlet of the shower is a vent elbow and not suitable for drainage.

not sure what happened, I think I got like that from the store

 

[wwhitney]

I have the Canadian equivalent of the above

SD353 - +osb

Shower drain shall be 2 piece 2" ABS side discharge outlet round with 2" ABS DWV Hub Connection. 4-1/4" screw-in stainless steel grate. Shower drain for use with molded shower bases. No muss, no fuss, no broken up concrete.

www.osb.ca

No, the equivalent would be this one:

SD370 - +osb

Low Profile 1-1/2" Brass Side Discharge Shower Drain for preformed shower bases. No muss, no fuss, no broken up concrete.

www.osb.ca

Which has a 1-1/2" outlet, so you don't need a reducer. Then to minimize drop to your trap, use a 1-1/2" street quarter bend directly into your 1-1/2" trap.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Mini Me]

Already spent 70cad for the one I have, restoking fee is 25%
Still don't see the big inconvenient if I use the bushing in horizontal position. I agree that some water will always be there but since we all clean the shower after using it it will be mostly clean no smell if left there till next day. I will have to take extra care to make sure that joint does not ever leak or cracks but other than that I do not really see major problems

 

[Mini Me]

" use a 1-1/2" street quarter bend directly into your 1-1/2" trap."

I need that part to be adjustable so I can properly position the shower drain on the vertical axis as close as possible to the shower base