I can't get pressure switch to shut off pump without having to hit switch with wrench or turn disconnect switch from on to off and back to on again.

[amateur hour]

My deep well F&W 3/4 hp pump will not quit running without me having to hit switch with wrench or shutting disconnect switch off and back on again! I lowered the pressure to 35PSI from 40 PSI and sometimes this works. I even added more air to old galvanized water pressure tank but didn't improve pressure by more than 2 PSI according to pressure guage on control valve on pump. Is my old 1988 pump bad or could the new ejector and new sand point with check valve in well be bad?

 

[Fitter30]

There's two adjustments on the switch here's a link. Will the pump gain pressure while running with all the valves closed in the house or at the ex tank? If pump doesn't gain pressure where it might have before either the piping has a hole in it or the pump is failing ( possible impellers). If pump gains pressure replace the switch the bellow in the switch has a small hole to the bellows that can get clogged up and can't really clean them.

How To Adjust a Pressure Switch

The starting and stopping of a well water pump is typically controlled by a pressure switch similar to the one shown below. The switch is preset with both the cut-on and cut-off pressure. The cut-on pressure is the low pressure that starts the pump...

www.rcworst.com

 

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[Reach4]

You are saying the pump will not turn off. How high does the pressure get before you resort to hitting the pressure switch?

Does the pump pressure rise slower and slower until it levels out and you hit the switch? Or is the pressure still climbing when you hit the pressure switch?

Sand point, with a 2 inch casing and the pump above ground?.

 

[amateur hour]

You are saying the pump will not turn off. How high does the pressure get before you resort to hitting the pressure switch?

Does the pump pressure rise slower and slower until it levels out and you hit the switch? Or is the pressure still climbing when you hit the pressure switch?

Sand point, with a 2 inch casing and the pump above ground?.

I just see a constant pressure of 35 to 37 and sometimes 40 and pump seems to not go any higher so it levels out . I do have a check valve inside sndpoint at very bottom at 162.5 feet of water. Well is actually 182 feet in depth. I changed well tubes, ejector and sandpoint 1 and 1/2 yrs ago. I also changed from well seal to pitless adapters for both the 1" and 1 and1/4" inside PVC extension pipe. Since I added more air at schrader valve on tank it seems to be shutting off more often now but adjusting switch
to increase pressure makes it stay on too long. The pump runs from 4 to 10 minutes before shutting off.

 

[amateur hour]

There's two adjustments on the switch here's a link. Will the pump gain pressure while running with all the valves closed in the house or at the ex tank? If pump doesn't gain pressure where it might have before either the piping has a hole in it or the pump is failing ( possible impellers). If pump gains pressure replace the switch the bellow in the switch has a small hole to the bellows that can get clogged up and can't really clean them.

How To Adjust a Pressure Switch

The starting and stopping of a well water pump is typically controlled by a pressure switch similar to the one shown below. The switch is preset with both the cut-on and cut-off pressure. The cut-on pressure is the low pressure that starts the pump...

www.rcworst.com

I replaced the pressure switch with a new one but get same results. I have adjusted pressure switch and it does slowly rise in pressure with all valves closed off. With the valve closed from pump to tank it will start cycling rapidly after so many seconds of time.

 

[Reach4]

You used the term "sand point". You said "pitless". Those don't go together. Perhaps you mean foot valve. A foot valve is a check valve combined with an intake screen.

What diameter is your well?

 

[Fitter30]

Either a bad check valve or the pipe has a hole in it. The extended run time proves that everything has to come out and inspected. Never heard of a sand point used with a deep well. 35 year old pump I'd replace it.

 

[Reach4]

I am thinking this is 2 pipes underground to a special concentric pitless atop a 2 inch casing. Down the well would be a an ejector/educator, and there would be a foot valve below that. There would be seals called "leathers".

So this would be like the "one pipe" deep jet pump often used in the south on 2 inch wells where the water is farther down. Just guessing tho. OP has not responded to my question about well size. Maybe he doesn't know, and doesn't know how to find out, and doesn't want to say that.

https://www.bakerwatersystems.com/p...deep-well-pitless-units-for-concentric-piping would be an example of such a pitless adapter.

 

[amateur hour]

You used the term "sand point". You said "pitless". Those don't go together. Perhaps you mean foot valve. A foot valve is a check valve combined with an intake screen.

What diameter is your well?

The diameter is about 4 and 1/2 inches in diameter. I used two pitless adapters in a 180 degree pattern from each other in a 6 in pvc pipe extension. Yes, the device toward the bottom is called a foot valve.

 

[Reach4]

That is wonderful news. That would be a 4 inch steel casing.

What I would do is to put in a Grundfos SQ 3-inch pump. That could feed thru one of the pitless adapter. You could probably feed the power wires through one of the pipes, but only up to the well. Not thru a pitless normally, but maybe that would work... hmm. I suggest a flow inducer. Homemade and cheap. I can help identify the thinner 3-inch PVC pipe that would be good for making that.

I am not sure if you could use a standard pitless to clear the pump. My 4 inch casing has a clearway/thruway (Merrill SMCK) pitless. An alternative is to get an adapter welded up to make the casing 5 inch where the pitless is.

If I get my trimline "4 inch" (actual 3.75 inch) pump replaced, I intend to go with an SQ pump. A 4 inch pump in 4 inch PVC casing is no problem. But steel casing can grow stuff that could get the pump stuck.


If interested in that, we can figure out the best model number for you. Depth to water, depth of well are the main numbers.

You would like to make the drop pipe be schedule 80 PVC with threaded connectors, OR use SIDR polyethylene pipe and hang the pump from that. The poly pipe is easier for DIY, and the PVC, especially 20 ft lengths, is better for a hoist truck.

 

[Valveman]

Tapping the switch is not going to help. Your pump is just not getting to 40 PSI so the switch can shut it off. That is very deep, even for a deep well jet pump. I think about 110' is as deep as the water can be. Maybe the water level is lower than the pump can handle. Could also be a problem with the jet in the ejector at the bottom, or a hole in the pipe.