DIY PEX Repipe Manifold and Sizing Question

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larsonist

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Two Questions for a full house Uponor Repipe DIY:

1) With Uponor copper manifold system with valves are there any concerns with the orientation of the manifold so the output/fixture lines go down instead of upward? I’d like to setup an access panel in my utility room for the manifold but I’m trying to prevent it from using up the entire wall as that wall backs a bedroom so I don’t want to lose that wall’s usage for TV mount and picture nail holes for fear of puncturing the line. So instead, if I aim them down I should be able to get everything in within about 3 studs and only use the bottom half of the wall. Any issues with going down instead of up? (Attached screenshot is what I’d like to do but flipping it upside down).

2) When I run my friction loss calculations and fuw (as best I understand them), I’m falling into the 3/4” branch line category but really close to 1”. Since the copper input on the manifold will be 1”, I’m wondering if there is any harm with running 1” PEX from the house entry to the manifold (don’t know the correct terminology for this - “branch line”?). I haven’t confirmed the main water supply pipe size (meter to house) but my meter size is listed by the city as 5/8th, while the back flow preventor’s model number is Febco LF850 1”.


Backstory: I just purchased a house and am planning to repipe all the original galvanized pipe. I’ve purchased the M12 ProPex Expansion tool and will be going with Uponor Pex-A piping and Uponor expansion fittings all the way through with a homerun manifold system. It’s a one story 1400 sqft house. Running lines in the crawl space, but manifold planned to be near water heater in utility room. The distance from the meter to the house is 35’ and an additional 30’ to the water heater (and where the manifold will be located). Longest fixture run from manifold will be about 30’. The pressure at the house entry is 60 psi. My fixture unit count (combined hot/cold) is 29.5 with 13 cold lines, 9 hot. I’m located in WA and my city code is UPC 2015.

I appreciate any help I can get!
 

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Reach4

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1) With Uponor copper manifold system with valves are there any concerns with the orientation of the manifold so the output/fixture lines go down instead of upward?
No.
2. Since the copper input on the manifold will be 1”, I’m wondering if there is any harm with running 1” PEX from the house entry to the manifold (don’t know the correct terminology for this - “branch line”?).
No. Note that pressure drops add, rather than being determined by the smallest diameter.
 

larsonist

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Thanks Reach4 for the quick response! Just to try and better understand your note on the second answer. I'm very uneducated when it comes to these things, so my question is legitimately for the sake of self-education and understanding.

Are you saying that water pressure drops are added up the further along they go and face more and more resistance (elevation, 90 degree bends, fittings, inside tubing friction) and so the smallest diameter of the pipe isn't as concerning? I noticed in my attempted calculations with the Uponor supplied calculator it seemed my friction loss rate was significantly higher than much longer runs (50psi/100ft). It also seems to suggest I need 1 1/4" pipe which seems like overkill based on everything I've been reading?

(Attached is the Uponor Water Sizing Calculations).
 

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Reach4

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I don't really understand aspects of the Uponor calculations, but I think your first picture is for 1/2 inch PEX rather than 3/4 or 1 inch. You would probably never use more than 10 gpm for the house after the outdoor spigots branch off.

http://www.pressure-drop.com/Online-Calculator/ Note that this calculator uses actual ID rather than the nominal ID.
 

larsonist

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3/4" hot to the manifold and 1" for the cold.

The meter doesn't slow things down, it's the piping after the meter.

ipc_water_size_50.jpg
Thanks Terry, I appreciate it. I've looked at this table before and just haven't known if I'm looking at it correctly.

So does this pass the sniff test: I'll plan on running 1" from the house entry/foundation wall to the cold manifold; add a 3/4" tee before it gets to the cold and run that 3/4" to the hot water heater and continue the 1" to the cold manifold, then 3/4" output for hot from the water heater to the manifold. Then all manifold outputs will run to one fixture each and will be 1/2".

I have 2 bath, typical kitchen appliances, 1 utility sink, washer, and a total of 3 hose bibbs (and a sprinkler system for .33 acre lot tied in).
 
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Reach4

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Any provision for a water softener or whole-house sediment filter?

Run the outdoor spigot water with water before the filter/softener.
 

larsonist

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Any provision for a water softener or whole-house sediment filter?

Run the outdoor spigot water with water before the filter/softener.
I've lived in the area for quite awhile and haven't heard anybody mention needing softeners or sediment filters, but maybe I'll do some asking around to make sure I'm not overlooking something there! I'm on city water if that matters. I was planning on running the spigots through the manifold so I could turn them off during the winter, but maybe I should consider splitting them off before the manifold? I'm a deer in headlights when it comes to how the outdoor spigots tie in, especially with also having a sprinkler system which is tied in there as well.
 

larsonist

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If your're like most of us here in the Seattle/Tacoma area you pull your water from the meter and don't give it a second thought.
Haha, that's true. Although to my defense I'm a first time home owner, so EVERYTHING about home ownership is new ground for me. I'm excited to learn as much as I can in the process, but doing a complete plumbing re-pipe (drain, vents, pipes) and electrical re-wire within the first couple months of home ownership has been a bold way to learn everything about the house!
 
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