Goodman 2.5 ton compressor starts erratically.

mikeroc

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History of system. Changed capacitor 2 years ago when compressor would not start. System worked ok last year, this year coil froze. Cousin charged system yesterday took 2.3lb 410a. House is cool but compressor doesn't always start when fan starts. The RCCF Capacitor checked out ok. This is what's happening- Calls for cooling fan starts peak amps 54 but drops to .6 Amps (fan only running). 30 seconds later hear slight buzz amprobe goes to 54 amps then drops to .6 amps. This may happen 2-3 times then then it tries again and compressor starts amprobe reading 7.5 amps cooling now begins. This doesn't happen every cycle intermittent issue. Will an ohm reading across compressor tell me something? Should I ad a SC capacitor for compressor? Is compressor on it's way out? Any thoughts appreciated.
 
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Fitter30

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Compressor is trying to start and going off on internal overload. Can try a two wire hard start they wire across the capacitor common and compressor. Local appliances part or motor house might carry them there are lots of different brands. This if it doesn't start and the units capacitor checks out. Compressor is bad. Capacitors hold voltage after killing power wait ten minutes take a touch the terminals to ground before connecting start kit.
 
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bigb56

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Is there a chance this is happening on short cycling? Is there a compressor delay to prevent short cycling? If it is short cycling it may not be able to start against the high head pressure.
 

mikeroc

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Been off grid with no internet. Thanks for the replies, and will be adding a hard start kit when I get a chance. I will be back with an update when its installed and running. Thanks again..
 

mikeroc

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Installed the hard start kit and ran it for a day. This wasn't the best duration to test out but it seemed ok. Here in the Northeast it may be next year until I truly verify. I don't think it was short cycling. Thanks for all replies..
 

Fitter30

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Installed the hard start kit and ran it for a day. This wasn't the best duration to test out but it seemed ok. Here in the Northeast it may be next year until I truly verify. I don't think it was short cycling. Thanks for all replies..
If name tag list unit at 240vac lowest voltage 216 vac 10% less
 

bigb56

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If name tag list unit at 240vac lowest voltage 216 vac 10% less
I haven't seen any NEMA motors rated at 240V, only 230V and 115V making the range 207-253 and 103.5-126.5 respectively. I believe the NEMA ratings were designed to fit nicely within the Service and Utilization standards but that's just a guess. It also makes some equipment suitable for buildings with 208V (when the equipment is dual rated).

Voltage regulations.jpg
 

Fitter30

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I haven't seen any NEMA motors rated at 240V, only 230V and 115V making the range 207-253 and 103.5-126.5 respectively. I believe the NEMA ratings were designed to fit nicely within the Service and Utilization standards but that's just a guess. It also makes some equipment suitable for buildings with 208V (when the equipment is dual rated).

View attachment 106027
Don't ever remember seeing a NEMA rating on a hermetic or semi hermetic compressor. Only have seen traditional framed motors with that rating.
 
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bigb56

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Aren't the ratings printed on the enclosure nameplate? I don't believe I've ever seen a single phase AC unit that was rated anything other than 115V or 208/230V for the total unit which would include all motors contained within.

I should have said "Nameplate Rating" which is the motor's rating, NEMA is just a standard that motor manufacturers follow by rating their US market equipment to fall within the NEMA standard.
 

Slomoola

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I recommend those 5-2-1 hard start kits. Dropped my electric bill down around 20 bucks per month on a 5 ton compressor. Helped mine start faster and easier. This is what you REALLY need with your erratic start/no-start ups.

That 54 amps is your in-rush current.

Could be you need to clean up the wiring. What I mean is refresh ALL connections in your disconnect box AND your compressor unit. Cutting off corroded copper and going with fresh copper. Keep your fingers off the clean copper. Polish any contactor connections. All electrical connections need looking over. Ridding of all the outdoor corrosion keeps inline resistance back to a new unit. Less resistance while starting up (voltage drop) and so on. Little No-Ox or NO-OX-ID on the copper terminals will keep corrosion away. All of this is about contact resistance reduction.

If your disconnect has fuses, polish the fuse holders AND the fuses with Flitz, Brasso or any metal polish. Disconnect box connections need polished up. Ohm out each fuse. Should read near a direct short.

Every spade terminal needs to be corrosion free. Also you can tighten up spade connections with pliers. If you try to install a wire and it falls easily onto the terminal, she is too loose. Gently crimping or smashing the spade legs will create more of a dragging effect when you put a spade on say a capacitor terminal. When the spade legs are tight, it will scratch the capacitor terminal. Should take some good effort to get those on.

Another tip, get 2 capacitors. One for the fan and the other for your compressor. I stopped using those dual run POS caps. One side or the other seemed to fail about a year later. And make sure they are made in the USA. No Chinese caps at all. My outdoor unit has 3 caps. 5-2-1, compressor and fan.

Another tip, get an HVAC surge protector and wire it inside your disconnect box. Run a couple ground rods with a large copper conductor to Earth ground.

Could be worn out dead contactor connections. New disconnect, contactor, whip wire and such will refresh her.
 
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