Delta Kitchen Faucet Clunks -- Then Refuses to Give Water. Whazzup?

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Is this a new automatic super WaterSense faucet?

I have a regular Delta single handle kitchen faucet, no more than 5 years old.
It was a warranty replacement for a prior higher quality Delta faucet.

Quite suddenly, the new one refused to work. If you use it at low flow it's fine.
If the flow rises above some level there's a distinct CLUNK from the cartridge and locks up. No flow.

Rest it 15 - 20 minutes, and it works again as above.

Removing the cold and hot supply lines does not change anything. When working, water will flow out the disconnected side as normal. Removing pressure does not "reset" the faucet.


What could be up?

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Breplum

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Have Delta get involved. They will send you a cartridge under warranty if not a piping problem.
Do you have copper pipes?
If galv. pipes, likely you have a piece of rust caught somewhere.
 

Sylvan

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Have Delta get involved. They will send you a cartridge under warranty if not a piping problem.
Do you have copper pipes?
If galv. pipes, likely you have a piece of rust caught somewhere.
Why can’t a Delta faucet have sediment from the water supply and not be because of galvanized
 
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Have Delta get involved. They will send you a cartridge under warranty if not a piping problem.
Do you have copper pipes? If galv. pipes, likely you have a piece of rust caught somewhere.

There's never been any sediment in any of the various screens and aerators in this home.
It is 100% copper pipes.

I took the cartridge out, then apart. It was clean through and through.
I cleaned it anyway.
Returning it, same problem.... too much flow and it make a big CLUNK stays off no matter the handle position.

The cartridge only has the NSF 61/9 marking and a date. How can I get the model number?
Delta's website is not at ALL clear on replacement parts.


Is it possible to find a compatible that has a more gentle on time? Higher quality? This one always sucked in that you can get slow stream of water only
by very carefully jiggling the handle to barely turn it on.

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Helper Dave

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Sounds like a low pressure problem. If no clogs in the faucet, have you tried putting a braided supply on the stops, and turning them on (pointed into a bucket)?

The clog could be in the valve there, or further down the line.
 
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OP here.
There IS NO CLOG.

There is a sprayer. Removing it makes no difference.
Water pressure is great.
With the cartridge removed, and a bucket over the faucet, turning the stops results in a geyser from hot and cold respectively.


At low flow it works.
The moment flow gets to high there is a big water hammery clunk and the water stops.
It restarts after a while or if fiddled with.

EVERYTHING has been torn apart and cleaned, and there was no debris or bad biofilm anywhere.



---
Turns out it's actually a Phister 133-1088 . They're sending a new cartridge under warranty. But I still want to know how this can possibly fail in this manner.
 
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Reach4

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Review post #2-- especially sentence one.
 

Reach4

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Update: Phister, under their Pforever Warranty® which requires proof of purchase,
is sending a new cartridge out.

I'm sill curious HOW the cartridge could be defective in this way.
I would think you would have discussed the symptoms with them, and they suggested a new cartridge. So in that case, they thought it was a possible cure. I don't propose a mechanism for creating your symptoms.
 
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I would think you would have discussed the symptoms with them, and they suggested a new cartridge. So in that case, they thought it was a possible cure. I don't propose a mechanism for creating your symptoms.

Update #2 from OP:
They suggested the cause could be the spray arm, but removing it showed no diff.
So they sent a new cartridge.
It made no difference.

If you sllloooowwwlllyyy turn on the water it works. Go too fast and you hear and feel a distinct clunk and the water shuts off.
 

ItzRav

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I wasn’t sure what you meant when you said “Removing the cold and hot supply lines does not change anything.” At any rate, is it possible your supply line(s) from the shutoff valves to the faucet are those flood-safe types? For example, Watts makes a FloodSafe connector with a built-in shutoff valve that triggers when the pressure gets too high. It could be defective, or perhaps your pressure is so high that that’s triggering it. (Have you checked your water pressure to see if it’s too high?). Perhaps try a different supply line that’s definitely not a flood-safe type.
 
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