How to remove bathroom floor - screwed down under glued-on vinyl sheet?

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AcidWater

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Over a year ago, my neighbor had a leak in his master bedroom bathroom shower. To find it, removed the one piece vinyl surround, glued & screwed to the studs. Then he thinks, "I want to replace this with tile." So the pan has to go - except a circular saw creates toxic smoke & clogs up. Anyway, he got it out finally.

Other major plumbing leaks occured & took priority (and money), now his wife is fed up.

THEN he says, "might as well put down a better floor too."
He started trying to peel up the floor, but it only "chips" off in pieces.
So he has ruined a couple square feet of the floor, so its gotta come out.
IS THERE A SOLVENT TO LOOSEN THE GLUE ??
Would need to get some vapor cannisters for the respirator.

The maybe 1/8" thick vinyl (?) flooring sheet is glued to a maybe 5/8" sheet (not sure if ply or strandboard) which is screwed down with not only 1 1/2" screws, but some 3" which I guess are placed into the joists below.

The sub-floor has some water damage that I can see, by the pan & behind the toilet. Not sure if there is more still hidden, or if it needs to be replaced.

Everything I can think of is a nightmare:
1) brute force w/ big crowbar - but the joists runs "shortways" in the room and we must work "longways" so the leverage is on the sub-floor & might just break the sub-floor. Bent screws harder to remove, and I expect they would mostly be the the 3" screws.

2) use a magnet to find the screws, use a router bit to remove the 1/8" vinyl above each screw, use a pick to scrape the slot clean, and remove. Screws in the couple square feet of exposed area did remove easily.

3) Use a circular saw thru both flooring & sub-floor, just beside each joist. Then for the remaining strips on top of the joists, either find the screws as 2) above, or use a vibratory blade tool slid above the joist to saw them off. Dunno what to do as we approach the walls - use a jigsaw or the vibratory saw I guess. Have to create a temp floor to stand on as we work.

4) Tile on top of existing vinyl ? Does that work? But it would make a trip hazard at the entryway, since the existing flooring is a bit raised above the bedroom level.
 

Reach4

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The maybe 1/8" thick vinyl (?) flooring sheet is glued to a maybe 5/8" sheet (not sure if ply or strandboard) which is screwed down with not only 1 1/2" screws, but some 3" which I guess are placed into the joists below.
If those are Philips head screws, you might consider drilling with a bit a little bigger than the shank. If flat head, it's harder to center the drill bit, but you might find a way. An angle grinder might be useful, presuming you are not intending to save the wood. After the wood is lifted away in pieces, the angle grinder can remove the screw shank portion above the joists. Goggles are a must. I don't speak from experience, other than needing goggles. Wear a mask too, for breathing.
 

AcidWater

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If those are Philips head screws, you might consider drilling with a bit a little bigger than the shank. If flat head, it's harder to center the drill bit, but you might find a way. An angle grinder might be useful, presuming you are not intending to save the wood. After the wood is lifted away in pieces, the angle grinder can remove the screw shank portion above the joists. Goggles are a must. I don't speak from experience, other than needing goggles. Wear a mask too, for breathing.

If we could remove the flooring to expose the screws, they would be easy to unscrew. Its exposing them that is the problem
 

Reach4

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A metal detector pinpointer might be good for finding where the screws are. Then just attack those spots.

This presumes you can figure out where the joists are. Drilling along the joists from below could help you locate the joists.
 

AcidWater

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Finding only the screws in the joists would be less tedious than ALL of them, removing them still a PIA, and then using a crowbar might still ruin the underlayment...

At least they don't seem to have glued the 5/8' sheet to the underlayment.

The other plumbing problem involved removing some of the ceiling in the kitchen below this bathroom, so drilling beside the joists to find them seems doable... could also be done from above with a good studfinder though.
 

Reach4

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Finding only the screws in the joists would be less tedious than ALL of them, removing them still a PIA, and then using a crowbar might still ruin the underlayment...
Are you distinguishing between underlayment and subfloor? Are there two wooden layers above the joists?
 

wwhitney

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If there are two layers of wood structural panel (subfloor, then underlayment), and they are attached to each other only by screws, then the typical strategy would be to use a circular saw with the blade depth carefully set to cut through the sheet good and 90% of the underlayment thickness to divide the flooring into strips or squares. Then you can break out the underlayment plus glued vinyl together by using a prybar between the underlayment and subfloor. (First piece is the hardest.)

Cheers, Wayne
 

AcidWater

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Are you distinguishing between underlayment and subfloor? Are there two wooden layers above the joists?
There is a "sub floor" on the joists, the usual 4x8 panels
There is a 5/8 sheet screwed and I think NOT glued, with both 1 1/2" and 3" screws (I guess the 3" are over the joists)
A thick flooring sheet , maybe 1/8", rubbery vinyl-ey, is glued on top.
 

AcidWater

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If there are two layers of wood structural panel (subfloor, then underlayment), and they are attached to each other only by screws, then the typical strategy would be to use a circular saw with the blade depth carefully set to cut through the sheet good and 90% of the underlayment thickness to divide the flooring into strips or squares. Then you can break out the underlayment plus glued vinyl together by using a prybar between the underlayment and subfloor. (First piece is the hardest.)

But I don't know where the screws are. How many blades will I ruin hitting screws?
Maybe worth trying to find them with a magnet & mark with a sharpie marker.

OR lay out a cut line & check the line. Yeah...

BUT - really want to unscrew the long ones from the joists, I don't think a crowbar on them would be a good idea.
 

wwhitney

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BUT - really want to unscrew the long ones from the joists, I don't think a crowbar on them would be a good idea.
The pry bar is just used between the two plywood layers. Often the screws will break through the upper layer and you have to go back and remove them.

Cheers, Wayne
 

AcidWater

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Brainstorm: use a hole cutter around screws that are along the cut line. Then after removing the backer, use a virbratory tool to split the plug away from the screw.
 

Jadnashua

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I've used blades designed for this...they don't really have an issue with screws or nails unless they are weird, hardened ones. The teeth are blocky and carbide, so harder than the steel in any fastener you'd find.
 
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