Help converting a porch light into an outlet

[inanium]

Hi folks,

I need some help converting an existing porch light into an outdoor rated outlet. The existing porch light is attached to a round box in an exterior stucco wall.

My first thought is that I should break away the stucco, replace the round box with a proper outlet box, patch the stucco, and install an outdoor rated outlet + outlet cover. It would be nice to preserve the existing round box though, in case a future owner wants a standard light installed again.

Second thought was to use one of the sketchy, possibly not code compliant, adapters like the TayMac PRBA400G and put the outlet + outlet cover on that.

Another option would be to just attach a surface mount round box over the existing, in-wall outlet box and run a short piece of conduit over to a surface mount outlet box. I'm less thrilled about that due to aesthetics.

Any thoughts here? This seems like a common problem with more folks wanting things like string lights instead of traditional porch light fixtures.

I'll have to convert the whole circuit to GFCI most likely as I think I can't get away with installing an outdoor rated GFCI as it would be out of reach and require a step ladder to perform the routine testing.

What do y'all go with for exterior sealants? The box is under a large eave and well protected but I'd still like to seal it. 100% silicone or is there a decent option that's paintable?

Thanks for any help.

 

[Afjes]

Before we go any further since you are new to the forum; Welcome

We don't know your electrical skills knowledge yet since you are new so excuse what might be a very simple question.
Are you aware of the fact that there is a 90% chance that since you want to make a light into a receptacle that this receptacle will be controlled by the switch that is now controlling the light. So the only time the receptacle will be energized is when the light switch is in the "on" position? The other 10% chance is that the wiring is in the direction of favoring your needs where the light switch will have no control over the receptacle and it will be live at all times.

The first 90% is that the power originates from the light switch box. The 2nd 10% is that the power originates from the light fixture box.

If you are comfortable enough doing this the first thing you need to do is shut the breaker off that powers this light. The best way to do it is to turn the light on and flip the breaker/s you believe shuts off the power to this circuit. The light goes off you know you have the correct breaker. Do not just shut the switch off without turning off the breaker. Reason is if the power originates from the light fixture box shutting off the switch will still leave the light fixture box "hot".

Pictures of both the light fixture box (with the light out of the box but still connected to the wires) and the switch box with the switch out of the box, wires showing and do not disconnect any wires yet.

Post these pics here and we can go from there.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[inanium]

Yeah, I've got a BS in electrical engineering and am an extra class ham radio operator. It's good you asked though since I didn't specify my background and lack of basic knowledge(and even a bunch of knowledge applied carelessly) can get one hurt or worse.

Unfortunately having a good understanding of electrical theory doesn't give one practical knowledge of how to safely do(or not overdo) many simple household electrical projects. That said, I've been doing home wiring for a few decades. In my old age I strive more to do things by the book and take my time, so here I am trying to access the community's pool of wisdom.

I am pretty confident I can come up with something safe and functional, but as I've learned in computer programming, sometimes it's better to not be clever and to choose the idiomatic solution. If nothing else, it will be more familiar to people who come after you and have to deal with your work.

Eventually the light switch will be removed, the faceplate filled with a blank, and a ZWave relay will be responsible for controlling power to the outlet. That's a project for another day though.

 

[bigb56]

Taymac is part of the respected Hubbell name for whatever that's worth. First I've seen of that adapter and I wish they would have existed years ago. I would give one a try if the present box is a 4/0 and it's orientation allows for the Taymac adapter to be secured in a straight and plumb manner.

For the GFCI I would cut in a new receptacle location inside the house in the same bay where the switch is then run your circuit through that box and put the GFCI there. That will work as long as there is a neutral present in the switch box which you'll want anyway for the ZWave.

For sealing in a damp location all that is needed are standard foam gaskets. Sometimes we use caulk or silicone to prevent a fixture from moving but we never completely apply it at the bottom as this can trap moisture in. For really wet locations we sometimes cut a small gap in the bottom of the foam gasket for this same reason but in your under eave location this won't be necessary.

For the in-use cover I would use a gray plastic Intermatic one, they come in vertical and horizontal. The clear plastic home center versions tend to look like crap, are hard to open and the clear plastic gets hazy in a short time. The solid gray ones are available at electrical supply houses.

 

[Fitter30]

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[Afjes]

Thanks for your honesty in reference to your experience level.
Yes, a degree in electrical engineering does not qualify one to do home electrical work and I am glad that you see that where as many times persons with a degree such as your automatically assume it qualifies them and then they argue when they are given advise but they are at a forum for the advise.

Be that as it may since you know your limits which is very important let's start here from my post. Once you follow this we can take it from there....

The first 90% is that the power originates from the light switch box. The 2nd 10% is that the power originates from the light fixture box.

If you are comfortable enough doing this the first thing you need to do is shut the breaker off that powers this light. The best way to do it is to turn the light on and flip the breaker/s you believe shuts off the power to this circuit. The light goes off you know you have the correct breaker. Do not just shut the switch off without turning off the breaker. Reason is if the power originates from the light fixture box shutting off the switch will still leave the light fixture box "hot".

Pictures of both the light fixture box (with the light out of the box but still connected to the wires) and the switch box with the switch out of the box, wires showing and do not disconnect any wires yet.

Post these pics here and we can go from there.