Fleck controller keeps running

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ThomasT

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I have had the fleck 5810 sxt based water softener for about 2.5 years. Recently, we start to experience low water pressure once a while. It can be fixed by bypassing the water softener and back. However, the water softener keeps running while regenerating. When I noticed that, I see the display on the controller is fine. It displays about the same amount of water after each regeneration cycle. I attempted to initiate another regeneration cycle by pressing the re-gen button but it didn't respond at all. And, I noticed that the brine tank is empty. It's just keep running. Now, I just put it in bypass.

After reading a few posts, the loss of water pressure is most likely caused by bad resin. But, in my case, is it also the issue? If not, how should I resolve the it? Thanks!
 
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ThomasT

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Update. I can manually advance through a regeneration cycle. However, some step like RR and BF seem not working. In RR, the water is barely moved, not flushing through the drain line. In BF, it's not filling. When the valve is at service position, it keeps generating a flushing sound.
 

Reach4

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I am not a pro. I have one softener.

You have a strange set of symptoms that don't seem explainable with a single failure. If you contact the dealer who sold it, that dealer will want you to buy a rebuild kit -- seals, piston, maybe brine valve. After that, maybe new resin. Depending on the dealer, you can get really helpful reaction, with benefit of the 5 year warranty, or a diagnosis that you should replace all wear parts which are not warrantied.

What is the software version of your circuit board?

I am thinking I would pull the piston, inspect carefully. Then inspect seal pack visually and feeling with finger. If no flaw seen, turn the seal pack around and see if the symptoms change.

You can inspect a sample of the resin. Good resin is like tiny firm spheres. Failed resin would be more mushy.
 

Bannerman

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I suspect your municipality maybe utilizing a high amount of chloramine or chlorine for disinfection which has degraded not only the resin, but also the seals within the valve. Seals can become soft and swollen so the piston will not move easily, which can overwhelm the valve motor while attempting to move the piston between each phase of the regeneration cycle.

In addition to replacing the resin and rebuilding the valve, you may want to investigate the disinfectant being used. For chloramine (chlorine & ammonia), a backwashing filter containing catalytic carbon would be recommended prior to the softener. To remove plain chlorine, although catalytic carbon may also be utilized, granular activated carbon (GAC) will be sufficient and lower in cost.

The minimum size GAC system recommended for a small home is 1.5 ft3, but as chloramine requires greater contact time for removal to occur, 2 ft3 is the usual recommended minimum. With any carbon system, further increasing the media volume will provide greater contact time for contaminants to be fully removed.
 

ThomasT

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I am not a pro. I have one softener.

You have a strange set of symptoms that don't seem explainable with a single failure. If you contact the dealer who sold it, that dealer will want you to buy a rebuild kit -- seals, piston, maybe brine valve. After that, maybe new resin. Depending on the dealer, you can get really helpful reaction, with benefit of the 5 year warranty, or a diagnosis that you should replace all wear parts which are not warrantied.

What is the software version of your circuit board?

I am thinking I would pull the piston, inspect carefully. Then inspect seal pack visually and feeling with finger. If no flaw seen, turn the seal pack around and see if the symptoms change.

You can inspect a sample of the resin. Good resin is like tiny firm spheres. Failed resin would be more mushy.

With the inspection, rebuild kid, resin, and labor, I have a feeling that it would cost at least 1/3 the cost of the softener. :-( However, it's just installed for no more than 3 years.

How can I check the software version of the circuit board?
 

Reach4

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May I presume you have power cycled? If not, do that.

I would ask the dealer. You may get a better response than the bleak worst case one I described. But checking things out first is good.

How can I check the software version of the circuit board?
See the service manual page 14.
Diagnostics.
 

ThomasT

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I guess I found the issue. The piston is broken and stuck in the cage. The piston should be replaced; however, how can I pull out the half of the piston inside the cage?
 

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Water Pro

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I guess I found the issue. The piston is broken and stuck in the cage. The piston should be replaced; however, how can I pull out the half of the piston inside the cage?
the cage (seal and spacer stack) and piston are replaced simultaneously.
 

ThomasT

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It looks like I can't get any piston part nor knowing when it will be available. Starting to suspect the quality of the fleck part? It turns bad in slightly over 2 years?!

Any suggest if I still can't get a part? Replacing a control head? Still fleck is recommended?!
 

ditttohead

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Supply issues have hit most companies, the 5810 has been on backorder for many months. I will call and see if they have an update... but last time I checked they were getting very close to having stock again. The softener valve is almost ready....
 
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