HELP Well Head

[tim3839]

I've been trying to get the cover of an old well head removed....so far it has proven impossible I have twisted 1 bolt off. Ok, now i know nothing about wells. I am assuming when i get the head off there will be a pipe to the bottom of the well. The well is 89 feet for irrigation. This was a main well for an orchard was installed in 1965. According to the paper work the well is set up for 5 hp 220 electric pump. This way over kill for my use. I am looking to install a Deep Well Submersible Pump with 100FT Power Cord, 1HP 110V Deep Well Pump Submersible Water Pump to run a few yard sprinklers.
Any help would be great.

 

[Valveman]

That is a split well seal. Do not want to remove the bolts completely or the other half will fall down the well. Just loosen them and pull up on the pipes. Two pipes down the well usually means it was a deep well jet pump. But a submersible will be better. Use 230V pump for a 1HP at that length or the amperage will be too high for the wire.

If those two steel pipes are set at 80' it will be heavy to pull.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I expect the weight is hanging from that elbow. You would have to provide a lot of lift.

 

[tim3839]

That is a split well seal. Do not want to remove the bolts completely or the other half will fall down the well. Just loosen them and pull up on the pipes. Two pipes down the well usually means it was a deep well jet pump. But a submersible will be better. Use 230V pump for a 1HP at that length or the amperage will be too high for the wire.

If those two steel pipes are set at 80' it will be heavy to pull.

Thank you,
I now have twisted 2 of the bolts off now. I there a way to get this seal off without loosening the bolts? The well has not been used in over 25 years.

 

[Valveman]

The bolts just tighten the rubber gasket in the middle. Just takes a little more pull on the pipe to get the seal to slide out if the bolts are tight.

 

[Reach4]

The bolts just tighten the rubber gasket in the middle. Just takes a little more pull on the pipe to get the seal to slide out if the bolts are tight.

And what you call a little more, Tim would probably call a lot more. Think hydraulic jack.

 

[Bannerman]

As shown below, the well seal is 4 metal plates with a rubber center sandwiched between. Tightening the bolts draws the 2 bottom plates toward the top ones, which causes the rubber center to be squeezed and push outward against the inner wall of the well casing. The well seal is only secured by the friction of the rubber pushing against the well casing, which is why forcing the seal upward should cause the entire assembly to release from the casing.

Breaking off the bolts will cause one or both bottom plates to drop into the well, which is then likely to become wedged between the casing and ejector/foot valve, thereby potentially preventing anything from being pulled out from the casing.

 

[tim3839]

Thanks for all the help!

Update, Well seal remains strong. In the pictures you can see what i am trying to do. How ever I put as much pressure i can put on it and nothing. Now the question, Is there any way it more than just a rubber seal? Something like bolted on.
Thank you

 

[Valveman]

Pipe could also be stuck in the well. Sometimes all you can do is pull harder until something breaks. I have seen them come loose and the pipe spring up and slam back down. Can be fairly violent. Heat might help burn the rubber or soften it.

 

[tim3839]

Pipe could also be stuck in the well. Sometimes all you can do is pull harder until something breaks. I have seen them come loose and the pipe spring up and slam back down. Can be fairly violent. Heat might help burn the rubber or soften it.

Thank you
Off to conquer the well. Yeah right!

 

[2stupid2fixit]

Tap on it with a mini sledge in all directions for at least an hour. TAP on it, deliberately, but not like you are trying to knock it into next week or teach it a lesson it won't forget. The idea is for the brute tapping force to dislodge and break free the metals that are causing a tight interference fit. As mentioned before, whatever apparatus hangs down the well could be stuck within the casing too. i'd go get the biggest floor jack from menards/tractor supply/home depot/harbor freight that you can find. make a fulcrum on one side of it out of something that wont crush or move, like a car jack stand, then slide something that will not easily bend under that 90, like a car half shaft from a junkyard. Axles are pretty strong. put the floor jack under the car axle so the lifting force rides against the fulcrum, with the lifting energy of the floor jack driving hydraulic force up towards the sky. I recommend eye protection, a hard hat and welding gloves. While you are applying lifting force via the floor jack, It might be a good idea to cover the whole thing with that thick blanket that goes between a horse and the saddle, in case any of that metal breaks and goes flying, you will want it dampered and deflected from hitting you. Safety first. If the well hasn't been used in 25 years, it won't hurt to ensure you are doing things safely. I am not an expert but it looks like gravity and inertia are the things you should be looking out for. Gravity: if all the stuff below the cap is held by the cap and you break the fasteners loose, and your hand is in the wrong place at the wrong time, it will attempt to take you with it. Inertia: If you apply enough force to the cap from underneath and the metal breaks, it will go flying until slowed down by a horse blanket or a part of your body, or your dog, or the new window of your house. Think schrapnel.

 

[Fitter30]

2" Schedule 40 pipe weighs 3.68 lbs a foot. That pipe wrench is to small also when removing fittings need two wrenches 36" one for the stationary pipe the other to turn the fitting. A 2 lb hammer smacking fitting wrench right below the head on the handle with tension on the wrench helps to jar the fitting. That 1/4 ton cable winch puller isn't heavy enough. With that much weight id be afraid that the chain might slip off a riser clamp on pipe up against the coupling would help. Would use two 5-10 ton hydraulic bottle jacks and solid steel bar between the jacks and through the chain.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Empire-Industries-50SAG0200-2-Electro-Galvanized-Short-Arm-Riser-Clamp?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_Plumbing&utm_campaign=Shopping_X_Plumbing_X_SSC_New&utm_campaignid=22376725605&utm_adgroupid=175817623134&utm_targetid=pla-2348139003970&utm_product_id=50SAG0200&utm_matchtype=&utm_keyword=&utm_adtype=pla&utm_category=Plumbing&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22376725605&gbraid=0AAAAAD_WAyvRyL-7WcAnqV-zJFWNjUWKg&gclid=CjwKCAjw7fzDBhA7EiwAOqJkh5GFsXwjhCRQIilC68Bprqeglk6e5gGIhOaxVG4rf8yy78Dnsf6-QBoCoawQAvD_BwE

 

[2stupid2fixit]

2" Schedule 40 pipe weighs 3.68 lbs a foot. That pipe wrench is to small also when removing fittings need two wrenches 36" one for the stationary pipe the other to turn the fitting. A 2 lb hammer smacking fitting wrench right below the head on the handle with tension on the wrench helps to jar the fitting. That 1/4 ton cable winch puller isn't heavy enough. With that much weight id be afraid that the chain might slip off a riser clamp on pipe up against the coupling would help. Would use two 5-10 ton hydraulic bottle jacks and solid steel bar between the jacks and through the chain.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Empire-Industries-50SAG0200-2-Electro-Galvanized-Short-Arm-Riser-Clamp?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_Plumbing&utm_campaign=Shopping_X_Plumbing_X_SSC_New&utm_campaignid=22376725605&utm_adgroupid=175817623134&utm_targetid=pla-2348139003970&utm_product_id=50SAG0200&utm_matchtype=&utm_keyword=&utm_adtype=pla&utm_category=Plumbing&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22376725605&gbraid=0AAAAAD_WAyvRyL-7WcAnqV-zJFWNjUWKg&gclid=CjwKCAjw7fzDBhA7EiwAOqJkh5GFsXwjhCRQIilC68Bprqeglk6e5gGIhOaxVG4rf8yy78Dnsf6-QBoCoawQAvD_BwE

ah you made a good direction to explaining the techniques I mentioned before. Well done, I couldn't have said it better myself.

 

[tim3839]

Tap on it with a mini sledge in all directions for at least an hour. TAP on it, deliberately, but not like you are trying to knock it into next week or teach it a lesson it won't forget. The idea is for the brute tapping force to dislodge and break free the metals that are causing a tight interference fit. As mentioned before, whatever apparatus hangs down the well could be stuck within the casing too. i'd go get the biggest floor jack from menards/tractor supply/home depot/harbor freight that you can find. make a fulcrum on one side of it out of something that wont crush or move, like a car jack stand, then slide something that will not easily bend under that 90, like a car half shaft from a junkyard. Axles are pretty strong. put the floor jack under the car axle so the lifting force rides against the fulcrum, with the lifting energy of the floor jack driving hydraulic force up towards the sky. I recommend eye protection, a hard hat and welding gloves. While you are applying lifting force via the floor jack, It might be a good idea to cover the whole thing with that thick blanket that goes between a horse and the saddle, in case any of that metal breaks and goes flying, you will want it dampered and deflected from hitting you. Safety first. If the well hasn't been used in 25 years, it won't hurt to ensure you are doing things safely. I am not an expert but it looks like gravity and inertia are the things you should be looking out for. Gravity: if all the stuff below the cap is held by the cap and you break the fasteners loose, and your hand is in the wrong place at the wrong time, it will attempt to take you with it. Inertia: If you apply enough force to the cap from underneath and the metal breaks, it will go flying until slowed down by a horse blanket or a part of your body, or your dog, or the new window of your house. Think schrapnel.

Thank you, I will get things together and give it a shot.