Help me rehab an old well ......

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William Perkins

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Hi - I'm a newbie both to this forum & to water well systems. I need some guidance/advise to resurrect a well in the back yard of this rent hse I've lived in for 8+ years.

My landlady's man friend,Larry, also does most of her maintenance/repairs at several properties. When he saw that I was watering the lawn regularly enough to keep it green in a very hot, dry summer in west central Texas, about 120 miles S.W. of Ft. Worth, he mentioned getting the well to producing. The deal is that I would provide the equipment/parts, and he would do the labor at no charge. This would be a quick payoff for me ...... I used 14,000 gals. water last month (1400 gals. in Feb.) and my water bill was $113.

Last week, we pulled the old pump - a vertical pmp/mtr assy mtd over the 5" PVC casing ...... can't read the pump NP but the motor is 3/4-hp, 115/230 volt , 1-ph, cast iron encl., as is the pump - they are very heavy. The shaft is frozen, hence we consider both to be scrap. Following is what we have:

1. The well hse is a solid 4-wall cinder block surround about 4-1/2 ft high w/removable wood frame cover and corrugated metal top ....
2. The well casing is 5" PVC pipe with a 6" collar at floor leve ....
3. Water is at 32 ft. down the hole ....
4. Well bottom is at 64 ft.; about 6 ft. below the bottom of the black (pvc ?) tubes ....
5. The foot valve(s) and check valve in the assy at the bottom of the black tubes are good. Larry poured water down the tubes, and they stayed full.
6. The Sq. D. Type FSG-2 'Pumptrol' 2-pole PS is apparently in good condition; likewise the MCC Clayton Mark, 0 - 100 psig pressure gauge.
7. A 2-pole, 250 volt, 30 amp, Nema 3R, fused Safety Switch is in fair condition. It can possibly be cleaned up/repainted and reused. The fuses are 10-amp, slo-blo Shawmut screw type. This item was in the wellhouse.
There is a similar type device in the garage ..... source of the service drop.

That's about the best I can do at present. The black 1" and 1-1/4" tubes appear in excellent condition, as does the assy at the bottom of the tubes, and I believe these items could be reused if a new jet pump should be installed. Whatever system is installed, a new spcl bronze 'tank tee' would be required for mtg the PS, guage, check valve and tank drain valve; all this was just 'inline' before.

We are on municipal water here, and the sole purpose of the well will be for watering the lawn, trees, a few hedges and other decorative bushes. I would like to have a reliable, trouble free system operating that has a relatively steady pressure of about 55 - 60 psig. The water says out city pressure is 60 - 80 psi. I'm open to using either a jet pump or submersible pump ...... whichever will best suit the application.

I spent several hours reading threads on the forum last night, and was impressed by both the willingness of those willing to help others, and the vast knowledge of many of those posting helpful comments. Excuse the long post, but I felt it was best to lay it all on the line right 'upfront' instead of beating around the bush about it.

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. -- willperk
 

Bob NH

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Consider a Submersible

I would not put in a new deep well jet. Since it is a rental, and you are buying the pump, I would put in an inexpensive submersible. You need to be careful what pressure range you get because you have a relatively shallow well. You want high flow for the horsepower and you can get a 1/2 to 1 HP pump that will put out a lot of water for your lawn. Unless you plan to rent for more than 2 years, you will probably want to go with least expensive.

Considering 14,000 gallons per month (500 gallons per day), a 1/2 HP 10 GPM pump would pump that in 50 minutes each day, or a whole week worth of water in six hours.

This is probably a case where a CSV with small tank is the best (least expensive) solution.
 

Speedbump

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I agree with Bob.

If your not using this for anything but irrigating you may not need the pressure switch and tank. Just use a timer.

bob...
 
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