Is it possible for me to replace my water main myself?

[Sdsad123]

My gosh, things keep piling on. I thought I was going to do a quick replacement of my refrigerators shutoff valve. Went downstairs to turn off the main and it doesn't even budge. This is a picture of the main.

It appears as if I turns downwards into the wall. I could solder it, but I don't know how to purge the line of water. I could even do a sharkbite (I've read that they are up to code for mains which I didn't know) but...how should I do this? I don't really know how to deal with the turn. I should (and probably will) call a plumber but I really didn't want to spend so much money. Thanks for any advice.

 

[Jadnashua]

A picture of what you're working with would help...

A compression valve might work, but without seeing what you have, no idea.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sdsad123]

A picture of what you're working with would help...

A compression valve might work, but without seeing what you have, no idea.

Hi, there is a video and picture linked above. Did they not work?

 

[Terry]

A gate valve that is soldered onto copper pipe. That looks a bit hard considering the location there. Do you have a water meter where the water can be shut off?

 

[Sdsad123]

A gate valve that is soldered onto copper pipe. That looks a bit hard considering the location there. Do you have a water meter where the water can be shut off?

I do have a water company shutoff in the front yard and I guess I can buy a key and turn it off. I wonder if I can call a place and get a quote, if its not too expensive it might not be worth my time honestly.

 

[Jadnashua]

There may have been a delay after you posted before the picture showed up...wasn't there when I looked!

You may need the utility to shut your water off at the main, and those don't always work perfectly, so a little bit may drip through making it harder to evacuate the line. There are tools that would allow you to deal with that to include freezing the line, but you don't have access. There are other tools designed to be used to block water IF you have a full-port valve, but you don't have that either.

If you can't get the water out, you can't really solder or unsolder the old fittings/valve. A wetvac can help.

I don't have any experience doing this, but if you were really lucky, you might be able to unscrew the guts, and replace them if you could find an exact replacement, but that's unlikley.

 

[Sdsad123]

There may have been a delay after you posted before the picture showed up...wasn't there when I looked!

You may need the utility to shut your water off at the main, and those don't always work perfectly, so a little bit may drip through making it harder to evacuate the line. There are tools that would allow you to deal with that to include freezing the line, but you don't have access. There are other tools designed to be used to block water IF you have a full-port valve, but you don't have that either.

If you can't get the water out, you can't really solder or unsolder the old fittings/valve. A wetvac can help.

I don't have any experience doing this, but if you were really lucky, you might be able to unscrew the guts, and replace them if you could find an exact replacement, but that's unlikley.

Ah, when it rains it pours huh?! Thanks for the info even if it’s not what I wanted to hear haha.

 

[Sdsad123]

Called a plumber. Turns out its gonna be a pretty pricey repair. Gotta dig from behind the wall since immediately after what you can see is in concrete, widen the concrete a bit so they can repair the leak with a pipe with a sleeve and add a ball valve. Really sucks but thats okay I guess. Have to schedule it.

 

[Jeff H Young]

you can temporarily leave that existing gate valve and add one above it a valve of your choice as long as you dont have a leak . and monthes years later remove the stuck gate valve. but thats a real tight job might require digging down on outside the basement

 

[Sdsad123]

you can temporarily leave that existing gate valve and add one above it a valve of your choice as long as you dont have a leak . and monthes years later remove the stuck gate valve. but thats a real tight job might require digging down on outside the basement

Yeah, he gave me that option as well. There is a small leak apparently as you can see on the bottom of that fitting, but he said its fine as the concrete is probably sealing it tightly. To put a ball valve above the gate valve that is already there. That would cost approx $600. Honestly im tempted to just shut off the water at the street, put a shark bite ball valve in there, and pay for the proper repair in a few years but I dont know if thats crazy.

 

[Jadnashua]

FWIW, I live in a townhouse condominium. Each unit has its own shutoff, and there's one for the string of condos in our building. So, to replace my 30-year old shutoff that was no longer really working, shutting the main off and waiting for things to drain would have been nearly impossible. So, I shut the building off, cut the pipe and pushed on a SHarkbite valve that was off, then, I could turn the building back on for the other 9 units in the row. The valves work and have their place. I would have soldered one on, but it would have been really time consuming. There are tools you can buy that can seal the pipe off so you can solder, but I didn't own one, didn't really check on renting one, but definitely didn't see a use to own one. Water trying to drain through my cut pipe from 10-units, without being able to open any valves to enable the flow would have had it dribbling for ages.

It may be better to have the utility shut the run off as if that valve has issues, you could have problems getting flow back, or run into issues with them.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Yeah, he gave me that option as well. There is a small leak apparently as you can see on the bottom of that fitting, but he said its fine as the concrete is probably sealing it tightly. To put a ball valve above the gate valve that is already there. That would cost approx $600. Honestly im tempted to just shut off the water at the street, put a shark bite ball valve in there, and pay for the proper repair in a few years but I dont know if thats crazy.

I can't see where the leak is but the valve just being stuck in on position wouldn't scare me at all and I'd add a second valve since I'm replacing the other piping anyway. but in regards to leak you have, I can only guess in certain cases I'd be ok to wait and others I'd opt for the full repair now. Weather and Time of year might be an issue as well So its hard to advise.

 

[Sdsad123]

FWIW, I live in a townhouse condominium. Each unit has its own shutoff, and there's one for the string of condos in our building. So, to replace my 30-year old shutoff that was no longer really working, shutting the main off and waiting for things to drain would have been nearly impossible. So, I shut the building off, cut the pipe and pushed on a SHarkbite valve that was off, then, I could turn the building back on for the other 9 units in the row. The valves work and have their place. I would have soldered one on, but it would have been really time consuming. There are tools you can buy that can seal the pipe off so you can solder, but I didn't own one, didn't really check on renting one, but definitely didn't see a use to own one. Water trying to drain through my cut pipe from 10-units, without being able to open any valves to enable the flow would have had it dribbling for ages.

It may be better to have the utility shut the run off as if that valve has issues, you could have problems getting flow back, or run into issues with them.

Thanks! Yeah, ive used sharkbites/push to connect fittings several times before. I'm trying to decide if I should get this one or this one or even this one. My gut tells me the first one. Other than that I think im good to go. I cut (I guess in two spots), deburr, then slide the sharkbite in. Guess id have to angle it in since its fitting between two fixed pipes.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks! Yeah, ive used sharkbites/push to connect fittings several times before. I'm trying to decide if I should get this one or this one or even this one. My gut tells me the first one. Other than that I think im good to go. I cut (I guess in two spots), deburr, then slide the sharkbite in. Guess id have to angle it in since its fitting between two fixed pipes.

For the slip valve, you need 4.5+2.5 = 7 inches of space. You will need to be able to move one of the pipes out of line to allow insertion. No angling it in.

 

[Sdsad123]

For the slip valve, you need 4.5+2.5 = 7 inches of space. You will need to be able to move one of the pipes out of line to allow insertion. No angling it in.

Oh, okay, that's a lot more than necessary. I'll get the regular one. Hopefully this is pretty straightforward. Thank you very much!

 

[Reach4]

Oh, okay, that's a lot more than necessary. I'll get the regular one. Hopefully this is pretty straightforward. Thank you very much!

I am not seeing how a regular one will help. You will need a gap, and then fill the gap. Are you working in the space shown in your picture, or elsewhere?

 

[Sdsad123]

I am not seeing how a regular one will help. You will need a gap, and then fill the gap. Are you working in the space shown in your picture, or elsewhere?

Okay, I’m quite stupid—I see now that I do need the slip valve. I watched a YouTube video and it helped me understand what they’re for. That’d be perfect; I have a little wiggle room and don’t have to put strain on the pipes. Though I saw it in the store today and it looked a lot smaller than I imagined. I guess I’ll have to make a couple cuts. Thank you very much for helping!