Ice Maker Connection to 1" PEX

Users who are viewing this thread

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
This is the best plumbing forum I know of, so I wanted to run it by y'all. I think it'll work but just wanted someone to sanity check it for me.

I've got a water softener in my garage with what appears to be 1" inlet/outlet pex lines. Near that water softener I've got my garage refrigerator, and I'd like to run an icemaker line to it. I figured that I could put a 1"x1"x1/2" pex tee (like this: Tee) in that outlet line , add a short piece of 1" PEX to reconnect the stainless flex line to the softener and then a short piece of 1/2" PEX off the tee to a valve like this: Ice Maker Valve . Anything wrong with this?

Shark bites might cost a bit less than the clamp rings in this instance if I factor in the tool, rings, etc., but I've got a bunch of those sorry Accor plastic stop valves I need to replace in this house anyway, so I'd be able to use that equipment later.

I appreciate the help!

A couple photos (recently moved in, so it's a bit messy):

vIf7jvz.jpg


QqZe9kK.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
Not the way you describe it I dont see a problem shark bite instead of a crimp on one or 2 joints exposed? protected against damage, strapped properly , but just wondering why use a crimp on the anglestop and shark bites on the other ? why put one crimp joint?
 

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
Not the way you describe it I dont see a problem shark bite instead of a crimp on one or 2 joints exposed? protected against damage, strapped properly , but just wondering why use a crimp on the anglestop and shark bites on the other ? why put one crimp joint?
I was planning on using clamps on all of my new connections, which would be (2) 1" clamps on the tee, (1) 1/2" clamp on the tee, and (1) 1/2" clamp on the icemaker valve. The 1" PEX outlet from that water softener actually does not have a ball valve (it's kind of hidden in the photo). The one that currently has the Sharkbite ball valve is on the inlet side of the water softener, and I wasn't going to mess with anything there. Here's a better photo of the pipe I'll actually be working with:

4jKBXyf.jpg


And then photos of the fittings I plan to install to make this work:

301541259_usn.jpg

1652965744548.jpeg
 

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
Oh, just thought of one more question. As you can see, those stainless corrugated lines running to the water softener use a push fit connection (basically shark bite) on the 1" PEX line. Do I need to trim back that 1" PEX where there push fit connector was so I can use my clamp connection? Not sure if that connector damages the outside to where it needs to be cut back. I'm thinking it doesn't really damage it, but just wanted to be sure.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
the shark bite could score the od of pipe you can inspect it to be sure. I thought you didn't have a tool to crimp or clamp you've got a solid plan
 

John Gayewski

In the Trades
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
1,319
Points
113
Location
Iowa
For what your doing its all fine, but you have type a expansion PEX. If your going to buy a tool I'd buy the expansion tool.
 

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
For what your doing its all fine, but you have type a expansion PEX. If your going to buy a tool I'd buy the expansion tool.
Thanks for the input! Will the clamp method still work OK for this? If not, I'll need to return the tool. Looks like the expansion tools are quite a bit more expensive!

I know the PEX A expansion method is better with regards to flow rates, but was hoping it would be negligible since it's one fitting. Also I was thinking about using the clamps on my supply stops since it seems they are easier to remove if needed and also damage less length of PEX in the event replacement is needed.

This is what the builders blessed me with, so I was hoping to take care of this problem too:
k39heGw.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
I hate those stops, we had them on PEX and it scratched it up under cabinet I used a push fit (shark bite ) adapter but Im not crazy about those fittings since it wasent in a wall I went with it
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,794
Reaction score
4,411
Points
113
Location
IL
1. The softened water would have the softened water on the left as you face the unit.
2. It looks to me as if your stainless connector hose from the softener has something similar to a John Guest connector.
3. I don't know if we can presume that you have type A PEX (F1960) that you can use expansion fittings on. Given that the contractor used the Accor supply stops, I expect he went for the cheaper system. "Accor" is a good search term for you.
4. As pointed out above, you can use the fitting that you pictured (F1807) or plastic F2159 fittings using either crimp rings or stainless clamp rings. Either way, your access seems limited without moving the softener, or at least the brine tank. https://www.pexuniverse.com/types-of-pex-fittings
 

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
1. The softened water would have the softened water on the left as you face the unit.
2. It looks to me as if your stainless connector hose from the softener has something similar to a John Guest connector.
3. I don't know if we can presume that you have type A PEX (F1960) that you can use expansion fittings on. Given that the contractor used the Accor supply stops, I expect he went for the cheaper system. "Accor" is a good search term for you.
4. As pointed out above, you can use the fitting that you pictured (F1807) or plastic F2159 fittings using either crimp rings or stainless clamp rings. Either way, your access seems limited without moving the softener, or at least the brine tank. https://www.pexuniverse.com/types-of-pex-fittings
Thanks for all the good info! The only reason I think it might be type A PEX is that I can see the connections at the water heaters. Do you think this is type A from the photo? Also, I've just received a bunch of BrassCraft supply stops. I'll be busy over the next few days/weeks swapping these out!:

XQ8JSQF.jpg


phCmuxq.jpg
 

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
Thanks for the help everyone! I installed the Tee on the outlet side of my water softener to supply water to my garage fridge and it seems to be working like a champ, and no leaks. Now to see if my icemaker functions after being off for 6-months...

SL99Jkj.jpg
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,794
Reaction score
4,411
Points
113
Location
IL
Yes, that would be type A PEX. Unfortunately the red Uponor PEX has had significant failure rates, and it seems that is largely in hot areas.
 

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
Yes, that would be type A PEX. Unfortunately the red Uponor PEX has had significant failure rates, and it seems that is largely in hot areas.
Ugh, that's no good. Hopefully that doesn't rear it's ugly head here. The house was built in 2015, so I'm wondering if it was a specific timeframe. I'll do some research.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks