I need a new acid neutralizer/softener so have some questions...

[Zak77]

Here's the history: I purchased my house about 10 years ago which is on well water. Well is about 350' ft deep +/- and only generates about .5 gallons per minute. Right now it's only me in the house but for resale value i'd like a system meant for 4 people . The issue with the water is that it's acidic, green staining in fixtures. I've tested it numerous times over the years and usually came back with a 5.7-6.5 ph pre-treatment with a 6.7-7ph post-treatment. The current system is a Master NS-20T, yes older system so want to replace it. Whole house filter installed pre-neutralizer.

So i set a water sample out to a lab to get tested but i also tested it using some of my own inexpensive testers so i know they arent that accurate. The day i set the sample out i tested the ph with a new, calibrated ph meter and came back with 5.7 pre-treatment and 6.7 post-treatment at kitchen faucet. I also tested TDS and pre-treatment was 44, post was 88. I just got the results from the water test and these are the results:

Coliform Bacteria-Absent
Arsenic-<.001
Chloride 10.3
copper .102
free chlorine <.02
harness 20.3
iron .013
lead .0017
manganese .007
nitrate .26
nitrite <.004
ph 7.32
sodium 8.6
sulfate 7.0
TDS 61
turbidity <.20

As you can see their ph number is far different than my readings, which have stayed relatively steady over the years. I even had my buddy who runs the municipal water treatment facility test the ph several years ago and he came back in the ballpark i've been seeing. So can anyone shed some light on what's going on and what i should do? Thanks guys!!

 

[Reach4]

So i set a water sample out to a lab to get tested but i also tested it using some of my own inexpensive testers so i know they arent that accurate.

I presume you set a sample of raw water, and not treated water. You might go ahead and stay that explicitly.

The day i set the sample out i tested the ph with a new, calibrated ph meter and came back with 5.7 pre-treatment and 6.7 post-treatment at kitchen faucet.

Calibrated by you by dipping into a 7 pH buffer solution that you made up with measured volume/weight distilled water from a buffer calibration packet, or from pre-mixed caibration solution? If you ordered the device calibrated, and expected it to stay in calibration, that is probably not likely to work.

 

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[Zak77]

Yes i sent in RAW water.

Calibrated by you by dipping into a 7 pH buffer solution(techically it was a 6.86ph solution) that you made up with measured volume/weight distilled water from a buffer calibration packet AND the correct temp of the water-- Correct!

 

[ditttohead]

pH is not a proper test to determine waters aggressiveness, it is only a part of the equation. Your low TDS is a big factor. You may be better off with injection rather than a calcite/corosex system. pH injection systems will typically raise the pH without adding hardness and can also include polyphosphate. Your water is really quite nice!

 

[Zak77]

I talked to the local Board of Health regarding the PH readings and it was suggested i take a water sample then let it sit in the fridge for a couple days then test to see where the ph is. So i tested it as soon as i took it, about a 6.4, then let it sit for 24 hours in the fridge and it was right at 7.0ph.

I'm still on the fence on whether a chemical injection system might be better than a Calcite system. My well guy, who's hopefully coming out today to talk about it, recommends a calcite and softener system. I know there are pros and cons to both.

 

[ditttohead]

Either will work. It just is a little silly to take soft water, raise it, then remove it... Many companies are not well versed in water treatment and they stick with what they know. This is a good thing since you are not going to end up being their guinea pig while they learn new water treatment methods. Either way, you will have some maintenance.