How to install PVC for sump pump with just one person?

[Tim Moyer]

When installing a 90 degree elbow to a horizontal piece that goes through the house to a crawl space, how does one person provide enough pressure on either side of the house to connect the two?
I plan to have two people, but was curious how the pros do it.

 

[Reach4]

You are gluing schedule 40 PVC? That is joined one joint at a time.

By pressure, are you talking about the force to insert the pipe into the fitting, after primer and PVC cement has been applied, and then to maintain the force for 30 seconds so that the pipe does not pop out of the fitting?

I would think that two people would be handy so that one could hold the far end of the pipe, allowing you to add the hanger. Working alone, I would think you would want to have the hanger hold the pipe up. An adjustable stand looks like it could be useful. https://www.harborfreight.com/250-l...guide-58810.html?_br_psugg_q=adjustable+stand

In drainage for PVC, foam core is sufficient and a little lighter. For pressure, you use the heavier solid PVC, that is also pressure rated. I am not a pro.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[wwhitney]

If I understand correctly the challenge you are describing, it is making up a horizontal glue joint where you don't have enough exposed pipe to hold onto while you push the fitting on, and where the pipe is not fixed so it would move if you push against it.

The solution is to temporarily negate one of those two limits. So if you can't arrange for enough pipe to be exposed to hold onto, you need to arrange for it to be fixed so you can push against it. By temporarily securing it as necessary.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Reach4]

horizontal piece that goes through the house to a crawl space,

Are you talking about a pipe going thru a foundation wall between outdoors and the crawl space?

Outdoor PVC should be protected from the sun. Latex paint is one way. https://www.charlottepipe.com/articles/combating-uv-degradation-in-plastic-piping-systems

 

[Tim Moyer]

Thanks.
Here are a few other things I read before I DIY this for the first time:

-I should measure my PVC lengths from socket to socket instead of dry, as the primer/cement soften the pipe and allow for further insertion.
-I should drill a 3/16" weep hole angled up at a 45 degree angle just above the 1 1/2" threaded adapter above the pump.
- install a check valve about a foot or so above the pump before using 45's to angle the pipe to the crawl space walll (about 1-2 feet away from the pump). I'm using a rubber one from Superior pumps.
-cover the sump pit to help with radon levels
-Use a 2" hole saw of 1 1/2" PVC

Any other thoughts/suggestions before I have at it tomorrow?

 

[Tim Moyer]

Are you talking about a pipe going thru a foundation wall between outdoors and the crawl space?

Outdoor PVC should be protected from the sun. Latex paint is one way. https://www.charlottepipe.com/articles/combating-uv-degradation-in-plastic-piping-systems

Yes. Good to know. The exposed pipe is on the north side of the home and doesn't receive any direct sun.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks.
Here are a few other things I read before I DIY this for the first time:

-I should measure my PVC lengths from socket to socket instead of dry, as the primer/cement soften the pipe and allow for further insertion.
-I should drill a 3/16" weep hole angled up at a 45 degree angle just above the 1 1/2" threaded adapter above the pump.
- install a check valve about a foot or so above the pump before using 45's to angle the pipe to the crawl space walll (about 1-2 feet away from the pump). I'm using a rubber one from Superior pumps.
-cover the sump pit to help with radon levels
-Use a 2" hole saw of 1 1/2" PVC

Any other thoughts/suggestions before I have at it tomorrow?

1. Hole should be angled to point the water down when the pipe is pressurized. You may think of that as angled up while you are drilling.

2. Consider how you will replace or inspect the pump. Some check valves have a combined union. A single union is likely not enough to let you pull the pump. I think it could work together with a cut in the pipe that is covered by a shielded coupling.

3. If you have radon, consider putting a radon fan sucking on the pit, and exhausting outside.

 

[Bannerman]

If installing an elbow to a horizontal short pipe protrusion through the outside of the foundation wall, simply adhere the elbow to the pipe to exit the wall, before inserting the pipe through the wall from the exterior. You can then adhere the opposite end of the pipe within the crawl space, where you can use both hands.

Affix a short piece of masking tape to the interior section of pipe before insertion, so as to identify the correct orientation of the exterior elbow.

 

[Tim Moyer]

Can I use a 2" hole saw through the rim joist for the 1 1/2" PVC or should I get a larger one?

 

[Reach4]

1-1/2 PVC is 1.900 OD. A 2-inch hole saw should be fine. Just make sure the drill is pointed the right way.

 

[Tim Moyer]

Success! No leaks...at least not yet, you never know with plumbing.
I'll probably use one of those 55" flexible downspout extensions during spring and winter if we ever get a lot of snow. I also plan to paint the exterior PVC the color of our siding with exterior latex. My understanding is this beneficial to protect the PVC from UV rays.
Part of the project was adding a GFCI in the crawl space for the pump and work lights that I strung all around so I can be sure I'm working alone down there.
I wonder how much I saved between running the electric for GFCI, installing the outlet, and installing PVC to drain to the exterior?
Some other improvements to the crawl has been encapsulating it ( I paid a company to do this), adding a dehumidifier with pump, adding a smart thermostat with humidity sensor, a water alarm near the sump pit, a camera (because why not), and an airthings radon detector. The last four things work with my phone and with Alexa.
Thanks for everyone's help, much appreciated.

 

[Tim Moyer]

I assume it is normal for the sump pump to be louder now that is connected to PVC vs a lay flat hose. My guess is the PVC makes the sound travel better and also the PVC going through the rim joist can also add to the noise. Lastly, the check valve (which I did not have connected prior) could also add some noise.
I never heard the pump when using the lay flat hose, but now we can hear when it runs for a couple seconds.

 

[Reach4]

I would not have use GFCI for the sump pump. Maybe add an alarm for if the sump pump fails due to GFCI trip or other reason.

but now we can hear when it runs for a couple seconds.

If you ever replace that pump go for a lower-power pump. Zoeller M63 Premium Cast Iron Submersible Sump Pump w/ Vertical Float Switch is a premium pump.

 

[Tim Moyer]

Thanks for the suggestion.
I think a GFCI is now code for sump pumps here in NJ. I have a water alarm just outside of the sump basin.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks for the suggestion.
I think a GFCI is now code for sump pumps here in NJ. I have a water alarm just outside of the sump basin.

I understand. Then I would have the GFCI for the inspection.

The water alarm is a great idea. You might put attending to the alarm batteries on you annual maintenance list.

 

[cdherman]

Since the water alarm is mentioned in the last post, I'll chime in with this idea. I bought a Honeywell water alarm that reports both temperature and rapid rises in humidity. But instead of mounting both in the basement, I mounted the control unit (which measures ambient temp) upstairs, inside a closet where its easy to access, but out of the way, drilled a hole through the floor and placed the water detection end in the basement (or crawlspace). I had to purchase and extension IIRC. But to a crawlspace, perhaps not needed.

Anyhow, what's nice is that I get water detection in the basement and ambient air temps in the main house. And when the batteries fail, its a quick fix in the closet versus a trek into the basement (or worse, a crawl space)

I agree with the GFCI delete, but only if the sump pump circuit is isolated from other loads that would benefit from a GFCI. I have personally decided that refrigerators, freezers, radon fans, sump pumps should not be GFCI protected. (List not exhaustive, may be others) But you better make sure that circuit is dedicated and won't have some idiot jump in the hot tub with a hair dryer.

 

[Tim Moyer]

I was foolish enough to put a Watchdog alarm next to the pit. It worked, but it woke everyone up in the middle of the night.
I exchanged it with a smart alarm that doesn't wake everyone up, but instead sends an alert to my phone.
The GFCI is on the end of a circuit run, so if I understand correctly, it can't cut power to anything that comes before it. If it trips because of the pump (nuisance trip), it is easy enough to swap out. The only other thing that I plug into it are work lights when I'm in the crawl.

 

[Jackyu051]

To install PVC for a sump pump alone, measure and cut the pipes to the correct length. Smooth the edges and dry-fit the pieces to check alignment. Apply primer and cement to the pipe and fitting, twist them together, and hold firmly for a few seconds to secure the bond.

Use tools like pipe clamps, supports, or straps to stabilize the pipes while you work. Flexible rubber couplings can simplify connections and allow adjustments.

Assemble the system in smaller sections, starting with individual joints before connecting larger pieces. Inspect all connections carefully and test for leaks by running water through the system. Replace 90-degree elbows with 45-degree ones to improve water flow and reduce pump strain.